Fall color hikes abound in Duluth, MN, area

Congdon Park, Duluth

There’s no better way

to experience autumn colors in the Duluth

area than a hike.

The brilliant yellows, oranges and red of maples to the scarlet

and russets of oaks...

the crisp, fresh autumn air and the last warm rays of sunlight before winter arrives...the crunch of fallen leaves and acorns beneath your boots...stopping to enjoy a warm mug of apple cider or a caramel apple pulled from your backpack – it all calls for an afternoon on the trail.

Fortunately, there are plenty of great autumn trails around Duluth to hike. Some are right out your back door, while some are a day trip that you can do in an afternoon.

Congdon Park (Duluth)
Autumn leaves alongside billion-year-old rock and a creek sporting several small waterfalls await at Congdon Park in Duluth. The 1.2-mile (one-way) Congdon Park Trail follows Tischer Creek, as it makes its way down the bluffs toward Lake Superior. The orange of maple with the yellow of birch and the gorge’s red walls feels like you’re walking through a rainbow. In Duluth, park in the lot for Mount Royal Market at the corner of Woodland Avenue and East St. Marie Street. Walk East St. Marie Street east, entering the park at the junction with Vermillion Road.

Chester Creek Loop (Duluth)
A pair of picturesque waterfalls, footbridges, and a walk alongside Chester Creek await hikers on the Chester Park Loop in Duluth. Located near the near the University of Minnesota-Duluth campus, the 2.4-mile trail is particularly beautiful in autumn when the golden bronze of maple and basswood leaves form a canopy over the path and float upon the creek. In Duluth from West College Street take North 19th Avenue E southeast. Turn right/west onto W. Kent Road, then right/west onto East Skyline Parkway after the curve right/northwest onto Chester Park Drive. Park off the road then walk back alongside it to East Skyline Parkway and cross the bridge to the trailhead.

Superior Municipal Forest (Superior)
A boreal forest may not seem like the best place to enjoy autumn leaves. The Superior Municipal Forest, however, delivers, with its extensive growth of gold-leafed white birch and aspen amid evergreen white and red pine, balsam, cedar, and black spruce. A 1.6-mile segment of the Millennium Trail winds through the woods. In Superior, at the 28th Street and Wyoming Avenue intersection, turn south to the municipal parking lot. The trail goes both east and west; skip the eastern side, which leads to multiple railroad tracks in Superior’s industrial section.

Jay Cooke State Park (Carlton)
Day hikers can cross a swinging bridge above a raging river running over nearly 2 billion-year old rock then enjoy incredible autumn colors at Jay Cooke State Park. The 1.5-mile round trip East Ridge Trail crosses and then partially follows the St. Louis River southeast of Duluth. A new $1.1 million swinging bridge opened in 2013. To the delight of most kids (and adults), the 219-foot pedestrian bridge bounces and sways. The rest of the trail heads through a hardwood forest whose green in summer rivals that of Oz’s Emerald City. The leaves turn an impressive array of yellows, reds and oranges as autumn sets in. From Interstate 35 take the exit for Minn. Hwy. 210, driving east through Carlton. The park is about five miles from the freeway. Turn right/south at the River Inn Visitor Center and park in the lot nearest the river.

Gooseberry Falls State Park (Two Harbors)
Golden aspen and birch leaves mixed with evergreens surround waterfalls and an agate beach at Gooseberry Falls State Park. The 1.8-mile round trip River View Trail runs through the heart of what many consider to be the most beautiful park on the North Shore, if not the entire state. From Two Harbors, take Minn. Hwy. 61 north. Turn right/east into the park, leaving your vehicle in the first lot. Take the connector trail northeast to a walkway, on which you’ll go left/north.

Bear Beach State Natural Area (Brule, Wis.)
A walk along a pristine sand beach awaits day hikers of the Lake Superior shoreline in the Bear Beach State Natural Area. The unmarked trail runs for up to 3.4-miles round trip along narrow Bear Beach. Hiking the beach, you’ll get a good sense of what this area of the world looked like before Euro-Americans settled it. A thick woods hugs the sand’s southern side while the lake stretches wide beyond to the north. Though the forest this far north is heavy on the evergreens – especially balsam fir, white pine and white spruce – but in autumn the yellowed-colored leaves of paper birch and trembling aspen and the spring green of speckled alder are well-represented. From Brule, take U.S. Hwy. 2 west. In Maple, turn north onto County Road F. Next, go left/west onto Wis. Hwy. 13 then right/north onto Beck’s Road. Park in the dirt lot at the end of Beck’s Road near the Lake Superior shore.

Laurentian Divide Recreation Area (Virginia)
Orange and various hues of yellow and red leaves await hikers at the Laurentian Divide Recreation Area in Superior National Forest. About 5 miles of various connecting trails lead to the top of the rec area’s Lookout Mountain, which offers a fantastic vista. Fun fact: Streams on the divide’s north slope head to Canada and drain to Hudson Bay while those on south slope flow into either Lake Superior or the Mississippi River. From Virginia, take U.S. Hwy. 53 north. The rec area is on the right/east.

Sturgeon River Trail, Superior National Forest (Hibbing-Chisholm)
An aspen and birch forest awaits along the Sturgeon River in Superior National Forest. The 2.5-mile round trip segment of the Sturgeon River Trail heads through the second-growth forest as well as a stand of stately pines. From Hibbing-Chisholm, head north on Minn. Hwy. 73. Turn left/west onto County Road 65. Look for a large parking on the road’s right/north side in about 1.2 miles. Take the trail northwest to a shelter.

Bear Lake State Park (Ely)
A forest of yellow birch and aspen surround three glacial lakes at Bear Head Lake State Park. A 2.8-mile loop heads through the woods and around the scenic lakes. Stands of orange tamarack and green red and white pines, fir and cedar offer accent colors to the autumn display. From Ely, take Minn. Hwy. 1 west. Turn south onto County Road 128, aka as Bear Head State Park Road. Upon entering the park, stay on County Road 128 and turn right/south into the Norberg Lake parking lot. From the lot, take the trail heading east.

Tettegouche State Park (Silver Bay)
A hike though an amber-leaved birch and aspen forest that ends with an incredible view of Lake Superior awaits at Tettegouche State Park. The 1.1-mile round trip Shovel Point Trail is fairly flat as it runs atop billion-year-old rock. Throughout autumn, birds migrating south past the point. From Silver Bay, drive north on Minn. Hwy. 61. After crossing the Baptism River, turn right/southeast into the park entrance. Go straight on the park entrance road and veer left into the northernmost lot. From the lot’s southeastern corner, pick up the interpretive trail that heads toward Lake Superior.

Hiking guide to Gooseberry Falls now out

My latest hiking guidebook, Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park, was released Wednesday. Detailing more than 30 trails on Minnesota’s North Shore, the book focuses on those at Gooseberry Falls while including several south of the park to Two Harbors and those north to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park.

Minnesota’s second most visited state park, Gooseberry Falls is famous for its five waterfalls that tumble over billion-year-old rock, grand Lake Superior vistas, and historic CCC buildings constructed during the Great Depression. The famous Superior Hiking Trail and the Gitchi Gami State Bike Trail both cut through the park.

Part of the “Hittin’ the Trail” series, the title marks my 17th hiking guidebook. It is available for purchase online in paperback or Kindle ebook.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Gooseberry Falls offers variety of great trails

Vista of Gooseberry River flowing into Lake Superior.

Imagine a place where five waterfalls spill over billion-year-old rock, where both incredible vistas of the world’s largest freshwater lake and paths pass an array of sweet-scented wildflowers, where you can traipse through historic handcrafted stone buildings or alongside a creek meandering about an evergreen forest.

The place is real: It’s called Gooseberry Falls State Park. Many consider the crown jewel of Minnesota’s multitude of natural gems.

Located along the North Shore about 30 miles northeast of Duluth, Gooseberry Falls is an outdoor recreational paradise. Minnesota’s second most visited state park, it’s popular among hikers, campers and nature lovers of all stripes. With about 630,000 annual visitors, more people visit Gooseberry Falls than half of all national parks.

Some great trails to hike in Gooseberry Falls include:
• Waterfalls
• Lake Superior vista
• Wildflowers
• Historic CCC buildings
• Forest stream

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park.

Great trails surround Gooseberry Falls

Lake Superior vista from Silver Creek Cliff Wayside Trail.

While Minnesota’s popular Gooseberry Falls State Park offers plenty of trails to explore for more than a few days, there are a number of great sights nearby that bear visiting.

The majority of them stretch between Two Harbors and the state park. Among the highlights are inspiring vistas of Lake Superior, agate-laden beaches, and modern harbors. The trails include:
• Silver Creek Cliff Wayside Trail
• Flood Bay Beach Trail
• Lighthouse Point Trail

Several great hiking trails also can be found north of Gooseberry Falls on the short stretch to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park. The sights include a beach of pink rock, trails winding through rare giant tufts of Arctic lichen, and a red rock gorge. Those trails are:
• Iona’s Beach Trail
• Superior Hiking Trail, Blueberry Hill Road to Split Rock River Valley segment
• Split Rock River Trail

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Gooseberry Falls boasts three unique parts

Middle Falls, River View Trail.

Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park largely can be divided into three distinct areas, each offering its own unique flavor.

The most popular section of the park is south of the Gooseberry River, where trails leading to the waterfalls, the visitor center, and the campground are located. Trails there include:
• River View Trail
• Picnic Flow Trail
• CCC Buildings Trail

Less visited is the section north of the river and east of Minn. Hwy. 61, which has only two walking paths but great views of Lake Superior and historic structures. Those two trails are:
• Gitchi Gummi Trail
• Gitchi-Gami Trail (bicycle trail)

Visitors can find solitude in the section west of Hwy. 61, in which a number of trails heads into the highlands overlooking Lake Superior. A couple of great trails in this section are:
• Fifth Falls Trail
• Superior Hiking Trail
• Nelsens Creek Trail

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Diverse landscapes await on GFSP trails

Lower Falls at Gooseberry Falls State Park. Photo by Kieran Bignell.

Most visitors to Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park go to see the fantastic set of waterfalls that are within a few hundred yards of one another. But there are more landscapes and ecosystems to see at the park than those around the waterfalls.

Indeed, three general landscapes dominate the picturesque park.

The first is the shoreline with Lake Superior that largely runs south of Minn. Hwy. 61. Outcroppings of the ancient 1.1-billion-year-old basalt are common just above the waterline. The Picnic Flow Trail is an excellent route to explore the park’s shoreline.

The second zone consists of the highlands rising sharply above the shore, mainly north of Hwy. 61. A variety of trees grow along the hills as the elevation changes, resulting in a range of micro ecosystems. The Superior Hiking Trail heads into and atop those highlands in the park.

A third zone is the Gooseberry River itself, which forms a gorge cutting through the hills and then flows in a shallow cut through the shoreline area. Rather than replicate the surrounding hills or shoreline, the river with its five waterfalls creates its own unique environment for plants. Two good trails to discover all the river has to offer is the Gooseberry River Trail and the River View Trail, the latter of which heads to the park’s iconic waterfalls.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Trails unveil Gooseberry Falls area history

Among the historic sights to see at Minnesota's
Gooseberry Falls State Park are handcrafted stone
buildings, including the Lakeview Shelter. Photo
courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

Most people visit Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park for its fantastic set of waterfalls. But a number of trails also explore the park’s intriguing history.

Native Americans, including the Cree, Dakotah and Ojibwe, have long resided in what is now the state park. Gooseberry River naturally attracted a variety of game and offered a good spot to fish.

French explorers Médard Chouart des Groseilliers (The anglization of his name, “Mr. Gooseberry,” appears in English texts of the time.) and Pierre-Esprit Radisson were the first Europeans to pass the area in the mid 1600s. They clained the region for France, which lost it to the British in 1763. The burgeoning United States won the territory in 1783.

More than another century would pass, though, before American pioneers began to harness the North Shore’s great resources. Most notably for what is now Gooseberry Falls State Park, in 1900 the Nestor Logging Co. set up its headquarters at the mouth of the Gooseberry River and built a railroad – the Nestor Grade – to remove the vast white pine forest stretching across the Arrowhead. Most of the logs were rafted over Lake Superior to sawmills in Wisconsin and Michigan. By the 1920s, though, the white pine forests were gone. Signs of that logging era can be found on the River View Trail.

Despite the barren landscape, North Shore residents hoped tourism would make up for the collapsed logging industry. Their efforts paid off, and by 1933 the state voted to preserve the area making up the state park. The Civilian Conservation Corps built roads, trails, a campground, a picnic area, and a visitor center; the structures are notable for their use of red, blue, brown and black basalt in the construction. In 1937, the state park was established. Many of the beautiful, handcrafted stone buildings erected by the CCC can be seen on the CCC Buildings Trail.

The park was named for the river, but the origin of the waterway’s name remains somewhat unclear. Some say the riverway was named for des Groseilliers while others believe it’s a translation of the Ojibwe word Shab-on-im-i-kan-i-sibi, the gooseberry plant that grows along the riverbanks. Those berry bushes can be seen on the Gooseberry River Trail.

Today, the park stands at 1,682 acres in size. In addition to the waterfalls, Lake Superior scenery, and CCC buildings, the Joseph N. Alexander Visitor Center, erected in 1996, also is a draw; among its most popular interpretive displays is that of the dire wolf, a freakishly large stuffed male wolf that died in the area during 1991.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Historic CCC buildings abound on day hike

Lady Slipper Lodge, a CCC-constructed building at Gooseberry Falls
State Park in Minnesota. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Map of CCC Buildings Trail, courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

More than 80
stone structures
can be found in
Minnesota park

Several impressive historic buildings constructed by the Depression-era Civilian Conservation Corps await in the state park.

The 0.9-mile looping CCC Buildings Trail is not an official park trail but a combination of trail segments and park roads that pass several prominent CCC structures. Among them are a “lodge,” shelters, an ice house, a water tower, and a pump house.

More than 80 handcrafted stone buildings, structures and objects – all built between 1934 and 1941 – can be found at Gooseberry Falls. Known architecturally as the CCC/Rustic Style, the Minnesota Historical Society notes that "This stonework is the most visually distinctive masonry construction in the state park system." Italian stonemasons supervised the work.

The CCC consisted of unemployed young men who worked on several improvement projects across the nation during the Great Depression. Each man was paid $30 per month, much of which was sent back home to help their families.

Campground cluster
To reach the trailhead, from Two Harbors drive north on Minn. Hwy. 61, turning into the park at its rest area/visitor center. Rather than park at the lots here, continue south on the entry road to the picnic area parking lot near the campgrounds.

From the lot’s east side, take the middle footpath to the campground, walking down the road between campsites 62 and 63. At the next road intersection, go right/west, following the pavement.

A parking lot is on the west side; across from it, take the footpath on the road’s east side to the first CCC structure, the Campground Shelter. Built in 1937-38, the Campground Shelter originally was a combination laundry and utility room. It since has been converted to a shelter.

Return to the campground road, then go right/northwest. After passing the next two roads leading to campsites, take the footpath going left/west to the Ice House. Among the last buildings constructed in 1940-41, the Ice House once was an important part of the camping trip but with modern gear and refrigeration is obsolete.

Upon returning to the campground road, go left/north. At the second road intersection, go left/west onto it. Follow it around to near Campsite 17. A footpath leads to the Water Tower. Among the first CCC structures built in the park, the stonework surrounds a 10,000-gallon tank.

Back on the campground road, head left/northeast. Take the next foot trail left/north to the Lady Slipper Lodge. Containing a fireplace and benches, the shelter gives the feeling of a true Northwoods cabin. It was the first building that the CCC erected, in 1935, as a kitchen shelter.

Lake views
Continue to the other side of the shelter and pick up the park entry road. Go right/southeast onto it. Then take the footpath running left/northeast to the Lake View Shelter. Sitting on a hill overlooking Lake Superior, the log and stone building opened in 1936. It has picnic tables and modern restrooms.

Directly northeast of the shelter is the Pump House. Built in 1940, the campground used it to draw water from Lake Superior.

Looking across the Gooseberry River, you should be able to spot the Lookout Shelter. Opening in 1936, it can be seen up close on via the Gitchi Gummi Trail.

From the Pump House, retrace your steps back to the Lake View Shelter. A footpath runs southwest back to the parking lot where you began.

There are several other CCC structures in the park that are worth seeing. Most notable among them is the Castle in the Park, a retaining wall that can be seen via the Gitchi-Gami State Trail; the CCC Worker statue on the Gateway Plaza atop the retaining wall pays homage to those who built those who served here. A trail shelter is on the Gitchi Gummi Trail, which includes a switchback staircase. The Falls View Shelter can be seen on the Nelsens Creek Trail near Upper Falls.

Learn more about nearby day hiking trails in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Discover North Shore geology on park trails

The Gooseberry River tumbles over 1.1- billion-year-old basalt.

Among the best ways to learn about the geology of Minnesota’s popular North Shore are day hiking trails at Gooseberry Falls State Park.

The park provides opportunities to explore the effects of billion-year-old lava flows and the more recent ice age of only 10,000 years ago.

With more than 630,000 annual visitors, Gooseberry Falls is Minnesota’ second most visited state park. More people visit Gooseberry Falls than half of all national parks. To reach the park, from Two Harbors, Minn., drive north about 13 miles on Minn. Hwy. 61.

Billion-year-old lava flows
Gooseberry Falls’ major sites wouldn’t exist but for 1.1 billion-year-old lava flows that formed when North America began to separate into two, forming what today is called the Mid-Continent Rift. The rift extends all across the Great Lakes to as far south as Kansas. In Minnesota, those volcanic flows along Lake Superior are known as the North Shore Volcanic Group. With lava flows occurring over millions of years, they can run up to 30,000 feet in the region. Locally, the basalt rocks that create the park’s waterfalls are referred to as the Gooseberry Lavas. Great trails to see those lava flows include:
• River View Trail
• Picnic Flow Trail

Ice age
Fast forward to 10,000 A.D. After eons of being buried by sediment, the great glaciers of the last ice age had scraped off most of the terrain, leaving only the basalt and a thin layer of till over it. Cold Lake Superior is merely what remains of a melted glacier in a low spot of the Precambrian rift, and the rivers along the North Shore are carving through the remaining till and sediment often reaching the underlying basalt. A good trail to see the effects of the last ice age is:
• Nelsens Creek Trail (clay of Glacial Lake Duluth)

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Trail maps for Gooseberry Falls State Park

No one ever should go hiking without a map. Here are maps for nine trails in Gooseberry Falls State Park, Minnesota’s second most visted state park.

Located on Minnesota’s scenic North Shore, Gooseberry Falls offers a number of great sights, including five waterfalls, 1.1-billion-year-old rock, grand vistas of the world’s largest freshwater lake, an agate beach, and more.

To reach the park, from Two Harbors drive north on Minn. Hwy. 61. Turn right/southeast into the the Goosberry Falls rest area and visitor parking. Almost all of the park’s trails can be reached from this location.

Trails are marked in yellow on the maps. Click each map or open it a new window for a larger, printable version.

River View Trail

Picnic Flow Trail

Gitchi Gami Bike Trail

Gitchi-Gummi Trail

Fifth Falls Trail

Gooseberry River Trail

Superior Hiking Trail

Nelsens Creek Trail

High Point Trail

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Trail heads to Gooseberry’s highest point

High Point Trail (click for a larger version)

Day hikers can head to the highest point in Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park on the High Point Trail.

The 2.9-miles round trip trail rambles into the highlands overlooking Lake Superior after passing a number of the park’s top sights, including two waterfalls and Nelsens Creek. Note that the name given to the trail here is not official but provided for easy reference.

To reach the park, from Two Harbors travel north on Minn. Hwy. 61. Leave your vehicle at the rest area or visitor center lots.

From the parking lot, head north past the visitor center. At the first fork in the paved path, go left/northeast. The next junction overlooks Middle Falls; go left/northwest there and cross the walking bridge over the Gooseberry River at Hwy. 61. Head under the highway and pass Upper Falls along the river.

Upon reaching the Superior Hiking Trail, go right/south. The crowds thin considerably at this point, as few day hikers venture this far, and when they do, they're usually going in the opposite direction on the SHT to Fifth Falls.

The trail next swerves around the backside of a hill summit, which rises to about 880 feet. At that hill's northeast corner, you’ll come to another trail junction. Stay on the Superior Hiking Trail and cross Nelsens Creek.

On the creek’s other side, leave the Superior Hiking Trail by going right/southeast. At the very next trail junction, go left/northeast.

The trail is fairly flat at first but upon making a U, it climbs in elevation. As gaining in elevation throughout the trail, you’ll notice that a variety of trees make up the heavy forested area. Aspen, birch, cedar and white pine dominate the highlands in the southern part of Minnesota’s North Shore.

At the next trail junction, go left/right. This will take you to an overlook with a trail shelter. The elevation here is just a little over 900 feet, or about 300 feet above Lake Superior.

Upon taking in the view, retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Search for gooseberries on riverside trail

Gooseberry bush ripening in early summer. Photo courtesy of University
of Minnesota Extension.

Map of Gooseberry River Trail, courtesy Minnesota DNR.

Minnesota
waterway named
for red berry 

Day hikers can discover the berries that a major waterway feeding Lake Superior was named for on the Gooseberry River Trail in Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park.

The 3.9–mile round trip trail heads deep into the state park’s northwest corner. (Note: The Gooseberry River Trail is not the official name of trail but is used here for convenience’s sake.) While you won’t be out of sight of other people on the first leg of the hike, after a quarter of the way through, you’ll largely walk in solitude except for songbirds and the gurgling river.

To Fifth Falls
To reach the trailhead, from Two Harbors heads north on Minn. Hwy. 61. Turn right/east into the park’s main entry and use Gooseberry Falls’ main parking lot.

From the main parking lot, walk northeast past the visitor center. At the first T-intersection, go left/north toward Upper Falls. Cross the bridge over the Gooseberry River and continue north along the waterway’s east bank past Upper Falls.

This part of the route, which is shared with the Superior Hiking Trail, is wider and generally better maintained than the route on the opposite shore. It offers views of both Upper Falls and the river’s fourth waterfalls.

Where the Superior Hiking Trail heads west across the river, go briefly onto the bridge for a view of Fifth Falls. With a 15-foot drop over ancient volcanic rock, Fifth Falls is most impressive in spring when water levels are higher from the snow melt. Autumn offers a chance to see more of the rock formations and potholes, however. You can continue north past the bridge to the falls and explore the rocks up close, but be careful of wet stone, which can be slippery.

Upstream of Fifth Falls
Return to the trail on the river’s east bank and head north west along the river. In 0.5 miles, you’ll reach a trail junction. Go left/northwest to continue along the river.

Upstream of Fifth Falls, the river flows over gravel that was left here about 10,000 years ago at the end of the last ice age. This glacial till is being washed out of the highlands into Lake Superior. The river water comes almost entirely from runoff, so its flow will be heaviest in spring as snow melts.

Along the shorelines, look for gooseberry shrubs, which prefer moist, uphill locations. They have pale green, leaves and thorn-covered stems and grow up to five feet high. Their round berry grows red and when ripe – usually in July and August – turns burgundy.

In a little more than a half-mile from the junction, the trail loops inland, away from the river. About 0.2 miles later, it reaches another trail intersection; go right/south. You gradually will head downhill. In about a half-mile, the trail reaches the junction just above Fifth Falls; go left/southeast and retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Gitchi Gami State Trail offers variety of experiences in Gooseberry Falls State Park

Gateway Plaza. Photo courtesy of  Minnesota DNR.

Map of Gitchi Gami State Trail, courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

Day hikers can enjoy a quiet walk through the woods, see two waterfalls, and learn about the area’s geology and history on a segment of Gitchi Gami State Trail at Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park.

Primarily a bicycle trail, the paved route can be hiked as well. When completed, the trail will run 88-miles from Two Harbors to Grand Marais. A 2.5-mile section is open in Gooseberry Falls, though, and a 4-mile round trip section of the trail makes for a great day hike.

To reach the trailhead, from Two Harbors, drive north on Minn. Hwy. 61. Enter Gooseberry Falls State Park, staying right on the park road, driving to the lower level parking lot at the campground. The trailhead is on the lot’s east-central side.

From there, the trail curves southwest, heading through a quiet, largely wooded area, though with the path’s width you’ll still need a sunhat or sunscreen. In about 1.2 miles, it turns northeast, crossing the park entry road.

The trail next passes the Gateway Plaza, which is worth a stop. Sitting atop a 300-foot long retaining wall, known as the Castle in the Park, the plaza includes interpretive signs about the park’s geology and history. The retaining wall is the Civilian Conservation Corps’ largest building project in Minnesota.

From the plaza, the Gitchi Gami cross the Gooseberry River with a view of Middle and Lower Falls downstream. The trail then parallels Hwy. 61 northeast through the rest of the park.

At two miles from the parking lot, the trail crosses Nelsens Creek. Flowing out of the hills overlooking Lake Superior, the creek’s shoreline support a colorful array of wildflowers.

The creek marks a good spot to turn back. Alternately, you can continue on; Beaver Bay is a little more than 14 miles away.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Trail passes three falls in Gooseberry SP

Map for Fifth Falls Trail. Click on map for larger version.

Fifth Falls loop
offers quiet
from crowds

Day hikers can enjoy a riverside walk to a little seen waterfalls on the Fifth Falls Trail at Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park.

Though not as high or as wide as the other Upper and Middle falls, Fifth Falls is still impressive, especially during autumn. The looping trail runs 2.4–miles round trip.

To reach the trailhead, from Two Harbors, drive north on Minn. Hwy. 61, turning into the Gooseberry Falls Wayside (near mile marker 39) and park. Walk northeast past the visitor center. At the first T-intersection, go left/north toward Upper Falls. Along the way, watch for and follow signs pointing to the Fifth Falls Snowshoe Trail.

At the Hwy. 61 bridge over the Gooseberry River, continue north along the waterway’s west bank past Upper Falls. This waterfalls is about 0.2 miles from the trailhead.

West bank
After passing Upper Falls, the crowd thins considerably. Most park visitors stick to the lower three falls clustered near the visitor center, but there’s plenty to see on the way to Fifth Falls.

Gooseberry River’s west side definitely is the rougher of the two banks. After crossing a floodplain, the trail climbs up a steep bank. The upside: A lot of ledges along the riverbank prove fun to explore, especially for any kids accompanying you.

After passing a horseshoe bend north of Upper Falls, the trail comes to a bridge crossing the river. Stepping onto the bridge offers good views. Once taking in the sights, stay on the river’s west bank continuing straight/south.

Following a smaller horseshoe bend, the river and trail head primarily north to northwest. You’ll pass a tiny waterfalls, the fourth on the river (Of the Gooseberry River’s five waterfalls, this hike skips Lower and Middle Falls, the two closest to Lake Superior).

Fifth Falls
At the junction with the Superior Hiking Trail, go right/east. This takes you to a bridge over the river, about 1.1 miles from the trailhead, and delivers a great view of Fifth Falls, which is upstream.

With a 15-foot drop over ancient volcanic rock, Fifth Falls is most impressive in spring when water levels are higher from the snow melt. Autumn offers a chance to see more of the rock formations and potholes, however. You can continue north past the bridge to the falls and explore the rocks up close, but be careful of any wet stones, which can be slippery.

Once across the bridge to the Gooseberry River’s east bank, turn right/south/east. This takes you down the river, as it makes its way toward Lake Superior. This part of the route, which is shared with the Superior Hiking Trail, is wider and generally better maintained than what you walked up on the opposite shore. It also offers another view of both the river’s fourth waterfalls and Upper Falls.

At the Hwy. 61 bridge, which is 2.2 miles from the trailhead, take the walkway back to the Gooseberry River’s east shore. Retrace your steps to the visitor center and parking lot.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

CCC structures, lake vista awaits on loop

Cliff vista overlooking Lake Superior, mouth of
Gooseberry River, and Agate Beach.
Photo courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

Map of Gitchi Gummi Trail, courtesy Minnesota DNR.

Gitchi Gummi Trail heads
to quieter portion of popular
Minnesota state park

Historic buildings and views of Lake Superior from 100-foot cliffs await day hikers on the Gitchi Gummi Trail in Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park.

The trail marks a good route for getting away from the crowds at this popular park. The 2-miles round trip lollipop trail is mostly level, too.

Don't confuse this route, though, with the Gitchi-Gami Trail, which is a bicycle path that can be hiked. The Gitchi Gummi is strictly a walking trail. Its name comes from Longfellow’s poem “Song of Hiawatha,” which notes the shoreline of “Gitchi Gummi” (pronounced goo-me).

To reach the trailhead, from Two Harbors, drive north on Minn. Hwy. 61. Use the parking lot for the waterfalls. From there, hike to the visitor center, which is a good place to stop for picking up water and taking a bathroom break before heading out.

Past the center, when the trail comes to a T-intersection, go left/north rather than to Middle and Lower Falls. You’ll still get a great view of Middle Falls along the walk.

Next, the trail heads over Gooseberry River via a platform attached to the bottom of the Hwy. 61 bridge. Once across the bridge, go right/southeast. In this area, you’ll pass the junction for the Gitchi-Gami Trail; watch for signs pointing to the Gitchi Gummi Snowshoe Trail.

Historic structures
Heading away from the bridge, the trail is wide. You’ll notice small chunks of basalt mixed in the gravel surface. The weathered volcanic rock has been here for 1.1 billion years.

Growing out of this are a variety of trees common to the North Shore – spruce, paper birch, young aspen, and a few white pine. A number of wildflowers – blue bead lily, bunchberry, Canadian mayflower, dewberry, starflower, and wood anemones – bloom here each spring.

At 0.4 miles from the trailhead, you’ll reach the actual loop. The Civilian Conservation Corps erected the stone walls here that mark the loop’s start. During the Great Depression, the CCC built most of the trails and buildings seen in the park today. At the loop’s start, continue straight/east so that you walk the trail counterclockwise.

As approaching Lake Superior, you’ll notice larger chunks of basalt along the trail. This part of the route is on a south-facing slope, which in spring and fall receives more sunshine than those facing the other three compass directions, meaning more freeze-thaw cycles. This process, known as frost wedging, causes exposed rock to break off more quickly, resulting in chunks appropriately known as kibbles and bits.

Good views of the Gooseberry River and its estuary can be found in this section of the trail. Red and white pines dominate.

100-foot cliffs
Part of the trail here also consists of planks over a grassy area that can grow swampy. Birch, spruce and pines favor this wetter section; in mid-summer, blooming wild roses along the trail fills the air with a sweet fragrance.

Full views of the lake come into sight at 0.8 miles in, as you reach a stone shelter, also built by the CCC. There are good vistas of the sand gravel bar at the river’s mouth with Agate Beach on the opposite shoreline. A small spur leads to a wood outhouse, which allegedly is the only CCC-built outhouse that still stands.

Taking the stone steps leads to overlooks atop 100-foot cliffs that line the lake here. Don’t get too close to the edge or take what appears to be descending paths that really are eroded portions of the cliff; instead, stick to the safe viewing platforms. Mountain ash is common here, through birch appears with greater frequency as the trail turns northeast.

Head downhill to a planked bridge and cross a creek. Marsh marigolds bloom in the wet areas during spring. The trail turns north there; note how birch trees grow in size.

Nelsens Creek
As the trail veers away from the lake, you’ll come alongside Nelsens Creek. A small cascades on it provides a wonderfully peaceful murmur.

You’ll also notice massive stumps. Most of these are of white pines that were logged off here more than a century ago.

Along the way, the loop passes eight-foot high fences that are enclosures meant to keep whitetail deer from eating tree saplings. Among the protected trees are balsam poplar, hemlock, mountain maples, paper birch and white pine.

Upon reaching a wooden shelter surrounded by birch and spruce, you’ve almost completed the loop.

At the next trail junction, go right/northwest and retrace your steps back to the visitor center and parking lot.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Great sights await on Superior Hiking Trail segments in Gooseberry Falls State Park

A catwalk bridge heads over Gooseberry River on its way
to the Superior Hiking Trail. Photo courtesy of MN DNR.

Map of Superior Hiking Trail in Gooseberry Falls State Park,
courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

One direction leads to waterfall, rugged river shore; other way to lake vista

A waterfall, rugged river country, and great vistas of Lake Superior await day hikers on two segments of the Superior Hiking Trail in Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park.

The highly acclaimed SHT runs 310 miles from near Jay Cooke State Park along the North Shore to the Canadian border. In Gooseberry Falls State Park, it stays north of Minn. Hwy. 61, connecting the corner of the park’s backcountry while dipping close to the main area where the waterfalls are clustered.

There’s no parking lot off the Superior Hiking Trail in the state park, so you’ll need to take a spur trail from the visitor center to reach it. To reach it, from Hwy. 61, turn southeast into the rest area/visitor center parking for the state park.

Take the paved trail heading north to the visitor center then from there watch for the signs pointing you to the Gateway Plaza. Cross under Hwy. 61 and take the footbridge over the Gooseberry River below Upper Falls. At the first trail junction, turn left/north.

In 0.34 miles, you’ll find yourself the intersection with the SHT alongside the Gooseberry River just above Upper Falls. As the waterway splits the park in half, this puts you at about the center of the SHT’s run through the park.

West segment
Going left/north takes you up the Gooseberry River through the park’s northwest corner. Among the highlights are a waterfalls and rugged river country in a 4.2-mile round trip.

The first section of the trail shares duty with a part of the park’s Fifth Falls Trail, reaching that waterfall in 1.1 miles from the parking lot. Though only a 15-foot drop, Fifth Falls offers dramatic scenery and – unlike the popular waterfalls downriver – solitude.

Take the footbridge across the Gooseberry River above Fifth Falls. The trail then climbs away from the river shore. At the next trail junction, head right/northwest.

The trail continues to parallel the river but now is on its southwest side. In this segment, you’ll notice a large 10-foot high fence that keeps whitetail deer away from the young trees on the other side. Deer love the sapling’s shoots and would kill them by overgrazing.

Next, the trail heads downhill. The route becomes wide and grassy here.

The river meanders in this section. The gravel bars are excellent spots to search for agates. In spring and autumn, watch for migrating birds who stop off along here for a meal or to rest.

Where Skunk Creek joins the Gooseberry River, there’s a shelter. This is about 2.1 miles from the trailhead and marks a good spot to turn back.

If you continue on, the trail then veers southwest as it follows the river and ultimately exits the park. From there, the trail heads for about seven miles to Lake County Road 103.

East segment
Alternately, at the junction above Upper Falls, you can go right/southeast, which takes you up the Gooseberry River through the park’s northwest corner. Among the highlights are fantastic views of Lake Superior and the crossing of a backwoods creek in a 1.4-mile round trip hike.

The trail heads uphill through a birch and pine forest into the bluffs. This segment of the trail curves behind a knoll that blocks any views of Lake Superior, though.

The first waypoint is Nelsens Creek, which is 0.7 miles from the parking lot. The stream flows out of the highlands to the northwest into Lake Superior.

Take the footbridge over the creek. A small trail that runs directly east of the bridge leads to a great vista of the lake in 0.35 miles (one-way). That vista also marks a good spot to turn back.

The main trail does continue on into the forests above Lake Superior. Upon reaching the state park boundary, the trail heads 7.5 miles to Split Rock Lighthouse.

Map

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Enjoy wildflowers on streamside trail

Topo map of Nelsens Creek Trail. Trailhead is in lower left near "719."

Minnesota route
follows creek
flowing into
Lake Superior

Day hikers can enjoy a variety of wildflowers as walking alongside a pleasant stream flowing into Lake Superior at Minnesota’s Gooseberry Falls State Park.

The Nelsens Creek Trail is not the official name of the route described here but merely a name assigned for convenience’ sake, as the 3.6-mile round-trip consists of segments of other trails, including cross-country ski routes.

Gooseberry Falls sits along Minn. Hwy 61 northeast of Two Harbors. To reach the trailhead, upon entering Gooseberry, park in the first set of lots for the visitor center. Head past the center, but rather than take the trail to Middle and Lower Falls, go left toward Upper Falls. Cross the Gooseberry River via the suspended walkway.

An asphalt pathway then passes the park’s original visitor center. The material used to build the center is representative of the North Shore’s geology. The black gabbro rock came from a quarry at Beaver Bay to the north, the red granite from a quarry in Duluth to the south, and the clay and sand for the mortar from Flood Bay near Two Harbors. The roof consists of cedar shakes.

Array of colors
The path in short order joins the Superior Hiking Trail. Go straight/northeast onto the SHT.

It’s an uphill walk from here. Fortunately, the trail is wide and grassy – and also quite beautiful. The path skirts a hill composed of 1.1-billion year-old volcanic rock as heading through a forest of paper birch. During spring and summer, a variety of wildflowers bloom on this section, including Canadian mayflowers, dewberry, Mertensia, trilliums, and wood anemones.

In about a quarter mile from the old visitor center, the trail separates from the SHT upon reaching Nelsens Creek. Go left/northwest alongside the stream.

As the trail passes along the wetter and cooler stream, the wildflowers here change as well. While wood anemones are a constant, there now also are blue flag iris, coltsfoot, goldenrod, marsh marigolds, violets (both yellow and purple), and white asters. The dominant birch tree also begins to give way to spruce and aspen.

The trail soon veers northeast and crosses the creek via a footbridge. It continues uphill along the stream’s east side. Look for wild rose bushes and strawberries.

Signs of ancient lake
Upon reaching an intersecting ski trail, continue straight/north next to the creek. Note how the dominant tree species change with aspen and spruce displacing cedar and poplar as you gain in elevation. Nelsens Creek begins at about 900 feet elevation, dropping almost 300 feet before flowing into Lake Superior.

At about 860 feet elevation, the trail veers west and crosses the creek again. Consider walking just a little beyond the footbridge; in about a tenth of a mile, the trail surface turns to red clay and pebbles, remnants of what once was Glacial Lake Duluth, the precursor to Lake Superior that around 9000 BC filled the entire valley below this point with cold meltwater.

Once you’ve spotted the red clay, turn back and retrace your steps to the parking lot.

Be aware that much of the trail is grassy; parts of it can be wet and even muddy in spring or after a rain, so be sure to wear good hiking boots. Also, different sources, including official park documents, provide alternate spellings for the creek, such as Nelsons, Nelson’s and Nelsen’s. The spelling used in this book is what appears on U.S. Geological Survey maps.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.

Trail crosses billion-year-old lava flow

Picnic Flow Trail. Photo courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

Map, Picnic Flow Trail, courtesy Minnesota DNR.

Often overlooked trail offers
unique sights at Minnesota's
Gooseberry Falls State Park

Day hikers can walk an expansive cliff of billion-year-old lava rock overlooking Lake Superior via the Picnic Flow Trail.

The 3-mile round-trip heads to an impressive part of Gooseberry Falls State Park that most visitors miss. The Picnic Flow is worth the hike, however. It’ll give you the feeling of being on the moon – or if a good wind is blowing off the lake, of being on newly formed volcanic rock in Hawaii.

Gooseberry Falls sits along Minn. Hwy 61 northeast of Two Harbors. Upon entering Gooseberry, park in the second lot (or the northeastern one of the pair), near the visitor’s center. Leave from the lot’s northeast corner, heading into a birch and spruce woods where the trail veers south, and in short order crosses Camp Road near the camp registration pullout.

Once on the road’s other side, continue south into a grassy area of asters, buttercups, daisies, hawkweed and Metensia. The varied colors of these wildflowers – white, yellow, orange and blue – can make for a nice show amid the green grass.

At the grassy area’s south end, cross a second road. From there, a thin dirt path heads through the woods and comes to a parking lot for the Bird Ridge Group site where campers unload their vehicles. A path leads from the lot’s southeast side to just north of where Pebble Creek flows into Lake Superior. Go right/southeast at the trail intersection.

Arriving at the flow
In about 400 feet, the path opens onto the Picnic Lava Flow. About 1.1 billion years ago, red hot lava spread across this area in smooth and ropy swaths called a Pahoehoe flow. Such flows are common in Hawaii today. Follow this ancient basalt northeast along the lakeshore; sometimes the trail winds into the woods, especially at small bays.

Looking down at your feet, keep an eye out for amygdules, which usually are banded blues and creams and reddish-whites. These round rocks were weathered out of the basalt and can be up to a quarter in size. The white crystals in the rock are feldspar that can be up to 2 inches wide. Remember to look up, though – a steep cliff overlooks Lake Superior to the east.

Water puddles here may look like tidal pools found on Pacific Northwest coasts, but they’re not formed the same way. Instead, splash water gets trapped here during storms and remains until evaporating.

Despite a moon-like barrenness, the Picnic Lava Flow is home to plants including harebells and cinquefoil.

Once the lava flow ends, the trail heads through a grassy area and grove of mountain ash. It then comes to Agate Beach II, where orange lichen covers the bedrock. Tansies, wild roses and raspberry bushes also flourish here.

Sea stack, sand spit
Take the stairs to the rock picnic shelter. On the shelter’s right is a sea stack in the making. Common in the Pacific Northwest, wave action creates sea stacks by separating chunks of rock from the mainland.

The overlook with the picnic shelter sits amid red pine. It offers a good view of the lake with its waves striking black basalt. When windy, the waves turn a frothy white.

A spit to the shelter’s north comes and goes seasonally as the lake’s breaking waves carry sand and pebbles beyond the bar while the Gooseberry River’s currents bring their own sediment downstream. The two mix, forming the bar in summer through autumn with the river’s heavier flow in spring washing it away.

After taking in the sights from the shelter, turn back here and retrace your steps to the parking lot.

Learn about more day hiking trails at and near Gooseberry Falls State Park in my Day Hiking Trails of Gooseberry Falls State Park guidebook.