Trail climbs to Spitler Peak on Desert Divide

Evergreens dominate the top of the Desert Divide.

This article originally was written for and published by Uken Report.

One of the best ways to escape the desert heat is to gain some elevation. Fortunately, a number of nearby trails do just that by heading to the Desert Divide, a ridge connecting several peaks south of Mount San Jacinto.

The 12-mile round trip Spitler Peak Trail (3E22) is one such trail. Be aware that due to the 2013 Mountain Fire, the trail has been reworked, so older topo maps of the route are inaccurate.

From Palm Desert, take Calif. Hwy. 74 into the mountains. Turn right/east onto Apple Canyon Road at Hurkey Creek. Park in a turnout about 150 feet before reaching the trail. Walk along the roadside north to the trailhead, which goes right/east from the pavement.

Chamise and manzanita
The trail starts in Garner Valley’s chaparral country at about 4920 feet elevation. The
first mile is relatively flat with the second mile a gentle ascent.

Chamise is the most common shrub in the lower chaparral region. The flowering plant reaches up to four-feet high with a number of stick-like branches. Its highly flammable leaves are oily, hence its nickname greasewood. Related to roses, the plant does well in Southern California’s foothills, as its wide spreading and deep penetrating roots securely anchor it.

A little higher up, manzanita appears. Taller than chamise, the manzanita shrub’s strikingly red branches usually reach about six feet. It begets small pink flowers in spring. Dozens of manzanita species exist, with some limited to very specific areas, such as Orange County or the Sonoma area.

At mile three, the ascent grows increasingly steep. Here it runs through the oaks section of the chaparral. The Mountain Fire left nothing but charred trunks of the oaks that grew here, leaving behind an eerie landscape. Desert scrub plants, however, are slowly filling in the understory.

Oak and evergreen
Most of the burned out trees were various species of scrub oaks, which can reach 13 feet high. Their dull green leaves are waxy on the top and hairy underneath, an adaptation to the dry, hot climate.

As the trail switchbacks up toward the Desert Divide, evergreens rise around you. Incense-cedar, western juniper, white fir, and pines - including foothill, Jeffrey, sugar - all inhabit the divide’s top. The green contrast with the chaparral below is quite stark.

At 7000 feet, the trail reaches Desert Divide. The Pacific Crest Trail runs along the ridge top.

Looming above to the south is Spitler Peak. At 7440 feet elevation, it’s the fifth highest of the dozen peaks on or near the divide. Red Tahquitz Peak is the tallest at 8720 feet while Butterfly Peak is the shortest at 6240 feet.

Spitler Peak summit
You can scramble and bushwhack to the top of Spitler Peak, but it’s not recommended unless you are in excellent physical shape and familiar with backwoods navigation. The top offers an excellent view of the entire Coachella Valley to the north and Lake Hemet to the south.

Alternately, you can take the PCT south to partially wrap around the peak. This provides some good vistas of the Coachella Valley.

After taking in the peak, retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Much of the trail is exposed to the sun, so be sure to don sunscreen and sunhat as well as bring plenty of water.

Spitler Peak Trail topo map. Note the newer route in red.
Click for larger version.

Trail crosses forest on way to outcropping

Suicide Rock is a granite outcropping rising to 7528 feet elevation near
Idyllwild, Calif.

Suicide Rock Trail topo map. Click for larger version.

This article originally was written for and appeared in the Uken Report.

With summer’s annual baking of California’s Coachella Valley, the best way to beat the desert heat is to to gain some elevation. Pine-studded Mount San Jacinto State Park nicely fits that bill.

Hikers can head to a granite rock outcropping that offers great views via a route that heads through the park.

The 6.6-mile round trip to Suicide Rock – consisting of the Deer Springs and the Suicide Rock trails – begins in Idyllwild. You’ll need to pace yourself as the trail gains 1,900 feet at mile-high altitudes. The hike requires a wilderness permit, which can be obtained for free and is self-issued at the ranger station off of Calif. Hwy. 243.

Deer Springs Trail
To reach the trailhead, from Palm Desert take Calif. Hwy. 74 north. Turn right/north onto Calif. 243 and drive through Idyllwild, stopping at the ranger station for the permit. After passing the road for the Idyllwild Nature Center, look for an unpaved parking lot on the road’s right/north. The lot is the trailhead. You will need an Adventure Pass to park.

The hike starts at 5,600 feet on Deer Springs Trail. Oak trees line the route, but you’ll soon pass through a grove of manzanita, bushes that boast stunning red bark.

At 0.25 miles, the trail officially enters the Mount San Jacinto State Park and State Wilderness. Dogs are not allowed in state wilderness area.

The sandy trail can be dusty if the area has gone a few days without rain. Plenty of small, harmless lizards can be seen sunning on the sand and rocks in open spots.

Suicide Rock Trail
At 2.3 miles, the trail splits. Go right/northeast onto Suicide Rock Trail. The route has gained about 1300 feet elevation since the trailhead, and this is a good spot to rest.

In short order, the trail crosses the intermittent Marion Creek. If hiking in spring, snow melt will feed it and offer up a three-foot waterfall visible from the trail.

The trail dips before ascending to Suicide Rock. Watch for breaks in the trees that offers a fantastic view of Lily Rock which tops out at 7924 feet to the southeast.

At 2.5 miles, the trail enters the San Jacinto Wilderness portion of the San Bernardino National Forest. In addition to jurisdiction changes, you’ll also notice the trees changing to pines as entering subalpine elevations.

Suicide Rock
The trail finally reaches Suicide Rock at 3.3 miles. The outcropping tops out at 7528 feet.

If a fan of 1980s slasher films, Suicide Rock may look familiar to you. The outcropping played a vital role in the movie “Prey,” where it starred in the role of a Colorado mountain on which a group of campers is stalked and murdered.

The outcropping got its name from a legend in which a Native America princess and her lover, ordered to separate, instead committed suicide by jumping off the rock. There’s probably no truth to the story, though, as that legend is popular at a number of high points from California to the Midwest. It probably was appropriated for the rock in an effort to boost local tourism.

Though standing at the edge of Suicide Rock, imagining how the story might be true isn’t difficult. It’s a long, sharp drop down. Because of that, the outcropping with its 27 different walls is a popular rock climbing destination. More than 300 climbing routes have been identified on the rock wall.

Views from the top
Stay clear of the dangerous edges, though, and instead enjoy the impressive views. To the southeast is Strawberry Valley and Idyllwild below you. The peak on the other side of the valley is Lily Rock and beyond it Tahquitz Peak at 8721 feet. To the southwest is Bear Trap Canyon. Behind and above you to the north is Marion Mountain, peaking at 10,362 feet.

After taking in the sights, retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

During summer, go early in the morning when Idyllwild’s temperatures are in the low 60s. By afternoon, temperatures will climb to the low 90s. Going down the hill in the late afternoon, however, does mean more shade.

Also, bring plenty of water. Though cooler than the valley floor, the mountainside still is fairly arid, and you’ll work up a sweat on the ascent.