Trails head to Joshua Tree NP ranch ruins

This article was originally written for and published by Uken Report.

Despite that Joshua Tree National Park receives less than 10 inches of rain a year, settlers tried decades ago to farm it. At least in what is now the national park, those efforts at ranching and homesteading by and large failed. Still, remnants of their efforts on such marginal land holdings remain a testament to their rugged individualism.

Today, you can day hike to a few of those sites.

Before Euro-American settlers arrived in the area that now makes up the park, at least from a distance it didn’t look barren. Creosote bushes were more abundant, and mesquite and screwbeans grew across the area until the 1860s when they were cut and exported to the Los Angeles area for firewood. Ranchers saw the opportunity to raise cattle by letting them feed on grasses that grew across the Mojave.

Four great hiking trails explore the park’s ranching history.

Hidden Valley

Hidden Valley Trail
Where there are cattle in the Old West, there are cattle rustlers. During the late 1870s, William and Jim McHaney and their cowboys, known as the McHaney Gang, began stealing cattle and horses and began driving them into a 55-acre box canyon known as Hidden Valley. It was an ideal location as a narrow rock gap at the trailhead made corralling and hiding the livestock easy.

There the rustlers would rebrand the cattle and sell them along with the horses to out-of-state markets. They kept this up through the end of the 1800s.

Today, a 1-mile trail heads into the valley. The rock gap at the trailhead isn’t as narrow as it used to be, though. Local denizen William Keys (more on him later) blasted open the gap in 1936.

The best time to hike this trail off of Park Boulevard is early morning and late afternoon, as it will be crowded at midday.

Wonderland Ranch

Wonderland Wash Trail
Among the oldest of the park’s ranch ruins is the Wonderland Ranch, also known as the Ohlson House. Not much is known about the family that settled here, when they built their home, or how long they lived it.

Today, crumbling walls – some with window frames in them – and the foundation are all that remain. Tin cans, broken glass, and other odd items also can be found on the site. These items help date the ruins to around the late 1880s or 1890s.

About a third of a mile farther up the trail is a set of ruins for another ranch house. Just the foundation and a narrow staircase heading into an uncovered root cellar are all that’s left.

To see the Wonderland Ranch ruins, you’ll first have to pass through the impressive Wonderland of Rocks on this 2.1-mile trail. The trailhead is the same as that for the Wall Street Mill Trail off of Park Boulevard.

Ryan Ranch House

Ryan Ranch Trail
In 1898, Lost Horse Mine owners Jepp and Tom Ryan built a large house near Ryan Mountain. A natural spring once was located here, and to secure its use for their mine, they had to homestead the area.

In addition to pumping water 3.5 miles to the mine, they raised cattle, which helped feed the 60-plus people who worked the mine and ranch during the gold boom of the early 1900s. When the full-time mine ceased operations in 1908, the Ryans focused on cattle ranching.

Today, the thick adobe walls of their homestead, as well as old machinery, a covered well, and graves, are all that remain of their homestead. See if you can spot a bright sheen on the adobe bricks, as they were partially constructed with gold dust from their mine.

An easy 1-mile round trip trail heads along an old ranch road to the homestead. The trailhead is off of Park Boulevard east of the road to Ryan Campground.

Barker Dam

Barker Dam Nature Trail
To collect and preserve the desert’s scarce water, ranchers long ago built rainwater catchments called “tanks.” Among them was the Barker Dam, erected by local cattlemen, including C. O. Barker, in 1900.

Originally the dam sat nine feet high and was constructed out of concrete and surfaced with stone. Cattle rancher William F. Keys (remember him?) raised the dam by six feet in 1949.

A colorful figure, Keys spent five years during the 1940s in Folsom Prison for killing a man in a dispute over access to a mine. Keys even erected a stone marker to himself for the killing, and it can be seen along the Wonderland Wash Trail.

Keys’ Desert Queen Ranch is the best preserved of the many ranches in Joshua Tree, but you can only access it through a ranger-led tour.

A 1.1-mile nature loops heads to Barker Dam. Today, it’s among the best places in the park to see wildlife, including bighorn sheep, jack rabbits, birds and even frogs. The trailhead is on Park Boulevard.

The are now making up the national park became a national monument in 1936, and with it, ranching largely ended there. The exception was the Keys ranch – which at the time the national monument entirely surrounded!

Trail heads up side of south California divide

The Momyer Creek Trail climbs up the south side of the San Bernardino
Peak Divide.

This entry originally was written for and published by the Uken Report.

With temperatures across the Coachella Valley still hovering in the low 100s, you'll need to gain some elevation to hike comfortably. One good option is the San Gorgonio Wilderness, which surrounds Southern California's highest mountain.

Try the Momyer Creek Trail (1E06), which can be shortened to a 5.2-miles round trip day hike that gains about 1850 feet in elevation. Temps top out there at the mid-70's to mid 80's during early September, though the higher you go, the cooler it gets.

To reach the trailhead, from the Coachella Valley take Interstate 10 west across the Banning Pass. In Calimesa, exit right/northeast onto Sandalwood Drive; as the road curves north, it becomes Fifth Street and enters Yucaipa. When the street ends, turn right/northeast onto Oak Glen Road then left/north onto Bryant Street. At Calif. Hwy. 38/Mill Creek Road, go right/northeast.

You'll begin a gradual climb in the mountains alongside Mill Creek. Turn onto Valley of the Falls Drive by continuing straight-right/east, remaining alongside the creek. Upon coming to Forest Falls, watch for the Momyer Creek Trailhead on your left/north; it is listed as Forest Road 1S42 on maps but really is just a large parking area. The turn is about 100 yards before the fire station.

The trailhead is on the lot's northwest corner. You're starting at 5400 feet elevation in the Sand to Snow National Monument.

Creek crossing
Within 150 feet, the trail crosses the broad wash of Mill Creek and then a tributary, Alger Creek. At this time of year, you'd be lucky to see a trickle in either stream, but during spring, especially right after a snowfall or rain in the higher elevations, it can be fast moving and even deep. If that's the case, don't cross.

Next the trail switchbacks up a ridgeline at the bottom of San Bernardino East Peak, which tops out at 10,617 feet. The slightly higher Anderson Peak, at 10,840 feet is to the east while the slightly lower San Bernardino Peak, at 10,578 feet, is to the west.

If you're looking for solitude, this is a great trail to hike. It's rarely used but other than the rocky crossing of the Mill Creek wash is well-maintained and easy to follow.

The trail also will be green. Oaks and pines line the route.

If hiking in winter or spring, you'll likely encounter snow along the way, usually starting around 6200 feet.

Options
At about 2.6 miles, the trail splits. The Momyer Creek Trail goes left and continues up the ridge to the San Bernardino Peak Divide Trail, which will take you to each of the previously mentioned peaks. The Alger Creek Trail goes right and descends into a draw with Alger Creek at the bottom. Alger Creek Camp is on the trail to the right and about 1.1 miles away.

The split marks a good spot to turn back if looking for just a day hike. You're at about 7250 feet elevation.

Though the trail can be used to reach the top of Mount San Gorgonio, no wilderness permit is needed to hike this part of the route. Either an Adventure Pass or an America the Beautiful pass is needed for your vehicle, though.

The trail is named for Joe Momyer, who during the 1960s worked to protect what is now the San Gorgonio Wilderness from development and got it included in the Wilderness Act of 1964.

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks series.

Momyer Creek Trail top map. Click for larger version.

Top trails to explore JT’s rugged mountains

Rugged mountains - like the Pinto Mountains shown here - divide Joshua
Tree National Park into several small ranges and basins.

Several minor mountain ranges divide Joshua Tree National Park into a series of desert basins. Though they appear desolate and foreboding in the hot sun, many miners often clambered about these ranges looking for gold, silver and other minerals that would make them rich men. Today, the rocky mountains offer the wealth of beautiful and spectacular vistas.

The best trails to explore the park’s rugged mountains include:
• Lost Horse Mine Loop – You'll gain 550 feet in elevation from some great views on this 6.5 miles loop. The trailhead is at the end of Lost Horse Mine Road, which branches from Keys View Road.
• Inspiration Peak Trail – This 1.2-mile round trip hike from Keys View offers fantastic views of the Coachella Valley and the Salton Sea. The summit is at 5,550-feet.
• Mastodon Peak Trail – This 3-mile loop in the park's southeastern section is perfect at sunset as the rocks glow orange in the dimming light. Reaching the craggy granite summit requires an off-trail rock scramble. The trailhead is in the Cottonwood Spring parking area with a 375-foot change in elevation; some maps refer to it as the Mastodon Mine Loop Trail.
• Panorama Loop – The 6.6 miles trail gains 1,100 feet in elevation as heading up a wash the along a ridgeline in the Little San Bernardino Mountains, offering plenty of scenic views. Park at leave from the Black Rock Nature Center.
• Ryan Mountain Trail – An excellent spot to enjoy either sunrise or sunset, the trail runs 3 miles round trip to a 5,457-foot summit with 360 degree views. Along the 1050-foot climb, the Hall of Horrors rock area and Saddle Rock can be seen from above. The trailhead is off of Park Boulevard between Sheep Pass and Ryan campgrounds.
• South Park Peak Trail – The O.6-mile loop heads up to a peak overlooking Yucca Valley with great views of Mt. San Gorgonio and San Jacinto Peak. The sunsets here are spectacular. Though technically not in the national park, it is accessed via the park’s Black Rock Canyon Campground.
• Warren Peak Trail – The reward for this 6.2-miles round trip with 1,100 feet in elevation gain are the incredible views of San Jacinto Peak and Mt. San Gorgonio. Do the hike in spring when Joshua Tree's temperatures are pleasant but the two peaks are snow-capped. Park at and leave from the Black Rock Nature Center.

Best trails to see Joshua Tree’s old mines

The ruins of the Ruby Lee Well and Mill site await in Joshua Tree National
Park's Pinto Basin.

Joshua Tree National Park’s rugged mountains vibrate with a rich history of mining. From the 1800s to the Great Depression in what is now the park, there were 300 mines, though few were profitable. The ruins of several of those mines and their abandoned machinery dot the park.

While hiking to these sites is fine, never enter any of the mines and do not touch rusted metal or other artifacts.

Among the best trails for discovering those ruins are:
• Contact Mine Trail – The short 3.9-miles round trip heads 700 feet up an old mountain road to a mountainside mine with rusting machinery. The trailhead leaves from Park Boulevard south of the Twentynine Palms entrance station.
• Desert Queen Mine Trail – Gold ore was pulled from mine shafts at the Desert Queen Mine until 1961. Equipment and shafts used in the operation sit at the site, reached via the 4.9-miles round trip hike that starts at the Pine City Trailhead where the Desert Queen Mine and the Queen Valley roads meet.
• Lost Horse Mine Trail – The best-preserved of the park’s mines and mills is Lost Horse Mine, which produced about $5 million in gold and silver between during the early 1900s. The trailhead for the 4-miles round trip hike is off of Lost Horse Mine Road, a branch of Keys View Road. If you’d like to see the unsuccessful Optimist Mine, where only a stone chimney remains, continue on the Lost Horse Mine Loop, which runs 6.5 miles.
• Lucky Boy Vista Trail – This easy 2.5-mile round trip trail gains 125 feet elevation on its way to an old mine and the overlook at it. The trailhead is off of Desert Queen Mine Road north of Park Boulevard.
• Mastodon Peak Trail – A 3-mile loop climbs 375 feet almost to the top of the granite peak then past an old gold mine. The trail leaves from the Cottonwood Springs parking area near Pinto Basin Road; some maps refer to it as the Mastodon Mine Loop Trail.
• Moortens Mill Trail – The 1.2-mile round trip trail heads up 154 feet to the Moortens Mill Site. It branches off the Mastodon Peak Trail. It recently washed out and as of this writing remains closed pending repair.
• Porcupine Wash-Ruby Lee Mill Site Trail – The ruins of a well and mill site sit along the northern leg of this 8.8-mile loop at the base of the Hexie Mountains. Pickup the trail from the parking area on Pinto Basin Road.
• Silver Bell Mine Trail – Two wooden structures and a few artifacts remain at the filled-in entries to Silver Bell Mine on this 1.3-mile round trip trail. The trialhead is at a pullout on Pinto Basin Road; look for the “Exhibit Ahead” sign at the northwest end of Pinto Basin.
• Wall Street Mill Trail – A well-preserved mill used to refine mined gold sits at the end of this 2.4-miles round trip trail off of Queen Valley Road, which connects to Park Boulevard. It was used during the early 1930s during a second gold rush at Joshua Tree.

Great trails also surround Joshua Tree NP

The trail to Southern California's highest peak - Mount San Gorgonio - is
only a short drive from Joshua Tree National Park.

Though most think of Joshua Tree National Park as remote, it’s actually quite close to several built-up areas – though a wide swath of preserved Mojave Desert does sit next it. Because of this, there are several nearby hiking areas that offer different experiences than what would be had at Joshua Tree.

Anyone visiting the national park should consider taking some time to also check out these trails:

Marsh Trail
Day hikers can explore one of California’s largest cottonwood and willow riparian areas only a few miles from the national park. The half-mile trail at Big Morongo Canyon Preserve skirts then loops through the wetlands, a rare sight in the desert. An elevated boardwalk, the trail is wheelchair accessible.

San Jacinto Peak Trail
Towering 10,824 feet into the sky – a full 1.95 miles above Palm Springs – San Jacinto Peak is the highest point in the San Jacinto Mountains and Riverside County, and the six highest in the lower 48. Dominating the city’s skyline, a former mayor once called it “Palm Springs’ oceanfront.” A number of routes allow to you to ascend the mountain, but the most popular and the easiest runs 11.5 miles round trip with an elevation gain of 2400 feet. The route actually consists of several connected trails, each with its own name.

Vivian Creek Trail
Hikers can ascend to the highest peak in Southern California from a trailhead that’s just a short jaunt from the national park. Standing 11,503 feet high, San Gorgonio Mountain towers over all peaks in the Transverse Ranges and can be seen from a number of vantage points in the national park. There are four main routes to reach the summit. The quickest of them is this trail, which will take about 10 hours. The hike comes to 18.5-miles round trip and gains 5,470 feet in elevation.

Amboy Crater Trail
Possibly one of the coolest hikes you can take in Southern California is this trek into the cinder cone of an extinct volcano. It’s a long drive from any major city, but if you have kids they will remember the hike forever. Amboy Crater looms on the horizon in the Mojave Desert about an hour's drive north of Joshua Tree. Drivers on the old Route 66 can see the volcano from miles away, and before the coming of the freeway, many cross-country drivers would stop and hike it. A parking lot sits off of what used to be a Route 66.

Trails to see granite boulders at Joshua Tree

Among the best time to view Joshua Tree National Park's oddly shaped
granite boulders is at sunset.

Clusters of monzogranite boulders form fascinating sights and mazes all throughout Joshua Tree National Park. Besides being fun to clamber over and around, some of them appear in unique shapes that fire the imagination.

Among the best trails to explore the park’s granite monoliths are:
• Boy Scout Trail – You can hike deep into the Wonderland of Rocks on this 8-mile one-way trail. Always stay within sight of the trail so you do not lost among the boulders. If doing only part of the trail, the south trailhead off of Park Boulevard is preferred to the north trailhead at Indian Cove. Should you do the entire length, park rangers strongly advise using a vehicle shuttle.
• Cap Rock Trail – The 0.4-mile loop circles the fascinating Cap Rock formation, which is surrounded by Joshua trees and desert fauna. The Cap Rock parking area is at the junction of Park Boulevard and Keys View Road.
• Discovery Trail – A new trail made for kids, the flat 0.7-mile loop heads through gigantic rocks over desert washes while linking to Skull Rock and Split Rock Loop trails at Face Rock. Start at the Skull Rock parking area east of Jumbo Rocks Campground on Park Boulevard.
• Hidden Valley Nature Trail – The 1-mile loop heads to rock-enclosed valley at the park’s “center” off of Park Boulevard. Cattle rustlers allegedly used the valley. Park at the Hidden Valley picnic area.
• Indian Cove Nature Trail – A great trail for climbing boulders, the 0.6 miles kid-friendly loop passes yucca and various small wildflowers. Pick up the trail at the Indian Cove Campground at the end of Indian Cove Road.
• Skull Rock Trail – The most famous of the Jumbo Rocks – Skull Rock – bears an uncanny resemblance to the one of “Peter Pan” fame. The trail runs 1.75-miles round trip to it with the trailhead starting at the Jumbo Rocks Campground.
• Split Rock Loop – Face Rock, the Jumbo Rocks, and even wildflowers await on this 2.5-mile loop. It starts at the Split Rock picnic area near Park Boulevard.
• Willow Hole Trail – The 6.8-mile round trip trail, which begins on the Boy Scout Trail’s southern end, heads along and then enters the Wonderland of Rocks. It ends at a group of willow trees.
• Wonderland Wash Trail – Explore the impressive Wonderland of Rocks on your way to a the ruins of Wonderland Ranch ruins on this 2.1-mile trail. It ends at the prominent Astro Dome rock formation. The trailhead is the same as that for the Wall Street Mill Trail off of Park Boulevard.

Best trails to see Joshua Tree's namesake

Joshua Tree National Park's namesake - the ubiquitous Joshua tree - isn't a
tree at all but a member of the lily family.

Joshua Tree National Park’s namesake aren’t really trees at all. Instead, these gigantic members of the lily family, so named because their outstretched branches reminded Mormon pioneers of the Biblical figure Joshua calling out God.

Walking through a forest of them is a surreal experience and feels like you’re on another planet.

Among the best trails to explore the park’s Joshua tree groves are:
• Boy Scout Trail – You don’t have to walk the entire trail to experience a Joshua tree forest. The southern of this trail runs through a grove for a 2.4-mile round trip. Access it via the southern trailhead on Park Boulevard.
• Cap Rock Trail – The 0.4-mile trail loops through Joshua trees as circling the fascinating Cap Rock formation. The Cap Rock parking area is at the junction of Park Boulevard and Keys View Road.
• Hi-View Nature Trail – This 1.3-mile loop heads up a ridge for a panoramic view of a Joshua tree grove. Benches are available for sitting. Park in the lot at the end of S. Park Road in Yucca Valley.
• Indian Cove Trail – Kids will appreciate this short and easy 0.6-miles short, easy hike that offers plenty of opportunities for boulder climbing. The trailhead is at the end of Indian Cove Road W., which is accessible from Twentynine Palms.
• Maze Loop – Forests of Joshua trees, as well as monolithic rocks, slot canyons with high rock walls, and the famous Window Rock formation await on this 4.7-miles hike. It leaves from Park Boulevard.
• Panorama Loop – The 6.6-mile trail runs along a ridgeline in the Little San Bernardino Mountains as heading through a dense Joshua tree forest and a pinyon-juniper woodland while gaining 1100 feet in elevation. Park at leave from the Black Rock Nature Center.
• West Side Loop – Joshua trees abound on the ridges and washes along this 4.7-miles loop. Leave from the west side of Black Rock Campground after parking at the nature center there.
• Willow Hole Trail – The 6.8-mile round trip trail, which starts on the Boy Scout Trail’s southern end, heads through a Joshua tree forest and alongside the Wonderland of Rocks. It ends at a group of willow trees.

Joshua Tree day trails head to desert oases

Six palm oases can be found in Joshua Tree National Park. Among the most
popular is Fortynine Palms.

What would a desert be without an oasis? Sitting in the Mojave Desert, Joshua Tree has six. The California fan palm oases usually occur along fault lines, where uplifted layers of rock bring underground water to the surface.

The best trails to discover the park’s desert oases are:
• Cottonwood Spring Trail – This brief 0.2-mile round trip walk heads to a fan palm oasis with cottonwood trees. It's a great spot to see many a variety of birds and on top of that, there's shade! About 24 palms were planted here in the 1890s because of a once active spring. The trailhead is 1 mile east of the Cottonwood Visitor Center.
• Fortynine Palms Oasis Trail – To set up the oasis, the 3-mile round trip trail runs along a desolate ridge with barrel cactus seemingly your only company. Then it descend to a verdant fan palm oasis with water pools in a rocky canyon.
• Lost Palms Oasis Trail – This 7.2-mile round trip backcountry hike heads to a remote oasis in a shady canyon. Dike Springs is in a side canyon but requires some bouldering to reach. Park in the Cottonwood Spring lot.
• Oasis of Mara Trail – An easy 0.5 mile loop, the oasis has a long history of being used by Native Americans and wildlife. Leashed pets are allowed on the trail. The trailhead is at the Oasis Visitor Center.
• Victory Palms bushwhack – After taking in the Lost Palms Oasis, continue down canyon for a mile. Only a half-dozen palms stand in the oasis. It’s a 9.2-mile round trip backcountry hike that requires bouldering.

A sixth oasis, in Munsen Canyon, has no trail to it. An arduous cross-country 9-mile one-way hike up a cash and boulder-strewn canyon in the Eagles Mountains reaches it. A set of eight small oases sit in a two-mile stretch of the canyon.

Best trails to see Joshua Tree ex-ranch sites

Barker Dam was constructed by ranchers more than a century ago to capture
much-needed water in the desert at Joshua Tree National Park.

Despite that the desert receives less than 10 inches of rain a year, settlers tried decades ago to farm it. At least in what is now Joshua Tree National Park, those efforts at ranching and homesteading by and large failed. Still, remnants of their efforts on such marginal land holdings remain a testament to their rugged individualism.

Among the best trails to explore the park’s ranching history are:
• Barker Dam Nature Trail – To collect and preserve the scarce water, ranchers long ago built rainwater catchments called “tanks.” This 1.1-mile nature loops heads to one such such, Barker Dam. It's among the best places int he park to see wildlife, including bighorn sheep, jack rabbits, birds and even frogs. The trailhead is on Park Boulevard.
• Hidden Valley Trail – The 1-mile trail doesn't lead to a ranch but to a 55-acre box canyon allegedly used by cattle rustlers, the McHaney Gang. The best time to hike this trail off of Park Boulevard is early morning and late afternoon, as it will be crowded at midday.
• Ryan Ranch Trail – The easy 1-mile round trip trail heads along an old ranch road to a century-old adobe homestead. See if you can spot a bright sheen on the adobe bricks, as they were constructed with gold dust from a local mine. The trailhead is off of Park Boulevard east of the road to Ryan Campground.
• Wonderland Wash Trail – Discover the Wonderland Ranch ruins after passing through the impressive Wonderland of Rocks on this 2.1-mile trail. The trailhead is the same as that for the Wall Street Mill Trail off of Park Boulevard.

SoCal trail passes ponds, conifers, sequoias

A small grove of giant sequoia - an unusual sight in Southern California -
grows off the Oak Glen Nature Trail.

Oak Glen Nature Trail map; map
courtesy of The Wildlands Conservancy

The following article originally was written for and published by the Uken Report:

As the Coachella Valley simmers in triple digit heat through the summer, there are plenty of nearby hikes that deliver comfortable warmth and greenery. The Oak Glen Nature Trail at the Oak Glen Preserve is one such escape that’s easy to reach.

Nestled in the San Bernardino Mountains, morning temps at the preserve usually hover in the 70s. The 2189-acre preserve sits close to a mile above sea level and is run by The Wildlands Conservancy.

The trail is a roughly 2-mile loop. A number of small side trails that loop back to the main route allow you to personalize the adventure based on your interests and energy.

Apple grove
To reach the trailhead, from the Coachella Valley take Interstate 10 west toward Cabazon. In Beaumont at Exit 94, turn right/north onto Beaumont Avenue. The street naturally becomes Oak Glen Road as rising into the foothills. Park in the first lot in the preserve’s entrance. Look for the Ranch Entry Gate to the west of the parking lot; that's the trailhead.

The first portion of the dirt trail includes a couple of short interconnected loops on one side with a Double Red Delicious apple grove on the other.

Next the trail transitions through a small patch of fragrant conifers common to the Golden State. Mountains loom behind the trees. For a few moments, you actually feel like you’re in northern California.

The trail then circles around the Red-Wing Pond, which includes a small dock and next to it tiny frog ponds. One side of that loop passes a duck pond. The setting is quite tranquil, offering a beautiful reflection of blue sky and mountains.

Heading south from the Red-Wing Pond, the trail runs alongside a stream. It grows steep as gaining elevation; if you have trouble hiking steep areas, consider bringing a trekking pole or skipping this section and turning back the way you came.

Chaparral foothills
If you do climb the hill, great views of the preserve below and the San Bernardino Mountains to the north await.

Near the top is another side trail, the Chaparral Loop, that heads through standard Southern California foothill terrain and fauna. It’s an interesting trail, especially as it nicely contrasts with the apple groves and conifers crossed earlier. Be aware that there's no shade on this side trail.

A picnic area with open space for kids to run around on sits off the trail’s southern portion. It’s a great place to enjoy a snack or even an early lunch.

Coming off the hill, the trail heads through a more wooded area and circles back to a knoll thick in oak. From there, parallel the preserve road back to your parking lot.

Giant sequoia
Along the way, keep an eye out for giant sequoia. Extremely young and so not as tall compared to what you’ll find in northern California, especially at Sequoia, Kings Canyon or Yosemite national parks, they still are immense. They are an unusual sight, to say the least, in Southern California.

Among the many animals you’ll spot on the trail are quails, ducks, various songbirds, and possibly even deer. Coyote and bobcat tracks from their prowling the night before sometimes can be seen in the loose dirt.

After hiking the trail, you can visit the neighboring Riley’s at Los Rios Rancho Apple Farm – which is leased to apple growers by the conservancy – and pick apples, if the season is right. They usually are ripe September through December.

Dogs are allowed on the trail if kept on a leash. Bring your own water. Preserve entry and parking is free.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Morongo trail winds past Mojave desert flora

The Desert Willow Trail loops off the north side of the Marsh Trail
at Big Morongo Canyon Preserve.

Desert Willow Trail map. Note that north is at the
page's bottom. Click for a larger version.

With temperatures rising on the desert floor, the best way for hikers to beat the heat is to gain a little elevation. A great spot to do that in spring is the Big Morongo Canyon Preserve, a good 2100 feet higher than Palm Springs.

Among the half-dozen trails to hike at the preserve, the Desert Willow Trail makes for a pleasant walk in which hikers can see flora more common to the Mojave than the Colorado desert, which the Coachella Valley sits in. The route runs about 1.3 miles when done in a loop with a couple of segments of the Marsh Trail.

To reach the trailhead, from Interstate 10 in the Coachella Valley take Calif. Hwy. 62 north to Morongo Valley. Turn right/south onto East Drive then left/southeast into the park. From the southeast side of the parking area, go on the stem trail.

Wild desert rhubarb
At the first trail junction, turn left/northeast into the Marsh Trail. You’ll cross a bridge. In about 200 feet from the parking lot kiosk, go left/north onto the dirt trail. You’re now officially on the Desert Willow Trail.

Alkali goldenbush lines this section of the trail. The shrub grows up to 40 inches high and produces a brilliant yellow flower. It flourishes in arid, sandy soil, especially alkali flats, hence its name.

Clusters of wild desert rhubarb also grow along this part of the trail. The rhubarb’s waxy and ridged leaves nicely captures moisture, even from mists, and sends it down a central vein to its taproot, in a sort of self-irrigation process. The plant grows about 2-4 feet tall and usually at a lower elevation than the preserve.

Stands of tall creosote bush also can be found here. A common desert plant, creosote prefers the moist areas of washes and alluvial fans. Their roots are so efficient at absorbing water that they often prevent other desert plants from establishing themselves in an area. A creosote’s crown also can split to create a clone of itself; some colonies of the plant that grew from a single seed have been dated to 11,700 years old in California.

Honey mesquite
Another sight here is the desert willow, the trail’s namesake. Despite the name, the shrub is not related to the weeping willow tree found across the United States. Still, the desert version found here can grow between 15-40 feet high.

In 0.4 miles and after crossing a bridge over an intermittent stream, the path junctions with the Yucca Ridge Trail. Go right/south.

As the trail runs along the base of Yucca Ridge with a desert wash to the trail’s right, several stands of honey mesquite grow in dense thickets. The short tree serves as an important habitat for rabbits and quails.

Upon nearing the wetlands area, two observations decks – one on each side of the trail – let hikers enjoy the desert scenery stretching over the wash.

Spikerush
At 0.8 miles, the trail crosses the wetlands via bridge and junctions again with the Marsh Trail. Go right/west onto the Marsh Trail, a boardwalk.

The trail winds through the wetlands with a couple of large observation decks along the way. Among the interesting plants seen here is spikerush. It can grow close to seven feet high. As a grass, their stems usually can’t support itself at that height, so they bend downward under their own weight and form a dense cover. It’s the perfect shelter for small mammals and ground-nesting birds.

At 1.24 miles, the route reaches the junction with the Desert Willow Trail. Stay on the Marsh Trail by going left/southwest then take the next right/northwest onto the stem leading to the parking lot.

There’s very little shade on the trail, so you’ll want to don sunscreen, sunglasses and a sunhat for the hike.

Trail heads to desert oasis at Joshua Tree

Miners decades ago planted fan palms to mark the location of a desert spring.

Fortynine Palms Oasis topo map. Click for larger version.

The following article originally was written for and published by the Uken Report.

Day hikers can head to a secluded oasis on the Fortynine Palms Oasis Trail in Joshua Tree National Park.

The 2.8-mile round trip trail offers a number of panoramic views and the chance to see desert plants and wildlife. It sports a 350-foot elevation gain.

To reach the trailhead, from Interstate 10 in the Coachella Valley, take Calif. Hwy. 62 north. In Twentynone Palms, turn right/south onto Canyon Road. As the street curves east, it becomes Fortynine Palms Canyon Road. This is an access road into the north end of the national park with no ranger station. Theoretically, you don’t have to pay park admission to hike this trail...but your vehicle can be cited for not having a park pass should a ranger come by. The road ends at a parking lot with the trailhead leaving from the southeast corner.

A single track of sand and gravel heads uphill through the often barren and rocky landscape. Stone stairs along the way help your ascend and descend the ridgelines. Sections of the trail are an old Native American path that led from the desert to the oasis spring.

Red Barrel cacti be seen alongside the trail. The most common of the cylindrical cacti, their color ranges from deep red to white and yellow with all shades in-between. Older red barrel cacti tend to lean toward the southwest.

Brittlebrush clusters also thrive trailside. They can grow to almost five feet high. Their leaves are quite fragrant, and early Spanish missions in this part of the world used to burn their sap as incense.

During spring, you can enjoy a lot of cacti and wildflower blossoms, especially after a rainfall. Both the red barrel cactus and the brittlebush bloom in a brilliant yellow.

There are no Joshua trees, the park's namesake, on this trail, though. The elevation in this part of the park is a bit too high for them.

You’ll also spot a number of small, harmless lizards scurrying about and sunbathing near the trail. The Western side-blotched lizard likes open ground exposed to the sun, especially where there’s rocks and loose soil. The Great Basin collared lizard usually sticks to rocky slopes.

Quails also can be seen, though they are rarer. The plump Gambel's quail is about the size of a soccer ball and well-camouflaged. Males, however, have a cream-colored belly with black patch. Their calls are a common sound in Southwestern deserts. In spring, males make a kaa sound to signal they’re seeking a mate. When quails notice you, they’ll probably chirp chip-chip-chip, which tells the rest of their covey that something suspicious is nearby.

Desert tortoises are rarer still. If you spot a hole next to a creosote bush, the national park’s lone species of tortoise might be nearby. Only able to move a mere 0.2 miles per hour – or about as fast as traffic on Hwy. 111 during peak tourism season – tortoises construct up to 30 feet of dens underground. They are a threatened species, so should you see one, stay clear; if frightened, they will void their bladder, which diminishes their chances of retaining enough water to survive the desert’s dryness.

At 0.75 miles, the trail descends toward the oasis. Along the way, you’ll be treated to scenic views looking across Fortynine Palms Canyon.

About 0.8 miles in marks the trail's highest point. Keep walking, and like a desert mirage, the oasis seemingly pops out on the horizon.

California fan palms rise between boulders that shade a trickling spring and its pool (which sometimes goes dry). Songbirds flock here, especially orange and black orioles who feed on the ripe berry-like fruit of the palm tree.

Three different orioles are common in the national park – the hooded oriole, Bullock's oriole, and Scott’s oriole. The skull cap and breast of the male hooded oriole is a bright orange while the Bullock’s oriole is a mix of black and orange. The Scott’s oriole has a black head and yellow breast. All are migrants through the park.

Bring a picnic lunch as well to enjoy under the palm canopy.

The oasis (and trail) is closed at night so local wildlife can access the spring. Both sheep and coyotes come here, and the following day you may see their tracks on the sand around the palms.

A spring exists at Fortynine Palms because fault lines force underground water to the surface. Miners planted the palms to mark the spring's location.

The trail is best avoided during summer heat, so limit its use to October through June. There’s no shade except at the oasis. Regardless the time of the year, bring plenty of water.

Notes: The trail can be slick after a rain. Dogs are not allowed on the trail.

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks series.

Joshua Tree trail heads to rare desert lake

The small lake at Barker Dam attracts birds and frogs as well as offers the
opportunity for scenic photographs.

Barker Dam Nature Trail map. Click for larger version.

Day hikers can enjoy a lake created more than a century ago at Joshua Tree National Park.

The 1.5-miles round trip Barker Dam Nature Trail is like a sampler plate of all the national park offers – monolithic rock mounds, historic sites, desert with iconic Joshua trees, and Native American petroglyphs. In addition, the reopening of national parks with the end of the government shutdown comes at the perfect time; the weather in the high desert is warm in the 60s to low 70s, making for a no-sweat walk.

To reach the trailhead, from Interstate 10 in the Coachella Valley take Calif. Hwy. 62 north. Upon reaching Joshua Tree, turn right/south onto Park Boulevard/Quail Springs Road. Near the Hidden Valley Campground area, go left/northeast onto Barker Dam Road. In just under two miles, turn left/north into the Barker Dam Nature Trail parking lot.

The stem to the lollipop trail heads northwest from the lot into the desert. A sand trail, it crosses a couple of dry washes and approaches two large mounds of boulders. The loop begins at their base; go right/counterclockwise on the loop. This heads between the mounds and requires some walking over the rocks.

The outcroppings are called inselbergs. Made of monzonite, groundwater shaped the one-time rectangular rocks by eroding their corners. Wind, the rare rainfall, then freezing and thawing further rounded, shaped and cracked the huge mounds.

Barker Dam
Upon passing through the boulders, the trail reaches a small blue lake. In an effort to collect and preserve the scarce water, ranchers long ago built rainwater catchments called “tanks.” Today, this tank serves as a small oasis with willow trees. Birds, frogs and mosquitoes are common at the lake in March. Throughout the day, the water reflects the rock mounds while sunset casts them in a beautiful array of colors.

After taking in the lake, continue walking west along the shoreline. The trail quickly arrives at Barker Dam (sometimes referred to as Big Horn Dam), which holds the lake water in place.

Miner and cattleman C. O. Barker built the original nine-foot-high Barker Dam in 1900. Nearly a half-century later in 1949, rancher William “Bill” Keys raised the dam by six feet. Other catchments or their remnants, including White Tank, can be found in the area.

The trail next curves southeast through open desert. Joshua trees – the park’s namesake – dot the plain.

Otherworldly in appearance, Joshua trees can grow up to 15 feet high and often clump together as sprouting from a parent rootstalk. They can be found in just four Southwestern states, growing only between the elevations of 1,300 and 5,900 feet.

Disney Petroglyphs
Along the way is a short stem trail to ancient Cahuilla petroglyphs and pictographs. Unfortunately, in 1961, a Walt Disney crew, while filming “Chico, the Misunderstood Coyote,” painted over some of them so they would appear brighter; because of that, today some of them appear garish and unnatural and they sometimes are referred to as the “Disney Petroglyphs.” Most of the petroglyphs are of geometric shapes and stick figures.

At the next intersection, turn left/east. This follows the side of a rock mound and then cuts between two of them.

Along the way, watch for the Mojave mound cactus, whose flowers sprout a brilliant red each spring. A type of hedgehog cactus, it thrives in the rocky terrain around Joshua trees.

Once at the stem trail, go right/southeast and retrace your steps to the parking lot.

Hike to Southern California’s highest point

The highest mountain in Southern California, Spanish missionaries named
the peak after Saint Gorgonius during the early 1600s.

The trail crosses High Creek at about 9,440
feet above sea level.

Topo map of trail to Mount San Gorgonio's summit.

The following article originally was written for and published by the Uken Report.

Hikers can ascend to the highest peak in Southern California from a trailhead that’s just a short jaunt from the Coachella Valley.

Standing 11,503 feet high, San Gorgonio Mountain towers over all peaks in the Transverse Ranges and can be seen from a number of vantage points in the Coachella Valley. It’s a full 67 stories higher than San Jacinto Peak.

There are four main routes to reach the summit. The quickest of them is the Vivian Creek Trail, which will take about 10 hours. The hike comes to 18.5-miles round trip and gains 5,470 feet in elevation.

The length, steepness and high elevation makes it a difficult hike for most. You should first be able to summit San Jacinto Peak and Mt. Baldy (in the nearby San Gabriel Mountains) before even attempting this hike. You’ll also need trekking poles and quality hiking boots to handle the terrain. Many hikers also recommend backpacking enough equipment – tent, sleeping bag, food and water – in case you get stranded a night or two on the mountain.

To reach the trailhead, from the Coachella Valley, take Interstate 10 west across the San Gorgonio Pass. At exit 85, go left/northeast onto Oak Glen Road and drive through Yucaipa. Turn left/north onto Bryant Street then right/northeast onto Calif. Hwy. 38/Mill Creek Road. You'll soon enter the San Bernardino National Forest. Go right/east onto Valley of the Falls Drive. Take the road through Forest Falls to its end at the Vivian Creek Trailhead parking lot. This is about a 35-mile drive from where Calif. Hwy. 111 junctions with I-10.

Despite the hike's difficulty, the parking lot fills quickly on summer weekends. You’ll want to arrive early, not just for a parking space but to ensure you’re not hiking in the dark on your way back.

You’ll also need a parking permit. A National Parks Pass (which includes entry into national forests), a Southern California Adventure Pass, or a day permit purchased at the ranger’s office will work. Before setting out, always check the summit weather; conditions can change rapidly, so if you spot clouds forming at the peak any time after 10 a.m., turning back is smart.

Trailhead
A kiosk in the parking marks the way. At about 0.45 miles, look for a trail sign that sends you left and across the rock-strewn creek. Watch for a brown trail sign on the creek’s other side so you re-enter the forest at the right spot.

From there, the trail narrows, turns rocky, and climbs for the next mile. The reward are great vistas of the neighboring peaks in the San Bernardino Mountains along the way.

At about 1.6 miles from the trailhead, the terrain flattens as you cross through an evergreen forest. Soon the trail heads alongside Vivian Creek, but the grade up is reasonable.

The trail reaches a junction at 3.3 miles. Go left and head toward High Creek. The other way goes to Halfway Creek.

In short order, the trail climbs again on some switchbacks. They are a bit easier than the ascent made earlier in the hike, however, and the views only get better – among the sights is Mount Baldy, the highest point on the trail’s right and close to 40 miles away as the crow flies.

Beware of altitude sickness at this point. You’re well above a mile in altitude, and there really is less oxygen at higher altitudes. If you feel headache and nausea, take a rest and rehydrate yourself. If the headache and nausea return once you continue the hike, your safest bet is to turn back.

High Creek Camp
At around 5.8 miles is High Creek Camp, elev. 9,440 ft. The camp has water to refill your canteens and is a nice spot to take a break and enjoy a snack.

The trail continues to the summit by crossing a stream at High Creek and then up several switchbacks with rock eroded off the mountainside. San Gorgonio essentially is a massive block of quartz monzonite. As the Pacific and North American tectonic plates slide against one another, San Gorgonio’s older rock is being thrust over younger rock below it on the mountain’s north side.

The trail reaches a ridge at 7.3 miles. A short spur on the right heads to an observation point. Its great vista of the terrain south of the mountain makes it another good place to rest.

Once you’ve you’re feeling re-energized, continue on the main trail, which quickly starts gaining altitude. The terrain turns even rockier as the trees thin. Be sure to look to your right for some fantastic views of San Jacinto Peak, which towers over Palm Springs.

You’ll spot your destination, San Gorgonio Mountain’s peak, at about 7.5 miles. The trail also grows steep again as you head above the tree line and enter the barren, rock-filled region circling the summit. Look for cairns and signposts to guide you. You also may want to pull a jacket out of your backpack, as the open area gets quite windy, even on clear days.

The San Bernardino Peak Divide Trail junction is at 8.8 miles. Continue right. At the very next trail junction, go left and make the final ascent to the peak of what many call “Old Greyback.”

At the summit
San Gorgonio is Southern California’s only peak with a significant portion of its slope above the tree line. It’s peak is quite similar to that of Mt. Whitney, the highest mountain in California and the Lower 48. By the way, Mt. Whitney boasts the Lower 48’s longest recorded line of sight between two peaks – it and San Gorgonio – at 190 miles.

A sign marks San Gorgonio summit. The 360 degrees view are incredible to say the least. You’re also just high enough that you can make out the earth’s curvature.

You will get chilled atop the peak. The average temperature here never gets higher than 50 degrees, and there’s plenty of snow even in late May.

Besides its visibility on the horizon, the peak has a couple of Coachella Valley connections, though both are tragic. Palm Springs celebrities and residents Frank Sinatra and Dean Martin both lost loved ones in plane crashes on the mountain – Sinatra his mother and Martin his son.

Once you’ve taken in the sights, retrace your steps back to the Vivian Creek trailhead.