Trail heads up side of south California divide

The Momyer Creek Trail climbs up the south side of the San Bernardino
Peak Divide.

This entry originally was written for and published by the Uken Report.

With temperatures across the Coachella Valley still hovering in the low 100s, you'll need to gain some elevation to hike comfortably. One good option is the San Gorgonio Wilderness, which surrounds Southern California's highest mountain.

Try the Momyer Creek Trail (1E06), which can be shortened to a 5.2-miles round trip day hike that gains about 1850 feet in elevation. Temps top out there at the mid-70's to mid 80's during early September, though the higher you go, the cooler it gets.

To reach the trailhead, from the Coachella Valley take Interstate 10 west across the Banning Pass. In Calimesa, exit right/northeast onto Sandalwood Drive; as the road curves north, it becomes Fifth Street and enters Yucaipa. When the street ends, turn right/northeast onto Oak Glen Road then left/north onto Bryant Street. At Calif. Hwy. 38/Mill Creek Road, go right/northeast.

You'll begin a gradual climb in the mountains alongside Mill Creek. Turn onto Valley of the Falls Drive by continuing straight-right/east, remaining alongside the creek. Upon coming to Forest Falls, watch for the Momyer Creek Trailhead on your left/north; it is listed as Forest Road 1S42 on maps but really is just a large parking area. The turn is about 100 yards before the fire station.

The trailhead is on the lot's northwest corner. You're starting at 5400 feet elevation in the Sand to Snow National Monument.

Creek crossing
Within 150 feet, the trail crosses the broad wash of Mill Creek and then a tributary, Alger Creek. At this time of year, you'd be lucky to see a trickle in either stream, but during spring, especially right after a snowfall or rain in the higher elevations, it can be fast moving and even deep. If that's the case, don't cross.

Next the trail switchbacks up a ridgeline at the bottom of San Bernardino East Peak, which tops out at 10,617 feet. The slightly higher Anderson Peak, at 10,840 feet is to the east while the slightly lower San Bernardino Peak, at 10,578 feet, is to the west.

If you're looking for solitude, this is a great trail to hike. It's rarely used but other than the rocky crossing of the Mill Creek wash is well-maintained and easy to follow.

The trail also will be green. Oaks and pines line the route.

If hiking in winter or spring, you'll likely encounter snow along the way, usually starting around 6200 feet.

Options
At about 2.6 miles, the trail splits. The Momyer Creek Trail goes left and continues up the ridge to the San Bernardino Peak Divide Trail, which will take you to each of the previously mentioned peaks. The Alger Creek Trail goes right and descends into a draw with Alger Creek at the bottom. Alger Creek Camp is on the trail to the right and about 1.1 miles away.

The split marks a good spot to turn back if looking for just a day hike. You're at about 7250 feet elevation.

Though the trail can be used to reach the top of Mount San Gorgonio, no wilderness permit is needed to hike this part of the route. Either an Adventure Pass or an America the Beautiful pass is needed for your vehicle, though.

The trail is named for Joe Momyer, who during the 1960s worked to protect what is now the San Gorgonio Wilderness from development and got it included in the Wilderness Act of 1964.

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks series.

Momyer Creek Trail top map. Click for larger version.

Trail climbs to Spitler Peak on Desert Divide

Evergreens dominate the top of the Desert Divide.

This article originally was written for and published by Uken Report.

One of the best ways to escape the desert heat is to gain some elevation. Fortunately, a number of nearby trails do just that by heading to the Desert Divide, a ridge connecting several peaks south of Mount San Jacinto.

The 12-mile round trip Spitler Peak Trail (3E22) is one such trail. Be aware that due to the 2013 Mountain Fire, the trail has been reworked, so older topo maps of the route are inaccurate.

From Palm Desert, take Calif. Hwy. 74 into the mountains. Turn right/east onto Apple Canyon Road at Hurkey Creek. Park in a turnout about 150 feet before reaching the trail. Walk along the roadside north to the trailhead, which goes right/east from the pavement.

Chamise and manzanita
The trail starts in Garner Valley’s chaparral country at about 4920 feet elevation. The
first mile is relatively flat with the second mile a gentle ascent.

Chamise is the most common shrub in the lower chaparral region. The flowering plant reaches up to four-feet high with a number of stick-like branches. Its highly flammable leaves are oily, hence its nickname greasewood. Related to roses, the plant does well in Southern California’s foothills, as its wide spreading and deep penetrating roots securely anchor it.

A little higher up, manzanita appears. Taller than chamise, the manzanita shrub’s strikingly red branches usually reach about six feet. It begets small pink flowers in spring. Dozens of manzanita species exist, with some limited to very specific areas, such as Orange County or the Sonoma area.

At mile three, the ascent grows increasingly steep. Here it runs through the oaks section of the chaparral. The Mountain Fire left nothing but charred trunks of the oaks that grew here, leaving behind an eerie landscape. Desert scrub plants, however, are slowly filling in the understory.

Oak and evergreen
Most of the burned out trees were various species of scrub oaks, which can reach 13 feet high. Their dull green leaves are waxy on the top and hairy underneath, an adaptation to the dry, hot climate.

As the trail switchbacks up toward the Desert Divide, evergreens rise around you. Incense-cedar, western juniper, white fir, and pines - including foothill, Jeffrey, sugar - all inhabit the divide’s top. The green contrast with the chaparral below is quite stark.

At 7000 feet, the trail reaches Desert Divide. The Pacific Crest Trail runs along the ridge top.

Looming above to the south is Spitler Peak. At 7440 feet elevation, it’s the fifth highest of the dozen peaks on or near the divide. Red Tahquitz Peak is the tallest at 8720 feet while Butterfly Peak is the shortest at 6240 feet.

Spitler Peak summit
You can scramble and bushwhack to the top of Spitler Peak, but it’s not recommended unless you are in excellent physical shape and familiar with backwoods navigation. The top offers an excellent view of the entire Coachella Valley to the north and Lake Hemet to the south.

Alternately, you can take the PCT south to partially wrap around the peak. This provides some good vistas of the Coachella Valley.

After taking in the peak, retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Much of the trail is exposed to the sun, so be sure to don sunscreen and sunhat as well as bring plenty of water.

Spitler Peak Trail topo map. Note the newer route in red.
Click for larger version.

Trail crosses cool San Gorgonio Wilderness

The Johns Meadow Trail crosses five creeks, all of which are small.

Johns Meadow Trail terrain map. Click for larger version.

As the valley floor simmers in summer heat, the best way for hikers to escape it is to gain some elevation. Locally, that means getting high up on either Mount San Jacinto or San Gorgonio Mountain.

One easy and beautiful trail on the latter is the 7.2-miles round trip Johns Meadow Trail. It sits at more than 7200 feet above sea level in alpine country so during summer you'll be a comfortable in just a T-shirt most of the day.

To reach the trailhead, from the Coachella Valley take Interstate 10 west over the Banning Pass. In Yucaipa, go right/northeast onto Oak Glen Road then left/north onto Bryant Street. Next, go right/north onto Calif. Hwy. 38. This heads into the San Bernardino National Forest. When the highway leaves the canyon and veers north, you'll start to gain some major elevation. Turn right/east onto Jenks Lake Road West. Take the next right/south onto the dirt Forest Road 1N82. Park in the dirt lot on the left/west.

Begin the hike by walking FR 1N82, which is on the right/east. You'll head through a fragrant and cool evergreen forest. You're at about 6550 feet above sea level and gradually will gain elevation.

Where's the meadow?
"Meadow" is a bit of a misnomer for this hike. It does traverse the edge of a flat area between San Gorgonio Mountain and the Big Bear Lake region, but that's about where the idea of a "meadow" ends. Trees entirely fill the flat, and the route itself heads along the side of a mountain.

At 0.1 miles, the road junctions with a trail from the southwest. Continue right-straight/southeast.

Almost all of the trees along the way are evergreens. The most common at this elevation are yellow pine, Jeffrey pine, incense cedar, and several fir species.

The road intersects a trail from the south at 0.5 miles. Take that new trail by turning left/south.

Though the trail is almost entirely shaded, there are pretty wildflowers to be seen beneath the forest canopy. Among them are blue columbine, Indian paintbrush, lupine, and snow flower. Moss and ferns also can be seen at various spots.

Mule deer and black bears
At 0.7 miles, you come to another trail. Go right/southeast.

You're now officially in the San Gorgonio Wilderness. The 96,595-acre region, which is part of the national forest, protects the area surround the San Gorgonio Mountain. It's a small oasis of wilderness between the urbanized basin stretching to the ocean and the Mojave Desert beyond the mountains to the north and east.

The trail splits at 0.8 miles. Go right/northwest. You're now on the Johns Meadow Trail proper.

More than 400 different animal species inhabit the forest. Among the larger of them are mule deer and black bears. The black bears are not native to the mountains but were brought here in the 1930s to attract tourists.

Notable mountains
The trail is mostly level, sticking to about 7055 feet elevation, but there are some ups and downs, especially when coming to creeks. In all, there are five streams. The first of them is Ciennaga Creek, then Stetson, an unnamed one that joins Forsee Creek to the north, then Forsee Creek itself, and then another unnamed one that feeds Forsee.

At 3.6 miles, the trail reaches the end of Johns Meadow, which sits at 7300 feet elevation. This marks a good spot to turn around.

There really aren't any vistas on the trail, but the evergreens more than make up for it. You will see mountains rising over the trees, though. Most notable is San Gorgonio Mountain's peak, which rises to 11,502 feet to the southeast and is the highest peak in Southern California. San Bernardino Peak reaches 10,578 feet to the south and will be the one you see the most simply because of the trail's direction To the north, a bank of mountains rise to around 7800-7900 feet; atop it is Big Bear Lake.

After crossing the last of the five creeks, retrace your steps back to your vehicle.

Trail crosses forest on way to outcropping

Suicide Rock is a granite outcropping rising to 7528 feet elevation near
Idyllwild, Calif.

Suicide Rock Trail topo map. Click for larger version.

This article originally was written for and appeared in the Uken Report.

With summer’s annual baking of California’s Coachella Valley, the best way to beat the desert heat is to to gain some elevation. Pine-studded Mount San Jacinto State Park nicely fits that bill.

Hikers can head to a granite rock outcropping that offers great views via a route that heads through the park.

The 6.6-mile round trip to Suicide Rock – consisting of the Deer Springs and the Suicide Rock trails – begins in Idyllwild. You’ll need to pace yourself as the trail gains 1,900 feet at mile-high altitudes. The hike requires a wilderness permit, which can be obtained for free and is self-issued at the ranger station off of Calif. Hwy. 243.

Deer Springs Trail
To reach the trailhead, from Palm Desert take Calif. Hwy. 74 north. Turn right/north onto Calif. 243 and drive through Idyllwild, stopping at the ranger station for the permit. After passing the road for the Idyllwild Nature Center, look for an unpaved parking lot on the road’s right/north. The lot is the trailhead. You will need an Adventure Pass to park.

The hike starts at 5,600 feet on Deer Springs Trail. Oak trees line the route, but you’ll soon pass through a grove of manzanita, bushes that boast stunning red bark.

At 0.25 miles, the trail officially enters the Mount San Jacinto State Park and State Wilderness. Dogs are not allowed in state wilderness area.

The sandy trail can be dusty if the area has gone a few days without rain. Plenty of small, harmless lizards can be seen sunning on the sand and rocks in open spots.

Suicide Rock Trail
At 2.3 miles, the trail splits. Go right/northeast onto Suicide Rock Trail. The route has gained about 1300 feet elevation since the trailhead, and this is a good spot to rest.

In short order, the trail crosses the intermittent Marion Creek. If hiking in spring, snow melt will feed it and offer up a three-foot waterfall visible from the trail.

The trail dips before ascending to Suicide Rock. Watch for breaks in the trees that offers a fantastic view of Lily Rock which tops out at 7924 feet to the southeast.

At 2.5 miles, the trail enters the San Jacinto Wilderness portion of the San Bernardino National Forest. In addition to jurisdiction changes, you’ll also notice the trees changing to pines as entering subalpine elevations.

Suicide Rock
The trail finally reaches Suicide Rock at 3.3 miles. The outcropping tops out at 7528 feet.

If a fan of 1980s slasher films, Suicide Rock may look familiar to you. The outcropping played a vital role in the movie “Prey,” where it starred in the role of a Colorado mountain on which a group of campers is stalked and murdered.

The outcropping got its name from a legend in which a Native America princess and her lover, ordered to separate, instead committed suicide by jumping off the rock. There’s probably no truth to the story, though, as that legend is popular at a number of high points from California to the Midwest. It probably was appropriated for the rock in an effort to boost local tourism.

Though standing at the edge of Suicide Rock, imagining how the story might be true isn’t difficult. It’s a long, sharp drop down. Because of that, the outcropping with its 27 different walls is a popular rock climbing destination. More than 300 climbing routes have been identified on the rock wall.

Views from the top
Stay clear of the dangerous edges, though, and instead enjoy the impressive views. To the southeast is Strawberry Valley and Idyllwild below you. The peak on the other side of the valley is Lily Rock and beyond it Tahquitz Peak at 8721 feet. To the southwest is Bear Trap Canyon. Behind and above you to the north is Marion Mountain, peaking at 10,362 feet.

After taking in the sights, retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

During summer, go early in the morning when Idyllwild’s temperatures are in the low 60s. By afternoon, temperatures will climb to the low 90s. Going down the hill in the late afternoon, however, does mean more shade.

Also, bring plenty of water. Though cooler than the valley floor, the mountainside still is fairly arid, and you’ll work up a sweat on the ascent.

PCT segment heads up San Jacinto Peak

A great view of the San Gorgonio Pass awaits on the Pacific
Crest Trail.

Pacific Crest Trail topo map.
Click map for larger version.

This article originally was written for and appeared at Uken Report.

Day hikers can head up the northern flank of the San Jacinto Peak on a segment of the Pacific Crest Trail.

The 5.32-miles round trip hike runs from a trailhead along Falls Creek Road to an intermittent stream that feeds a Snow Creek. Part of the trail technically is in the Palm Springs, Calif., city limits, but most of it sits in the desert portion of the San Bernardino National Forest.

To reach the trailhead, from Palm Springs, take Calif. Hwy. 111 northwest toward Interstate 10. Just before reaching the freeway entrance, turn left/southwest onto Snowcreek Canyon Road. Just before arriving at Snow Creek, go left/southeast onto Fall Creeks Road. When the road splits, turn left/east. The road gradually ascends the desert plain toward San Jacinto Peak. As reaching the first mountain ridge, watch for a pullout on the road’s right/west side. Park there.

Born with dinosaurs
The trail begins at 1660 feet above sea level by angling toward the ridge’s base. In about 110 feet, a couple of switchbacks take you up the ridge’s side. It’s a rarely seen view of the Coachella Valley’s northernmost tip, one of barren desert and isolation with only the tiny freeway and a few dirt road etched across the valley floor suggesting you’re not alone.

San Jacinto Peak’s summit looms above to the south. It tops out at 10,831 feet.

The mountain began forming more than 95 million years ago when tectonic plates slid against one another. The friction caused molten rock to rise and pool deep underground. As closing on the surface, it cooled and hardened into granite.

Erosion next wiped away the overlying rock, exposing the granite around 30 million years ago. At that time, only the upper portions of the granite block was above sea level.

Still growing
As rounding the ridge, the village of Snow Creek appears below. The view is short-lived, though, as the trail switchbacks up then continues roughly northwest while heading through desert scrub. Cabazon can be seen on the horizon at the other end of the desert floor with San Gorgonio Mountain to the north.

Beginning about 20 million years ago, parallel faults formed along the San Andreas. Thanks to earthquakes over millions of years, the granite formation’s eastern face rose dramatically, resulting in San Jacinto Peak’s sharp escarpment overlooking Palm Springs. Runoff water from rain and snowmelt formed the peak’s several ridges by carving out canyons.

At about 1.33 miles in, the trail switchbacks up the ridge and turns southeast. You’re at about 2600 feet elevation – and what a difference nearly a thousand feet gain makes. You’ll notice that bushes appear along the next stretch of the trail.

San Jacinto Peak isn’t done growing. So long as faults run alongside each side of the mountain, it will rise while the valleys below sink. How long that lasts and how high the peak will reach is uncertain. The Pacific and North American tectonic plates are expected to rub against one for a long time, though – Los Angeles will reach San Francisco in 10 million years and travel up Alaska’s western coast in about 50 million years – so there should be plenty of mountain building to come.

Vista of Cabazon Pass
Following the ridge’s natural contour, the trail continues to climb the mountain. As it veers south, the trail dips into an intermittent stream that feeds Snow Creek.

The trail begins another switchback at about 2.66 miles in. Rather than continue up the PCT, take a short off-trail excursion to a vista overlooking the valley floor below. The windmill farm in the Cabazon Pass appear to the northeast. You’re at about 3252 feet above sea level.

For a day hiker, this is a good spot to turn back. The trail does continue all the way into Mount San Jacinto State Park, but it’s an overnight backpacking trip to get there and come back.

While the mountain’s shadow will leave the route in shade by late afternoon, it is otherwise entirely exposed to the sun. Be sure to don sunscreen, sunhat and sunglasses. Good hiking boots and a trekking pole are advisable to traverse the rocky ground.

Hike heads to oasis nestled in desert hills

An oasis sits in a fold in Bear Creek Canyon high in the foothills behind
La Quinta, California.

Bear Creek Canyon Trail topo map. Click for larger version.

The following article originally was written for and published by the Uken Report.

Day hikers can enjoy a small oasis nestled in the foothills over La Quinta, Calif., on the Bear Creek Canyon Trail.

This 8.3 miles out and back trail through Bear Creek Canyon and a ridgeline above it is not for the novice hiker. It sports 2,319 feet of elevation gain – that’s equal to about 232 flights of stairs. If you find it too difficult, you always can hike a segment of it.

The trail starts in La Quinta Cove. To reach the trailhead, from Calif. Hwy. 111 in La Quinta, turn south onto Washington Street. Then turn right/west onto Avenue 52 and from there left/south onto Avenida Bermudas. When this street fully curves west, it becomes Calle Tecate. A parking lot for the trail is on the street’s left/south side, across the road from Avenida Ramirez.

From the lot, the trail heads southwest into the Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument. It’s fairly flat and sandy for about the first two miles as heading across a dry creek bed and wash. Be careful not to turn left/east onto the Boo Hoff Trail or connectors to it.

At 1.3 miles, you’ll encounter boulders and a trail marker. Go right and look for another trail marker than begin a single track trail to the oasis. If you find yourself boulder hopping in a deep canyon, you’ve gone the wrong way.

Bighorn sheep
Though the trail is in great shape, you will need hiking boots to keep your footing as you ascend and so pebbles don’t get in your shoes. The ascent is definitely a good workout, with a few flat spots that offer relief and views.

Bighorn sheep sometimes often are spotted near this trail. Jackrabbits also have been seen, and harmless desert lizards are ubiquitous.

A diverse array of cactus can be found as climbing in altitude. During mid-March, a variety of beautiful desert wildflowers can be seen along the trail, especially after the three mile mark.

Around 3.8 miles from the trailhead, you’ll reach the lookout perch at the trail’s highest point. You’ll be treated to great views of the Coachella Valley, from the snow-capped San Jacinto Peak (during winter and early spring), the Little Bernardino Mountains on the other side of the valley, and the Salton Sea to the east. La Quinta stretches out in the valley floor below with Palm Desert and Rancho Mirage to the northwest.

Disappearing oasis
Next, the trail descends and heads around a bend. An oasis can be seen in the distance, about a third of a mile away.

About two-dozen California fan palms sit in a fold in the canyon. Temps here are a full 10 degrees cooler than in the sun, and it’s the only shade on the trail.

Since 2013, the oasis has been dying off, though exactly why is unclear. You’ll notice old, dead palms surrounding the oasis, and most of the ocotillo nearby also has perished. Drought and changing water flow underground as the ground shifts likely are to blame.

Be sure to don sunscreen, sunglasses and sunhat on this hike. Given the exposure to the sun and the trail’s length, bring plenty of water as well. To avoid life-threatening heat, hike this trail only in late autumn, winter and early spring. Dogs are not allowed on the trail.

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks series.

Palm Canyon trail heads to prominent hill

Great views await on the high ridges that the Frank Bogert Trail traverses.

Frank Bogert Trail to Murray Hill topo map.
Click map for larger version.

The following article originally was written for and appeared in the Uken Report.

Day hikers can traverse the foothills between Palm Springs and Cathedral City on the Frank Bogert Trail to Murray Hill route.

The 6.8 mile round trip trail gains 1,853 feet in elevation. It’s a good alternative to the Garstin Trail route to Murray Hill, as the elevation gain is spread out and not as severe at the trailhead.

October to April marks the best time to hike the trail, as the summer heat will be unbearable. From mid- to late-March, wildflowers and cacti bloom along the trail.

To reach the trailhead, from downtown Palm Springs take South Palm Canyon Drive south of Calif. Hwy. 111/Palm Canyon Drive. Turn left/east onto Bogert Trail. When the road becomes Andreas Hills Drive, go straight-right/northeast onto the dirt road that leads to the parking lot for the Frank Bogert Trailhead. The trail goes southeast from the lot.

Before taking the trail, though, follow the road north. Step onto a side trail to the left of the road – which heavy rains washed out in 2017 – and you’ll be treated to a great vista of Palm Canyon.

On the trail
Heading southeast from the lot, the trail winds around a foothill, slowly gaining elevation. As there are a number of intersecting trails, you definitely will want to bring a topo and maybe an aerial map of the route so that you don’t lose your way.

If at about 1.25 miles you can see two round water tanks to your left/north and are beginning a series of switchbacks heading up and northwest, you’re going the right way.

Once atop the switchbacks, the trail generally flattens.

The trail descends into a saddle at 1.8 miles.

Next the route junctions at 2.2 miles with the Wildhorse Trail, which spreads out like a U to the north. You’re going south, however, up a steep ridge. It’s almost all uphill from here. In addition, the trail narrows as nearing the top.

Murray Hill’s peak
The reward is great views of first Palm Springs then Cathedral City the whole rest of the way. San Jacinto Peak rises to the northwest and Mount San Gorgonio beyond it. The Santa Rosa Mountains are down valley to the south while the Little San Bernardino Mountains are to the east across from the Coachella Valley.

Once at the top of the ridge line, you’ll spot Murray Hill straight ahead on the trail. The trail descends into a saddle than makes a steep climb up Murray Hill’s side to the peak.

You’ll reach the rocky peak of Murray Hill at 3.4 miles. A prominent foothill in the northwest Coachella Valley, it rises to 2200 feet, about 26 stories above Palm Springs and Cathedral City.

A picnic table sits near the peak. Bring lunch and enjoy the vista while. Be sure to pack out what you pack in.

After taking in the sights, retrace your steps to the trailhead.

Trail’s namesake
The trail is named for a former mayor of Palm Springs. specifically Sonny Bono’s predecessor. In 2009 – a year after Bogert died at 99 years old – the trail was dedicated to him.

If you’ve ever driven East Tahquitz Canyon Way in Palm Springs, you’ve probably seen Frank Bogert – a statue of him on horseback stands in front of Palm Springs City Hall.

While Bogert is credited with helping make Palm Springs an international destination, his statements and some organizations he played a key role have been criticized as bigoted and misogynist. This past summer, a petition called for the statue’s removal.

There’s no shade on the trail, so be sure to don sunscreen, sunglasses and sunhat. Hiking boots and a trekking pole are recommended to keep your balance on the narrow ridgeline portion of the hike.

Trail clambers up San Jacinto Peak’s side

The Devils Slide Trail offers a fantastic view of Tahquitz Peak. 

Devil's Slide Trail topo map. Click for larger image.

September marks a perfect time to hike San Jacinto Peak – clear sunny skies, comfortable temperatures and no snow.

While most hikers take the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway to below the summit, that's not the only way to enjoy the Coachella Valley's most famous mountain. The 5-miles round trip Devil's Slide Trail lets you head up San Jacinto's southwest face, offering spectacular views along the way.

To reach the trailhead, from Palm Desert take Calif. Hwy 74 (the Pines to Palms Highway) into the mountains. At Mountain Center, turn right/north onto Calif. Hwy. 243. Once in Idyllwild, go right/northeast on Pine Crest Avenue. When the street curves east, it naturally becomes South Circle Drive. From South Circle Drive, turn left/north onto Fern Valley Road. The road ends at Humber Park; leave you vehicle in the parking spaces near the bathrooms on the park's southeast corner, from which the trail leaves.

The trail starts at about 6280 ft. above sea level and immediately enters the San Jacinto Wilderness Area, which is within the San Bernardino National Forest. It passes through a largely evergreen forest with plenty of granite boulders along the way.

After a few switchbacks, the trail generally levels out for a little more than quarter mile. It then ascends again and upon passing below the dry Jolley Spring, turns level once more.

Strawberry Creek headwaters
Towering above the trail at 10,824 feet into the sky – a full 1.95 miles above Palm Springs – is San Jacinto Peak summit. It's the highest point in the San Jacinto Mountains and Riverside County, and the six highest in the lower 48.

The Cahuilla Indians called San Jacinto Peak I a kitch (or Aya Kaich), which translates to “smooth cliffs,” an appropriate name given that the mountain’s north escarpment at 10,000 feet is the most severe in all of North America. For the Cahuilla, this was the home of Dakush, their founder.

Euro-American settlers in the area began climbing San Jacinto Peak in the 1870s with the first recorded ascent in 1874. The Wheeler Survey followed in 1878 and officially named the mountain “San Jacinto Peak.”

The best views from the trail are not of the Coachella Valley but to the west and south. Fern Valley and Idyllwild sit directly below the trail to the southwest while bald Tahquitz Rock/Lily Rock is to the southeast. Farther beyond, to the west is Hemet and the valley stretching from Riverside to Temecula. To the south are the mountains of the Cleveland National Forest; if you spot a shiny white dome in that range, it’s probably the Palomar Observatory.

The trail next crosses a tributary, fed by Powderbox Spring, to Strawberry Creek. At the next draw, the trail passes the creek’s headwaters at Middle Spring.

Saddle Junction
The trail then makes a broad switchback to an elevation about Middle Spring. It recrosses the first tributary and then switchbacks to Powderbox Spring.

In short order, the trail reaches Saddle Junction, having gained 1700 feet in elevation. From the junction, you can go a variety of directions – the Tahquitz Peak Lookout, the tram station, onto the Pacific Crest Trail, and even to San Jacinto's peak. The latter is still several miles of walking away, and a much shorter way to reach it is via the tram station.

From the junction, retrace your steps back to the parking lot. Since you're not going up the mountain face, you'll get to enjoy those views on the way down.

The trail requires an Adventure Pass to park your vehicle and a wilderness pass to hike the trail. Only a limited number of wilderness passes are given out, so start early if hiking on weekends, holidays, or from Memorial Day to Labor Day. The wilderness permits are free, but the parking pass comes at a nominal fee; both can be picked up at the Idyllwild Ranger Station, which you'll pass at the intersection of Hwy. 243 and Pine Crest Drive.

Trail heads to fire lookout on Tahquitz Peak

The views from the South Ridge Trail as approaching Tahquitz Peak
are stunning.

South Ridge Trail topo map. Click for larger version.

The following trail description originally was written for and appeared in the Uken Report.

When temps soar to triple digits in the Coachella Valley, the best way for hikers to escape the heat is to go up – way up, like to some of the summits surrounding the valley.

Tahquitz Peak, which rises over Palm Springs and Cathedral City, is one of those great destinations. Temperatures at the peak’s trailhead in Idyllwild average about 30 degrees lower than the valley floor – and the trail only gets cooler as approaching the summit.

The South Ridge Trail from Idyllwild to Tahquitz Peak, plus an access trail, runs about 9.8 miles round trip while gaining 3,057 feet in elevation. If a physically fit, experienced hiker, you easily can go to Tahquitz’s summit. If not, the hike always can be shortened to what you can handle; it’ll still offer great views.

To drive or to walk
To reach the trailhead, from Palm Desert take Calif. Hwy. 74 (the Pines to Palms Highway) south into the mountains. Upon reaching Mountain Center, turn right/north onto Calif. Hwy. 243. Go right/east onto Marian View Drive (if you passed Animal Rescue Friends of Idyllwild, you've gone too far). Next, take Saunders Meadow Road right/south. When the road reaches Clubhouse Drive, stay on Saunders Meadow by going left/northwest. Then take a left/north onto Pine Avenue followed by a right/east onto Tahquitz View Drive. In about 0.2 miles, you’ll reach Forest Route 5S11 on the right/south. Park well off the side of the road and head up the dirt forest road.

If you don’t mind a white-knuckle adventure, the mile-long Forest Route 5S11 can be driven rather than hiked, but you should have a 4WD and a high-clearance vehicle. A small dirt parking lot awaits at the end of the forest road with the South Ridge Trail running roughly north-south from it.

Those who opt to walk will gain 800 feet over a mile as heading through a scorched area recovering from the summer 2018 Cranston Fire, which burned much of Tahquitz Peak’s south ridge. Along the way you’ll pass South Ridge Spring. Once at the aforementioned parking lot, go left/north onto the South Ridge Trail. The lot is at 6,475 feet and 3.49 miles from the summit.

A granite mountain, Tahquitz is named for a luminous spirit-demon of Soboba Indians lore. After a battle with the demon – which resulted in many of the area’s natural formations – it was killed. When the demon’s body was burned, its spirit escaped and took up residence in a cave somewhere in the San Jacinto Mountains. In 1901, the U.S. Geological Survey called the peak Tahquitz on a topo map, cementing its name.

Lookout tower
From the end of the forest road, the trail is a steady grade up. To the left/west is Fern Valley below with San Jacinto Peak rising directly to the north. To the right/east is the impressive 1000-foot face of Tahquitz Peak.

The trail’s last half-mile or so is a series of switchbacks and the steepest portion of the hike. Jeffrey pines grow here.

Near the summit is two-person fire lookout overlooking Tahquitz’s face. You usually can climb it from late spring to mid-fall. It offers panoramic 270-degree views of the Inland Empire to the west, the Desert Divide to the south, the Santa Ana Mountains in the southwest, and San Diego County in the south.

Constructed in 1937, the fire lookout was the national forest’s last active tower when shot down in 1993. Volunteers reconstructed it in 1998 and have staffed it since. The tower is the second highest lookout in California and supplied by mules carrying materials up the trails.

View form the summit
Just a few more feet beyond the tower is the summit at 8,846 feet above sea level. Among the sights here are Palm Springs and the Santa Rosa Mountains to the east, the Desert Divide, Garner Valley, Lake Hemet, Thomas and Cahuilla mountains, the Palomar Range (on sunny afternoons, the dome of the Mt. Palomar telescope glitters), the Santa Anas, Temecula, and even the Laguna and the Cuyamaca mountains.

You’ll probably also notice several other trails coming from different directions up the mountain side. Among them is the Pacific Crest Trail, which is half-mile walk from the peak. The most direct route to the summit, however, is the South Ridge Trail.

Altitude sickness is a possibility on the hike. If you find yourself short of breath, dehydrated, or suffering a headache, rest and drink plenty of water. If the symptoms return after continuing the hike, turn back from home. Pace yourself, keep taking rest breaks, and the symptoms should go away as you lose elevation. There really is less oxygen that high in the mountains.

Also, since the trail sits in the San Bernardino National Forest, the San Jacinto and Santa Rosa National Monument, and the San Jacinto Wilderness, a permit is required for this hike. Fortunately, it’s free, and you don’t even have to talk to anyone to get it. While on Hwy. 243, instead of turning on to Marian View Drive, simply go to the Idyllwild Ranger Station at 54270 Pine Crest Ave. After filling out the permit form, take the carbon copy on the the hike, and drop the top sheet into the marked slot. You’ll also need a recreation pass to park in the national forest; that costs $5 for a day permit or $30 for an annual pass.

Great trails also surround Joshua Tree NP

The trail to Southern California's highest peak - Mount San Gorgonio - is
only a short drive from Joshua Tree National Park.

Though most think of Joshua Tree National Park as remote, it’s actually quite close to several built-up areas – though a wide swath of preserved Mojave Desert does sit next it. Because of this, there are several nearby hiking areas that offer different experiences than what would be had at Joshua Tree.

Anyone visiting the national park should consider taking some time to also check out these trails:

Marsh Trail
Day hikers can explore one of California’s largest cottonwood and willow riparian areas only a few miles from the national park. The half-mile trail at Big Morongo Canyon Preserve skirts then loops through the wetlands, a rare sight in the desert. An elevated boardwalk, the trail is wheelchair accessible.

San Jacinto Peak Trail
Towering 10,824 feet into the sky – a full 1.95 miles above Palm Springs – San Jacinto Peak is the highest point in the San Jacinto Mountains and Riverside County, and the six highest in the lower 48. Dominating the city’s skyline, a former mayor once called it “Palm Springs’ oceanfront.” A number of routes allow to you to ascend the mountain, but the most popular and the easiest runs 11.5 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 2400 feet. The route actually consists of several connected trails, each with its own name.

Vivian Creek Trail
Hikers can ascend to the highest peak in Southern California from a trailhead that’s just a short jaunt from the national park. Standing 11,503 feet high, San Gorgonio Mountain towers over all peaks in the Transverse Ranges and can be seen from a number of vantage points in the national park. There are four main routes to reach the summit. The quickest of them is this trail, which will take about 10 hours. The hike comes to 18.5-miles round trip and gains 5,470 feet in elevation.

Amboy Crater Trail
Possibly one of the coolest hikes you can take in Southern California is this trek into the cinder cone of an extinct volcano. It’s a long drive from any major city, but if you have kids they will remember the hike forever. Amboy Crater looms on the horizon in the Mojave Desert about an hour's drive north of Joshua Tree. Drivers on the old Route 66 can see the volcano from miles away, and before the coming of the freeway, many cross-country drivers would stop and hike it. A parking lot sits off of what used to be a Route 66.

Trail ascends chaparral-covered mountain

The  Ramona Trail cuts through the chaparral-covered north flank of
Thomas Mountain.

Ramona Trail topo map

The following article was originally written for and published by the Uken Report.

Day hikers can explore a chaparral-covered mountainside on the Ramona Trail in an easy drive from Palm Desert.

The 5.7-mile out-and-back trail in the San Bernardino National Forest sits near Mountain Center. As the Coachella Valley blisters under the summer heat, the Ramona Trail offers a good escape with temps in the 70s during the morning and rising to the low 80s before noon. The downside is the trail gains 1490 feet in elevation.

To reach the trailhead, from Palm Desert take Calif. Hwy. 74 south into the mountains. You'll drive for about 24 miles on the Palms to Pines Highway. About 0.4 miles past Morris Ranch Road (Riverside County Fire Station 53 is at the intersection of Hwy. 74/Morris Ranch Road), look for a parking lot nestled in the pines on the highway's left side. The trailhead heads from the lot's southwest side.

Starting at 4592 feet above sea level, the entire trail is well-maintained, though it can be rocky and narrow in spots.

In short order, the trail switchbacks as ascending Thomas Mountain's northern flank. Along the way are fantastic views of Garner Valley below, the San Jacintos to the northeast, and the Santa Rosas to the southeast.

Flannel bush, manzanita
The route heads through a classic California chaparral-covered mountainside. Wildflowers often bloom here following rain.

Among the most impressive flowers are the showy yellow blossoms of the flannel bush, which bloom in mid-June. The flowers can get as large as 2.5 inches in diameter, and a number of them appear at the same time on the shrub, which can grow up to 18-feet high and 10-feet wide.

While largely considered an ornamental plant today, flannel bush played an important role in Native American cultures through California. The inner bark's sap was the Vicks VapoRub of its day and could be taken for stomach aches. The wood meanwhile was a used to make furniture and as cordage for nets.

Also common along the trail are manzanita, whose uniquely shaped red branches always stand out. Some of the bush hugs the ground with others grow several feet tall. Look for their blooms in the winter through early spring and their berries from spring through summer.

You’ll also see plenty of ribbonwood mixed in with the manzanita. It’s often called redshanks because of its shaggy shanks—or ribbons—of bark that fall off it. Ribbonwood prefers north-facing slopes, especially around 4000 feet elevation. They do well in chaparral environments, as they often resprout after a fire.

As the trail nears its destination, you’ll notice the chaparral giving way to pines, black oaks and even cedars. The route nicely becomes shaded.

Tool Spring
Watch for where the trail splits, with one path going straight to the Tool Spring Campground and the other heading northwest to the the summit of Thomas Mountain. Go straight on the spur to the springs, where there are picnic tables and restrooms. The springs is at about 6080 feet, and a small stream flows from it, cutting down the mountain’s north slope into Garner Valley.

If you wish to continue to the top of Thomas Mountain, you’re looking a total of 11.5-miles round trip from the parking lot along Hwy. 74.

The trail is named for Helen Hunt Jackson’s 1884 novel Ramona, which is set in the very mountains you’re hiking.

Most of the trail is open to the full sun, so don sunscreen and a brimmed hat. Leashed dogs are allowed on the trail.

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks series.

Hike to Southern California’s highest point

The highest mountain in Southern California, Spanish missionaries named
the peak after Saint Gorgonius during the early 1600s.

The trail crosses High Creek at about 9,440
feet above sea level.

Topo map of trail to Mount San Gorgonio's summit.

The following article originally was written for and published by the Uken Report.

Hikers can ascend to the highest peak in Southern California from a trailhead that’s just a short jaunt from the Coachella Valley.

Standing 11,503 feet high, San Gorgonio Mountain towers over all peaks in the Transverse Ranges and can be seen from a number of vantage points in the Coachella Valley. It’s a full 67 stories higher than San Jacinto Peak.

There are four main routes to reach the summit. The quickest of them is the Vivian Creek Trail, which will take about 10 hours. The hike comes to 18.5-miles round trip and gains 5,470 feet in elevation.

The length, steepness and high elevation makes it a difficult hike for most. You should first be able to summit San Jacinto Peak and Mt. Baldy (in the nearby San Gabriel Mountains) before even attempting this hike. You’ll also need trekking poles and quality hiking boots to handle the terrain. Many hikers also recommend backpacking enough equipment – tent, sleeping bag, food and water – in case you get stranded a night or two on the mountain.

To reach the trailhead, from the Coachella Valley, take Interstate 10 west across the San Gorgonio Pass. At exit 85, go left/northeast onto Oak Glen Road and drive through Yucaipa. Turn left/north onto Bryant Street then right/northeast onto Calif. Hwy. 38/Mill Creek Road. You'll soon enter the San Bernardino National Forest. Go right/east onto Valley of the Falls Drive. Take the road through Forest Falls to its end at the Vivian Creek Trailhead parking lot. This is about a 35-mile drive from where Calif. Hwy. 111 junctions with I-10.

Despite the hike's difficulty, the parking lot fills quickly on summer weekends. You’ll want to arrive early, not just for a parking space but to ensure you’re not hiking in the dark on your way back.

You’ll also need a parking permit. A National Parks Pass (which includes entry into national forests), a Southern California Adventure Pass, or a day permit purchased at the ranger’s office will work. Before setting out, always check the summit weather; conditions can change rapidly, so if you spot clouds forming at the peak any time after 10 a.m., turning back is smart.

Trailhead
A kiosk in the parking marks the way. At about 0.45 miles, look for a trail sign that sends you left and across the rock-strewn creek. Watch for a brown trail sign on the creek’s other side so you re-enter the forest at the right spot.

From there, the trail narrows, turns rocky, and climbs for the next mile. The reward are great vistas of the neighboring peaks in the San Bernardino Mountains along the way.

At about 1.6 miles from the trailhead, the terrain flattens as you cross through an evergreen forest. Soon the trail heads alongside Vivian Creek, but the grade up is reasonable.

The trail reaches a junction at 3.3 miles. Go left and head toward High Creek. The other way goes to Halfway Creek.

In short order, the trail climbs again on some switchbacks. They are a bit easier than the ascent made earlier in the hike, however, and the views only get better – among the sights is Mount Baldy, the highest point on the trail’s right and close to 40 miles away as the crow flies.

Beware of altitude sickness at this point. You’re well above a mile in altitude, and there really is less oxygen at higher altitudes. If you feel headache and nausea, take a rest and rehydrate yourself. If the headache and nausea return once you continue the hike, your safest bet is to turn back.

High Creek Camp
At around 5.8 miles is High Creek Camp, elev. 9,440 ft. The camp has water to refill your canteens and is a nice spot to take a break and enjoy a snack.

The trail continues to the summit by crossing a stream at High Creek and then up several switchbacks with rock eroded off the mountainside. San Gorgonio essentially is a massive block of quartz monzonite. As the Pacific and North American tectonic plates slide against one another, San Gorgonio’s older rock is being thrust over younger rock below it on the mountain’s north side.

The trail reaches a ridge at 7.3 miles. A short spur on the right heads to an observation point. Its great vista of the terrain south of the mountain makes it another good place to rest.

Once you’ve you’re feeling re-energized, continue on the main trail, which quickly starts gaining altitude. The terrain turns even rockier as the trees thin. Be sure to look to your right for some fantastic views of San Jacinto Peak, which towers over Palm Springs.

You’ll spot your destination, San Gorgonio Mountain’s peak, at about 7.5 miles. The trail also grows steep again as you head above the tree line and enter the barren, rock-filled region circling the summit. Look for cairns and signposts to guide you. You also may want to pull a jacket out of your backpack, as the open area gets quite windy, even on clear days.

The San Bernardino Peak Divide Trail junction is at 8.8 miles. Continue right. At the very next trail junction, go left and make the final ascent to the peak of what many call “Old Greyback.”

At the summit
San Gorgonio is Southern California’s only peak with a significant portion of its slope above the tree line. It’s peak is quite similar to that of Mt. Whitney, the highest mountain in California and the Lower 48. By the way, Mt. Whitney boasts the Lower 48’s longest recorded line of sight between two peaks – it and San Gorgonio – at 190 miles.

A sign marks San Gorgonio summit. The 360 degrees view are incredible to say the least. You’re also just high enough that you can make out the earth’s curvature.

You will get chilled atop the peak. The average temperature here never gets higher than 50 degrees, and there’s plenty of snow even in late May.

Besides its visibility on the horizon, the peak has a couple of Coachella Valley connections, though both are tragic. Palm Springs celebrities and residents Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin both lost loved ones in plane crashes on the mountain – Sinatra his mother and Martin his son.

Once you’ve taken in the sights, retrace your steps back to the Vivian Creek trailhead.