Trail passes wild river, 400-year-old trees

A section of the West Manitou River Trail.
Photo courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

Day hikers can enjoy rustic North Shore landscapes on a scenic loop at Minnesota’s George H. Crosby Manitou State Park.

The 3.3-mile Middle-West Manitou-Misquah-Yellow Birch Loop combines four trails as it winds through the highlands overlooking Lake Superior. Along the loop, day hikers can experience a river rumbling over ancient rock and an old growth forest boasting centuries-old trees.

George H. Crosby Manitou State Park is perfect for hikers and campers who prefer a primitive nature setting. The park has no developed facilities, in accordance with the wishes of its namesake, a famous Minnesota mining executive who was an avid outdoorsman.

To reach the park, from Silver Bay travel north on Minn. Hwy. 61, turning left/northwest onto Minn. Hwy 1. In Finland, go right/northeast onto County Road 7 (aka Cramer Road). Take a right/east into the park, using the lot where the road loops back on itself.

Superior Hiking Trail
The first leg of the loop, the Middle Trail, starts on the lot’s north side. This portion of the trail also is part of the Superior Hiking Trail.

In keeping with the park’s primitive nature, the gently rolling dirt trail is narrow and crosses several small stones and tree roots. A boardwalk runs over a wet, boggy area, then the trail climbs a rocky slope.

After 0.3 miles, a side trail heads to an overlook. The view is worth the few extra steps. Past the overlook, the side trail rejoins the main route; at that junction, go right/north onto the Middle Trail.

Among the interesting sights following the overlook is a birch tree growing atop a boulder with roots clinging to the rock as breaking into the ground. The trail next passes an open log shelter that is a great spot for a break.

At 0.9 miles, the Middle reaches the West Manitou River Trail. Go left/northwest onto the latter.

River views
An overlook is 0.15 miles from the intersection. The rock knoll offers great view of the river valley below. The vista is stunning in autumn, when the changing leaves paint the forest in a rainbow of harvest colors. From there, descend several wooden steps to the Manitou River’s cascades.

After taking in the rapids, turn back, following the trail southwest along the river, which can be seen through several tree breaks. The Manitou River rushes over basalt set down in lava flows some 1.1 billion years ago. The water is the color of frothy root beer due to the dead leaves, grasses and other organic material that drain into the waterway; the hard rocky river bottom causes the water to tumble and aerate. Manitou means “spirit” in Ojibwe.

In 0.6 miles, after passing several spurs to campsites, the Superior Hiking Trail splits to the left/north where it crosses the river. Instead, go right/south onto the Misquah Trail and away from the Manitou.

This section of the loop heads through an old growth forest for a half-mile with a couple of overlooks just off the trail.

Ancient birch
After passing a spur to campground site 7, the trail curves west. In 0.4 miles from the spur, you’ll reach the Yellow Birch and Cedar Ridge trails. Go right/northwest onto the Yellow Birch.

This portion of the loop also runs through an old growth forest. Some of the birch trees here are around 400 years old, starting as saplings when the Pilgrims first arrived in America. Because of the thick forest, the trail here is rugged.

Wildlife frequently can be spotted along this part of the loop. Be forewarned that black bears are among the park’s denizens; should you see a bear, simply make loud noises to scare it off. Being noisy while you hike usually is sufficient to keep bears deep in the woods.

At 0.3 miles, the trail passes a connector to Bensen Lake. Stay on the main route. Then, in another 0.3 miles, you’ll reach the road to your parking lot. Follow it right/north to your vehicle.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Trail heads to rocky summit on North Shore

Humpback Trail, courtesy Minnesota DNR.

Map of Humpback Trail, courtesy Minnesota DNR.

Humpback Trail runs 4.6 miles
at Crosby Manitou State Park

Day hikers can enjoy grand views of the surrounding forestland atop an ancient, rocky knoll on the Humpback Trail along Minnesota’s North Shore.

The entire trail runs 4.6-miles round trip at George H. Crosby Manitou State Park, but a shorter 1.2-mile round trip segment of it is all that’s needed for the best vistas. Autumn is an excellent time to hike the trail as the leaves are lit in gold and red harvest colors.

To reach the trailhead, from Silver Bay take Minn. Hwy. 61 north. Turn left/northwest onto Minn. Hwy. 1. In Finland, turn right/northeast onto Minn. Hwy. 7/Cramer Road. In about eight miles, Hwy. 7 reaches the park entry road; turn right/southeast onto it. Follow the road to its end where it loops back on itself. Use the parking lot there.

The trail leaves from the lot’s west side into a hardwood forest of birch and maple. Be careful not to take the Superior Hiking Trail, whose trailhead is in the lot’s northeast corner.

For 0.6 miles, the rugged trail rambles to a summit at 1560-feet elevation. It’s one of several bedrock knobs – known as humpbacks – that can be found in the park.

The knobs, which do faintly look like whale’s back, are made up of diorite. The erosion-resistant rock formed when magma beneath the earth’s surface cooled and crystallized. Eons of rain, freezing and thawing, wind and glaciers have exposed these rocks.

The summit offers an impressive vista of the Finland State Forest to the west and is a great spots to watch a sunset. If doing that romantic hike, be sure to carry flashlights for the hike back as the dense tree cover will limit moonlight.

If you have some extra energy, the trail heads for another mile to the Manitou River. There, it splits in two. Going north takes you 0.4 miles (0.8-miles round trip) to another knob just below 1400 feet that offers a great view of the river. Heading south is a 0.3 miles (0.6-miles round trip) to the river’s shores.

The Manitou River runs 25 miles from Delay Lake, descending 1351 feet before spilling into Lake Superior. Brook and rainbow trout can be found in the river.

No matter at which point you stop the hike, after taking in the views, retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Learn more about nearby day hiking trails in my Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota guidebook.

Minnesota Northwoods trail reminiscent of hike through mountains in western U.S.

East side of Bensen Lake. Photo courtesy of Minn DNR.

Bensen Lake Trail
circles 19.4-acre lake

A walk around a forested Northwoods lake awaits day hikers in Minnesota’s George H. Crosby Manitou State Park.

The Bensen Lake Trail runs 0.9 miles round trip, including the stem trail and loop. Entirely shaded, the trail gives hikers the feeling of being in remote mountain country out west.

To reach the park, from Silver Bay travel north on Minn. Hwy. 61, turning left/northwest onto Minn. Hwy 1. In Finland, go right/northeast onto County Road 7 (aka Cramer Road). Take a right/east into the park, using the lot just before the road curves south.

Summit nearby
The trailhead for Bensen Lake Trail is the Superior Hiking Trail, which runs past the park road immediately to the lot’s southeast. Take the Superior Hiking Trail south as a stem, watching for the turnoff to the loop around Bensen Lake. Go right/southwest as the loop around the lake begins. Much of Bensen Lake trail consists of a boardwalk, as the ground can be soggy.

Along the lake’s northwest side, the lake remains visible through the treeline. Picnic tables can be found along the water. A 1600-foot high summit looms directly south of the lake.

Covering 19.4 acres, Bensen Lake reaches a maximum depth of 36 feet. Brook, brown and and rainbow trout as well as splake – a hybrid of brook and lake trout – call the lake home.

After 0.4 miles on the loop, the trail leaves the lake’s west side for the south side. The south side’s water is particularly clear, and you should be able to see about 15 feet down. It’s particularly picturesque under a clear, blue sky.

Lake plants
In another 0.2 miles, the boardwalk leaves the lake’s south side for the east side. The trail crosses a creek that flows out of the lake east to the Manitou River.

Bensen Lake’s eastern side offers some shallow spots where lake plants can grow. Keep an eye out for a variety of animals – including amphibians, shore birds, and small fish – that prefer the protection and feeding opportunities the lake plants provide.

Upon reaching the loop’s beginning, retrace your steps back to the parking lot. Note that in some state publications and websites, Bensen Lake is spelled “Benson Lake.” It appears as “Bensen” on USGS topo maps, however.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Crosby Manitou State Park offer diverse day hiking experiences

Yellow Birch Trail in George H. Crosby Manitou State
Park. Photo courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

Sawtooth peaks, a wild Northwoods river, and a pretty lake await day hikers at George H. Crosby Manitou State Park on Minnesota’s North Shore.

To reach the park, from Silver Bay travel north on Minn. Hwy. 61, turning left/northwest onto Minn. Hwy 1. In Finland, go right/northeast onto County Road 7 (aka Cramer Road). Take a right/east into the park, using the main parking lot just before the road curves south. All the trail described here leave from that parking lot.

Among the state park’s great day hikes are:
g Bensen Lake Trail – Entirely shaded, the 0.9-miles round trip trail gives hikers the feeling of being in remote mountain country out west. The trailhead for Bensen Lake Trail is the Superior Hiking Trail, which runs past the park road immediately to the lot’s southeast. Take the Superior Hiking Trail south as a stem, and watch for the turnoff to the loop around Bensen Lake.
g Humpback Trail segment – The first half this rugged trail rambles to a summit at 1560-feet elevation. From the main parking lot’s northwest corner, go 0.6 miles to the peak for a 1.2-mile round trip.
g Matt Willis Trail/Beaver Bog Trail Loop – This trail combo heads around a 1624-foot peak. From the main parking lot, take the Superior Hiking Trail south to Bensen Lake Trail. Go left/southeast for 0.6 miles to Matt Willis Trail, which runs 1.3 miles and connects to Beaver Bog Trail, a 1.5-mile route that reconnects with Bensen Lake Trail. Total distance is 3.8 miles.
g West Manitou River Trail – The trail heads to several campsites along its namesake. To reach it, do a loop, starting from the main parking lot by taking the Yellow Birch Trail to the Misquah Trail then from the latter going north on the West Manitou River Trail; return to the main parking lot on the Middle Trail/Superior Hiking Trail for a 3-mile round trip.
g Yellow Birch Trail/Cedar Ridge Trail – This trail combo runs along the side of a sawtooth mountain. From the main parking lot, take the Yellow Birch Trail southeast and connect with the Cedar Ridge Trail, turning back at the next intersection for a 4-mile round trip out-and-back hike.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Minnesota Arrowhead snowmobile trail makes for great summer hikes

The C.J. Ramstad/North Shore
State Trail is named for C.J.
Ramstad, the owner/editor of
Minnesota sports publications
 and an avid snomobiler who
died in a car accident.

A number of snowmobile trails that crisscross northern Minnesota also can be used as hiking trails during summer. One of them is the C.J. Ramstad/North Shore State Trail.

About half of the 146-mile trail that parallels the Lake Superior shore is traversable during summer; that inland stretch links Finland to Grand Marais. Portions of the rest of the trail often are underwater once the snow melts.

This summer trail in turn can be broken into manageable day hikes thanks to several access points.

Most of those hikes will take you into remote, wooded areas where wildlife from moose and black bears to white-tailed deer and wolves can be seen. Fall marks a great time to hike the trail as brilliant maples cover the ridges while bronze-leafed birch and aspen groves hug streams and rivers (One more bonus: The bug count will be low in autumn.).

To ensure you stay on the trail, watch for the snowmobile trail signs, which include diamond-shaped orange blazers, typically found on trees and posts.

Access points for the trail (heading south to north) include:
g Finland – Head west for 2.5 miles (5-miles round trip) to the Baptism River or walk northeast for 1.7 miles (3.4-miles round trip) to Egge Creek. Parking is available off of County Road 7 just south of Airbase Road; take the connecting trail northwest to the trail running through Finland State Forest.
g Cramer – Go southwest for 0.6 miles (1.2-miles round trip) to Rock Creek Cut in Finland State Forest or head northeast, partially through George H. Crosby Manitou State Park, to the creek flowing out of Kowalski Lake. Park at the lot off of County Road 7 south of the Manitou River.
g Tofte – In Superior National Forest, walk west a little more than a mile (2.25-miles round trip) across the Temperance River to Blind Temperance Creek or go northeast 5.2 miles (10.4-miles round trip) to the Lutsen Trail intersection. Park in the pullout lot at the County Road 2 and County Road 166 intersection about 4.5 miles north of Tofte.
g Lutsen – Head 0.75 miles (1.5-miles round trip) west to the Tait River or go east 1 mile (2-miles round trip) to the stream flowing out of Mistletoe Creek into Vat Lake in the Superior National Forest. Park in the lot off of County Road 4 north of the County Road 164 intersection, about 6.5 miles north of Lutsen.
g Grand Marais (Little Devil Track River area) – Walk 2.1 miles (4.2-miles round trip) northwest to Blueberry Lake's shores or go southeast about 0.45 miles (0.9-miles round trip) over the Little Devil Track to the Superior Hiking Trail intersection. Park in the pullouts at the intersection of County Road 6 and Forest Road 1367 in the Superior National Forest.
g Grand Marais (city) – Walk southwest 0.45 miles (0.9 miles round trip) to the Gunflint Trail or head northeast for the same distance to the trail’s second stream crossing in Superior National Forest. Park in the turnaround at the end of Cedar Grove Drive, north of the Cedar Grove Drive intersection in town.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.