Fall colors abound at Wisconsin waterfalls

Willow Falls, near Hudson, Wis.

Among the most

beautiful scenes in autumn is a waterfall wreathed in autumn colors. Fortunately for those living in or visiting Wisconsin, there are plenty of great waterfalls that fit he bill and can be easily reached via a day hike.

Ashland County
Hikers can tour Wisconsin’s geological history in some of the most breathtaking scenery this side of the Mississippi on Doughboys’ Nature Trail at Copper Falls State Park. The trail follows the Bad River and Tyler Forks past Copper and Brownstone waterfalls and a series of cascades. From Mellen, take State Hwy. 169 north. Upon passing Loon Lake, enter the park by turning left onto Copper Falls Road. The road leads to a parking lot near the pet area. From there, head northwest to the picnic area. Doughboys’ Nature Trail starts near the concession building.

Douglas County
Just a few miles south of Superior flows the highest waterfall in the Upper Midwest. Short overlook trails in Pattison State Park provide a variety of scenic views of Big Manitou Falls. Summer marks the most comfortable time to visit the falls, but each season delivers a unique experience. Winter offers mist rising off the falls, spring brings thundering water flows, and autumn unveils the fantastic ancient rocks forming the gorge below. To reach the trailhead, take Wis. Hwy. 35 south about 13 miles from Superior. The entrance and parking lot is on the left. Walk to the southwest corner of the parking lot and take the pathway through the park’s grassy picnic area past the nature center toward Interfalls Lake.

Florence County
Yellow-leaved birch and evergreen cedar and pine line a waterfall at the end of the LaSalle Falls Trail. The 1.9-miles round trip partially heads along the Pine River to the 20-foot high waterfalls, which slides down a long rock ledge. LaSalle Falls is the highest waterfall in this part of the state. From Florence, take County Road N south. Turn right/west on County Road C then right/north onto LaSalle Falls Road. After crossing Halls Creek, park in the lot on the right/north side of the road. Leashed dogs are allowed on the trail.

Iron County
An impressive waterfalls surrounded by a gorge of fall colors awaits on the Potato River Falls Trails. Three paths for a combined 0.5-mile round trip heads to a series of cascades and falls that drop about 90 feet over the Potato River. One trail heads to the 40-foot drop over the Upper Falls, a second trail to the-50 foot Lower Falls, and another to a lookout. Red, yellow and orange leaves line the gorge below the falls, and fallen leaves float and swirl upon the flowing river. From Hurley, take U.S. Hwy. 2 west. Turn left/south on Wis. Hwy. 169. Go right/west on Falls Road. The trail leaves from the Potato River Falls Campground.

Iowa County
Fall colors light up the trail to picturesque Stephens Falls in Governor Dodge State Park. The 0.5-mile round trip Stephens Falls Trail passes beneath a canopy of hardwoods before arriving at the waterfalls, which spills 20 feet over a moss-covered sandstone into a splash pool below. The hike can be extended by continuing past the falls on the Lost Canyon Trail. From Dodgeville, take U.S. Hwy. 23 north. The park entry road is on the right/east. Follow the entry road north to the Stephens Falls parking area on the right/east. Leashed dogs are allowed on the trail.

St. Croix County
A waterfall that many say is among Wisconsin’s best awaits day hikers on the Willow Falls Hill (Gray) Trail. The trail runs about 0.85-miles round trip on Willow Falls State Park’s eastern side. Trees line the top of 200-foot walls and the base of the 45-foot high falls. Take Exit 4 from Interstate 94, heading north on U.S. Hwy. 12 for about 1.6 miles. Follow County Road U for 0.3 miles to County Road A. Drive north, continuing past the main park entrance for about 0.4 miles. Park in the Willow Falls Parking Lot on the road’s left/west side. The trailhead leaves from the lot’s northwest corner

Top fall trails of northwest Wisconsin, Part I

Copper Falls State Park

There’s no better way

to experience autumn colors around Northwest Wisconsin than a hike.

The brilliant yellows, oranges and red of maples to the scarlet

and russets of oaks

...the crisp, fresh

autumn air and the last warm rays of sunlight before winter arrives...

the crunch of fallen leaves and acorns beneath your boots...stopping to enjoy a warm mug of apple cider or a caramel apple pulled from your backpack – it all calls for an afternoon on the trail.

Fortunately, there are plenty of great autumn trails around Northwest Wisconsin to hike. Some are right out your back door, while some are a day trip that you can do in an afternoon.

Ashland County
A river rapids over billion-year-old red-tinged rock, surrounded by a variety of autumn colors, awaits day hikers on the Red Granite Falls Trail in Copper Falls State Park. The set of two loops, loosely shaped in a figure 8, runs 2.5-miles round trip in the park’s southern corner. During autumn, you’ll find the brilliant yellows of ironwood, paper birch and aspen, the blazing orange of sugar maple, and the scarlet of red oak mixed with the evergreen of hemlock and white pine. From Mellen, take Wis. Hwy. 169 north. Enter the park by turning left onto Copper Falls Road, and park in the Loon Lake Beach lot. Head south to the beach and pick up the trailhead heading west.

***

Amber-leaved trees and evergreen conifers await hikers at Prentice Park in Ashland. A 1.25-mile round trip paved trail wends through a boreal forest and wetlands as well as crosses, via a bridge, Fish Creek Slough before ending at the Lake Superior beach in Maslowski Park. In all, Prentice Park is nearly 100 acres in size. From downtown Ashland, head west on U.S. Hwy. 2. Turn left/south onto Turner Road then right/southwest onto Park Road, which ends at a parking lot. The trail leaves from the lot’s west side.

Bayfield County
Massive trees from an old growth forest and vibrant autumn colors await day hikers on the Drummond Woods Trail in the Chequamegon National Forest. The 0.75-mile trail runs through the Drummond Woods, where a number of trees survived the 1800s lumberjacking of the Wisconsin Northwoods. Heading through a northern hardwood forest, the trail marks an excellent spot to enjoy fall colors: the yellows of basswood and birch; the oranges of sugar maples; and the scarlet of black ash and red maple. Evergreens dominate the canopy with towering white and red pines and hemlocks. From Drummond, take U.S. Hwy. 63 north. In one mile, turn left/west onto Old 63 N (aka Forest Road 235). About 150 feet from that intersection on the right is a small pull-off for parking.

Burnett County
Day hikers can walk across an old railroad bridge over the St. Croix River at the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway and St. Croix State Forest on the Wisconsin-Minnesota border. The Gandy Dancer Trail, which starts dozens of miles south of the state forest in Polk County, at Danbury crosses the border into Minnesota. The trestle bridge segment is about two miles round trip. You’ll head through a forested area. The mix of trees near the riverfront yields a fantastic multi-colored leaf display in autumn. An added bonus for autumn hikers: You’ll probably spot a number of migrating waterfowl, including sandhill cranes. Also watch for bald eagles, osprey, northern harriers and hawks, all of which reside year-round in the area. In Danbury, parking for trail access is next to the walking route north of Hwy. 77 between and Hwy. 35 and North Glass Street. From the lot, take the trail north.

Douglas County
A walk along a pristine sand beach awaits day hikers of the Lake Superior shoreline in the Bear Beach State Natural Area. The unmarked trail runs for up to 3.4-miles round trip along narrow Bear Beach. Hiking the beach, you’ll get a good sense of what this area of the world looked like before Euro-Americans settled it. A thick woods hugs the sand’s southern side while the lake stretches wide beyond to the north. Though the forest this far north is heavy on the evergreens – especially balsam fir, white pine and white spruce – in autumn the yellowed-colored leaves of paper birch and trembling aspen and the spring green of speckled alder are well-represented. From Brule take U.S. Hwy. 2 west. In Maple, turn north onto County Road F. Next, go left/west onto Wis. Hwy. 13 then right/north onto Beck’s Road. Park in the dirt lot at the end of Beck’s Road near the Lake Superior shore.

***

A boreal forest may not seem like the best place to enjoy autumn leaves. The Superior Municipal Forest, however, delivers, with its extensive growth of gold-leafed white birch and aspen amid evergreen white and red pine, balsam, cedar, and black spruce. A 1.6-mile segment of the Millennium Trail winds through the woods. In Superior, at the 28th Street and Wyoming Avenue intersection, turn south to the municipal parking lot. The trail goes both east and west; skip the eastern side, which leads to multiple railroad tracks in Superior’s industrial section.

Polk County
Day hikers can experience an autumn forest that looks almost like the one Native Americans and pioneers saw during the 1800s. The 2.9-mile Ridge View Trails near Osceola heads beneath a lush forest canopy in the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway and the Osceola State Fish Hatchery on a bluff overlooking a St. Croix River back channel. Sugar maple is the dominant tree. Each autumn, its leaves vary from yellow to orange or red. Basswood, whose leaves turn olive in fall, and white ash, which changes to a deep maroon, usually are mixed in the canopy. From Osceola, take Wis. Hwy. 35 north and turn north onto County Road S. The two trailheads are on the road’s left/west. Both trailheads have their own parking areas off of the road. Just beyond 93rd Avenue is the southernmost parking area, which is an excellent trailhead for either loop.

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The splendor of fall colors combines with a vista of the St. Croix River and fasinating rock formations on the Summit Rock Trail at Interstate State Park. The 1-mile round trip trail heads to a bluff’s highest point. Moss and autumn leaves cover the surrounding rock and ground while maples, basswood and eastern white pines line the trail. At the top, prickly pear cactus can be spotted amid the outcroppings. The highlight of the hike without question is the incredible view of the riverway from the summit. Looking north, the Old Man of the Dalles rock formation is visible. From St. Croix Falls, take Wis. Hwy. 35 south. Turn right/west into the park and follow the entry road to the parking lot across from the Lake O’ the Dalles.

Hiking trails head to far-flung lighthouse

Devils Island Lighthouse is Wisconsin's northern most light.

Devils Island topo map. Click for larger version.

Day hikers can visit Wisconsin’s remotest lighthouse on Devils Island in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.

The northern most of the Apostle Islands, Devils Island Lighthouse is difficult to reach as tour boats usually don't stop there, though they may pass. Boaters and sea kayakers, however, will find several landing spots on the island.

A good route for hikers is to land on the island's southwestern shore where there's a small man-made harbor. From there, head to the wooden boathouse and take the 1-mile (one way) South Landing Trail north. It follows the track of the old tramway across the island.

Passing through an old growth forest, you'll be amazed by the size of the trees. A brief section of the trail also runs alongside a bog.

The route is fairly flat, starting at 638 feet above sea level at the harbor, rising and dropping a half-dozen feet a couple of times, and finally ending at the light station, which sits at 628 feet atop a stout bluff overlooking Lake Superior.

Last built
Devils Island was the last of the Apostle Island light stations constructed.

In 1891, a red brick, two-story Queen Anne-style keeper's dwelling and a steam fog signal building were completed, but a temporary tower of wooden timbers housed the station’s non-blinking red light.

During 1897, a two-story, brick and shingle house was erected for the assistant keeper as construction began on a permanent tower, an 82-foot high cast iron cylinder. Though the tower was completed the following year, a lens didn't arrive for three more.

Lake Superior's high winds frequently shook the new tower, sometimes extinguishing the lamp. During 1914, external braces were added to stabilize the cylinder.

Just as Devils Island was the last light station built, so it was the last one to be manned. The Coast Guard kept a five-man crew on the island until the station was automated in 1978. Today the light can be seen up to 13 miles away.

Also at the light station are a dock, two oil houses, a radio beacon, a tramway, and a brownstone tramway engine building.

Other trails
In addition to the light station, three other trails can be explored.

Two are alternate landing sites to the southern shore's harbor. The 0.5-miles West Landing Trail links a boat landing at a rocky ledge on the island’s northwest corner with the lighthouse. The 0.05-miles East Landing Trail runs from a rock ledge on the island's northeast corner to the lighthouse.

In addition, a 0.4-mile looping nature trail runs west of the lighthouse through the forest. Part of it rambles along the island's northwestern corner.

During summer, a volunteer lightkeeper usually staffs the station with tours of the tower available between 9-11 a.m. and 1-4 p.m.

See two lighthouses – and Wisconsin’s tallest – in Apostle Islands day hike

The new and currently active Michigan Island
Lighthouse.

Map of Michigan Island Lighthouse grounds/hike. Click for
larger version.

Day hikers can see two lighthouses – one of which isn’t supposed to be there – on Wisconsin’s Michigan Island.

The Michigan Island lighthouses sit on the easternmost of the Apostle Islands. To reach the island, you’ll need to take a private boat. The dock for the island sits at the base of the bluff for the Michigan Island Lighthouse. Ascend the 142 steps to the lighthouse; gear and supplies can be pulled up on a cable car using a winch.

You’ll first spot the currently active and taller of the two lighthouse. A skeletal steel tower with a central column, it rises 118 feet above the island’s southeast corner. Constructed in 1929, its original light could be seen for up to 22 miles. Since erected in 1929, it has been Wisconsin’s tallest lighthouse.

Original lighthouse
To the new tower’s southeast sits the original tower at a low 52 feet and 5 inches. Made of rough stone, the conical tower’s exterior walls are stuccoed and whitewashed and part of the one-and-a-half-story keeper’s dwelling.

Now known as the Old Michigan Island Lighthouse, it has been on the island since 1857 – but only because of a mix-up. The structure was to have been built on nearby Long Island to guide ships to the port at LaPointe, but a last minute change by a field rep caused its location to be moved to Michigan Island. The original Michigan Island station operated for only a year before the Lighthouse Service ordered the contractor to build the lighthouse on the correct island.

In 1869, government authorities decided a Michigan Island lighthouse would benefit navigation, after all. The vacant pre-Civil War lighthouse, however, had deteriorated in Lake Superior’s harsh weather conditions, so it was repaired.

Forty-years later, a taller lighthouse was deemed necessary. The 1880 cylindrical steel tower known as Schooner's Ledge light on the Delaware River near Philadelphia was disassembled and hauled to Michigan Island in 1919. For a decade, though, it sat on the beach awaiting assembly.

One of six historic lighthouses in the Apostle Islands, the Michigan Island site underwent some moderate repairs in late 2012. The public now can access the lighthouse and see exhibits related to it; park volunteers usually offer tours in late morning and early afternoon.

Michigan Island Trail
After taking in the grounds, you can hike the island just as the lighthouse keepers did for decades. The trailhead for the 1.6-mile round trip Michigan Island Trail begins on an unmarked path behind the lighthouse keeper’s home, winding into a second growth woods away from Lake Superior’s open waters. The trail runs northwest down glacial till through some low-lying and even marshy areas.

In a quarter mile, you’ll reach a beach on the island’s western shore. In the distance is Presque Isle Point, which is part of neighboring Stockton Island.

Turn left/southwest for a walk along the beach, where driftwood and shells are ubiquitous. A marsh sits inland, separated from the beach by brush. Blue herons frequent the marsh.

After 0.55 miles, the beach reaches a primitive campsite on a sandspit sitting at the island’s southwest end. Fires are allowed at the site, and boats can be moored there.

Michigan Island beach
If feeling adventurous, extend the hike by taking the beach as it curves along the island’s southern shore. The remains of an old fishing camp with a broken boat are in 0.4 miles. Heavy brush and storm-tossed tree trunks makes the beach a difficult walk back to the lighthouses, however, so rather than making a loop consider returning on the route that you came.

Definitely bring insect repellent if hiking in summer. Also be aware that Lake Superior’s storms can leave you stranded on the island for two or three days at a time, so if camping carry enough supplies.

Wis. trail heads to beach with singing sand

Julian Bay Beach on Stockton Island. NPS photo.

Julian Bay Trail map. Click for larger version.

Day hikers can walk across singing sand on Julian Bay Beach in Wisconsin’s Apostle Islands.

The 1.8-mile round trip trail sits on Stockton Island, a popular summer destination in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. Stockton is northeast of Hermit Island, directly north of Madeline Island, and northwest of Michigan Island on Lake Superior.

Stockton Island boasts 14 miles of maintained day hiking trails that head along beautiful bays, through majestic pines, and across the singing beach. To reach the island, you’ll have to charter a boat or sail your own. There’s a dock at Presque Isle Point near the Stockton Island Visitor Center. From the dock, the Julian Bay Trail heads northeast past interesting rock formations along a cliffside.

Be sure to pick up a trail booklet at the visitor center to learn about the variety of plant communities you’ll pass. Despite the island’s small size, it sports a diverse array of flora and fauna. More than 430 plant species has been identified here. For wildlife, expect to see at least signs of beaver, black bear, fox, otter, and whitetail deer.

On the trail
At 0.1 miles from the trailhead, the dirt path heads through a stand of 200-year-old yellow birch. To survive so long, the birch first had to escape the lumberjack’s ax and then elude several forest fires on the island.

Thanks to the forest canopy, the trail is mostly shaded. The lack of sunlight allows ferns to dominate the forest floor at about 0.2 miles in.

Sugar, red and mountain maple all have replaced the white pines that stood here before they were logged off decades ago. It makes for a colorful autumn walk.

Past the maples, the elevation dips a bit and enters a marshy area. Balsam fir, cedar, and eastern hemlock dominate the wetter soil.

When the trees switch to spruce and white pine, you’re close to the beach. These hardier trees are able to withstand the fierce storm winds blowing off the lake from the northeast.

Julian Bay Beach
The trail turns rocky as it descends and passes a bog. The bog is slowly filling in, allowing blueberry, huckleberry, laurel and rosemary to take root at its edges.

On the other side of the bog is a forested sand dune that has stabilized. A stand of red pine rises from it.

The trail next arrives at the beach. You’ll want to take off your shoes as the sand “sings” when walked upon.

Exactly why the sand makes a high-pitched squeaking sound is unclear, though there are theories. What is known is that sand grains must be fairly spherical, between 0.1 and 0.5 mm in diameter, contain quartz, be at a certain humidity, and be pollution-free. If you don’t want to take off your shoes, no worries – you also can create the sound by rubbing your palm against the sand.

Wisconsin's only tombolo
Julian Bay Beach actually is the convergence of two sand bars for two separate islands that joined thanks to Lake Superior’s wave action. Presque Isle used to be the southeastern part of Stockton Island as recently as 3000 BC., about the time construction of Stonehenge began and the ancient Egyptians starting using papyrus. Today the beach stretches 1.5 miles around the crescent-shaped bay.

The sand bridge beach between the two islands is called a tombolo, and Julian Bay Beach is Wisconsin’s only one.

In the distance beyond the sands are great views of two other Apostle islands. To the southwest is Madeline Island, and to the southeast is Michigan Island.

To return to the dock, take the Anderson Point Trail along the edge of the former Presque Isle. The trail heads through 1.4-miles of old growth hemlocks that parallels the point’s rocky shoreline. The dark red sandstone you’ll see along the way is called brownstone, which once was widely quarried in northern Wisconsin.

Trail explores Northern Highland forest

A lily blooms in the Hay Creek-Hoffman Lake State
Wildlife Area.

Holts Landing Heights Trail topo map. Click for larger map/

A primitive hiking experience awaits on the Holts Landing Heights Trail in the Wisconsin Northwoods.

The 1.2-mile trail sits in the Hay Creek-Hoffman Lake State Wildlife Area. It’s not the trail’s official name, but is so christened here as none of the in the wildlife area’s walking paths have official names.

To reach the trailhead, from Butternut, take Wis. Hwy. 13 south. In Park Falls, go left/east on Wis. Hwy. 182. Turn left/north onto Old Wisconsin 182 then right/northeast onto Blackhouse Lake Road. When the road veers right/east at a four-way intersection, go straight/north onto Hoffman Lake Road (sometimes referred to as Huffman Lake Road on maps). In roughly 4.5 miles, just before the road curves nearly 90 degrees to the east, is the trailhead. Park alongside the road.

Northwoods wildlife
The trail heads northeast into the woods. Common tress you’ll see there are aspen, basswood, hemlock, red pine, sugar maple, white pine, and yellow birch.

That mix of trees and the wildlife area’s size at 13,800-acres makes a perfect habitat for a variety of animals. Whitetail deer, ruffed grouse, woodcock, and black bear all can be spotted. Beaver also can be seen on the wildlife area’s many flowages.

At about 0.2 miles, the trail reaches a fork. Go left/northwest. This heads toward the Flambeau River, which sits about 20 feet lower than the heights where the trail runs. The road separates the trail from the river, so it remains out if sight from the trail. Holts Landing provides access on the river’s opposite shoreline.

The trail crosses a typical Northern Highland terrain, or what most in Wisconsin affectionately refer to as “the Northwoods” or “up north.” The Northern Highland covers close to a third of the state and more than half of Ashland County.

In about 0.4 miles, the trail reaches the road. Turn right/east onto it.

Shaped by glaciers
Hundreds of millions of years ago, the Northern Highland was a mountain range with peaks as high as those found in today’s Alps and Rocky Mountains. Erosion over the eons flattened the mountains, but the area remains at a higher elevation than the rest of the state. Indeed, nearby Timms Hill in Price County is the state’s highest point.

In a little more than 0.5 miles, watch for a trail that re-enters the woods on the right/south. Head back into the forest.

Today, the Northern Highland terrain largely is shaped by a glacier covering it as recently as 10,000 years ago. Many kettle lakes formed when chunks of glacier were left behind and melted in the bowls their weight created. Much of the soil here is sediment from glacial outwash that easily forms bogs.

The result is the area makes for poor farmland. Given this, the state in 1946 began purchasing land for the wildlife area to create a “deer yard” at a time when the whitetail’s population was far lower than now.

Hunting on trail
In addition to recreation such as hiking, snowshoeing and berry-picking, the wildlife area is popular among hunters. Hikers are best to avoid the trail in November during the prime deer hunting season.

The trail next curls around a small knoll then meanders northwest. In 0.9 miles, it reaches the stem trail you began the hike on. Go left/southwest back to your vehicle.

Be forewarned: Trails are not particularly maintained, so they quickly overgrow here. Early spring or in autumn after a freeze often is the best time to hike any of the trails in the state wildlife area. Because of this, pants and long-sleeved shirts, quality hiking boots, and a good dose of insect repellent are recommended.

Trail offers chance to spot Wisconsin elk

Day hikers have a chance to see rare elk in Wisconsin’s Northwoods on the Dead Horse Run Trail.

The Dead Horse Run, an ATV trail system in the Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest, runs 56 miles long. With its vastness, you’ll surely find many segments that can be day hiked without the noise of any ATVs; in addition, the trail is closed to ATV use from March 15 to April 30, so any of those warm, dry days during an early spring is perfect for a hike.

One such segment heads from the Dead Horse Slough Trailhead in the Clam Lake area. It runs 4.3 miles one-way or 8.6 miles round trip.

To reach the trailhead, from Clam Lake head east on Wis. Hwy. 77. A little more than two miles out of town, next to the Dead Horse Slough’s east shore, is small gravel parking lot on the road’s north side.

The trail and slough’s name comes from an early 1900s tragedy when a team of horses broke through ice on the waterbody. The team never was recovered.

A trailhead at the lot’s northeast corner heads into a forest of maple, aspen, oak and birch ideal for fox, racoon, rabbits, and of course, white-tailed deer. Expect to see at least signs of such wildlife and others on the trail.

This forest also a great environment for elk, whose primary habitat used is dominated by aspens and with forest openings and ponds or lakes. Because of that, in 1995, Wisconsin reintroduced Rocky Mountain elk in this part of the state. Today, the Clam Lake herd is estimated at around 200 members.

Before the arrival of Euro-Americans, elk could be found all across Wisconsin. Conversion of land to agriculture limited the elk’s range, though, and overhunting finished them off by the late 1800s. An attempt to bring back elk in the 1930s failed due to poaching.

Elk are an impressive sight to behold. A bull elk can reach up to 700 pounds and stand five-feet high at the shoulder; its antlers can take up to 40 pounds of that weight. Cows are slightly smaller at 500 pounds and 4-1/2 feet at the shoulder. Elk typically feed on grasses and forbs but in winter will turn to shrubs, tree bark, and twigs.

Heading northeast, the Dead Horse Run Trail mostly parallels the peculiarly named Dingdong Creek. Located on snowmobile trails, the Dead Horse Run mostly is wide at 14-feet, to accommodate ATVs.

Upon reaching Forest Road 182, turn back. If backpacking, you can continue on, however; the trail loops south and intersects the Tuscobia State Trail just west of Park Falls. Throughout its course, the Dead Horse Run links to Stock Farm Bridge Campground and ATV routes leading to Glidden and Cayuga.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

North Country segment passes hemlocks

Lesser purple fringed orchid grows in wet, shaded woods, like those
found along the North Country Trail in Wisconsin.

Map of Chequamegon Hardwoods State Natural Area, courtesy WI DNR.
Click for larger version.

Day hikers can explore a northern Wisconsin forest with massive old growth hemlock trees and wildflowers galore below them on a segment of the North Country National Scenic Trail.

The segment runs 2.2-mile round trip through the contiguous Chequamegon National Forest and the Chequamegon Hardwoods State Natural Area. Stretching from New York to North Dakota, the North Country Trail crosses seven states over a 4600-mile course.

To reach the trail segment, from Mellen, Wis., drive west on County Road GG. Once inside the Chequamegon National Forest, turn right/north onto Forest Road 187. Then turn right/northeast onto Forest Road 188, which as veering east becomes Hanson Road. After passing the Beaver Dam Lake Road intersection, watch for where the North Country National Scenic Trail crosses the road. At the crossing, park off the side of the road and take the trail northeast.

Basswood forest
The trail heads through a northern mesic forest in which basswood, red oak, sugar maple, white ash and yellow birch dominate. Below it grow alternate-leaved dogwood, beaked hazelnut, and mountain maple. Beneath that shrub layer, more than 80 plant species can be found, including bloodroot, Jack-in-the-pulpit, bellwort, blue cohosh, nodding trillium, lesser purple fringed orchid, spikenard, spotted coralroot orchid, and green adders’-mouth.

Among the first of the wildflowers to bloom here in spring is bloodroot. Sometimes it pops up from soil that has just thawed. It sports a large white flower, about 1.5 inches wide, with 8-10 petals and a yellow center. The red orange juice in its stem has been used over the centuries as a dye and an insect repellent. It grows all across Wisconsin.

Jack-in-the-pulpit also blooms in spring. Its erect 2- to 3-inch long flower sits inside a green or purple hood at the top of a single stalk. American Indians cooked its below ground stem as food, so it's sometimes referred to as Indian turnip. The plant contains calcium oxalate crystals, however, so no part of it above ground is edible, as it causes a burning sensation in the mouth.

Large-leaved bellwort, also called merrybells, blooms in spring as well. Its drooping bell-shaped yellow flower is about 1-2 inches long with up to six petals. The long-leaved is one of two bellworts that grow in Wisconsin; four other species grow in eastern North America. Its found throughout the state.

Nodding trillium, purple fringed orchid
Blue cohosh, a 1-3-foot high bush, also flowers in spring. A cluster of yellow-green flowers with six petals sits atop the plant, which grows throughout Wisconsin. Don’t eat its blue berries, which are poisonous.

Blooming from spring into summer is the nodding trillium. The flower is a whorl of three wavy white petals that droops beneath the plant’s leaves. Don’t pick any part of this plant as the leaves then may not be able to produce enough sugar and starch for a bloom to appear the following year. It’s one of seven trillium species that grows throughout Wisconsin.

Among the sweetly fragrant flowers is the lesser purple fringed orchid. The lavender to rose six-parted flower is about three-quarters of an inch long. They forma dense, spike-like cluster. The flower blooms from June to August. It is found in most Wisconsin counties.

Spikenard blooms June to August. Though the plant can grow 2-4 feet tall, its greenish-white flowers are tiny and form parasol-shaped clusters. The plant really stands out in autumn when the pollinated flowers transform into dense groups of rich burgundy fruits. Birds enjoy these fruits, but for humans they are inedible. Spikenard is found throughout Wisconsin.

Coralroot orchid, maidenhair fern
Spotted coralroot orchid blooms from mid-June to mid-August. Each white flower sports purple spots and is not quite a half-inch long. Several of the flowers grow on a single stalk Though the plant reaches up to 31 inches high, it has no leaves. It is found in a majority of Wisconsin counties, mainly those in the Northwoods and along Lake Michigan.

Green adders’-mouth flowers from July to mid-August. A small orchid, its teensy green blooms are only millimeters wide and long. Each plant produces about 20 to 50 flowers. Exactly which insect pollinates it is unknown, but scientists suspect small flies, like fungus gnats, play a role.

The blue-green maidenhair fern often provides cover for and around these many wildflowers in this part of the forest.

At about 0.4 miles, the trail unceremoniously enters the state natural area’s southeast corner. Though originally logged off in the 1930s, large old-growth hemlock and big-tooth aspen both still can be found here; some old-growth hemlocks boast a diameter of five feet. Scattered gabbro rock outcroppings, some of which are up to 50 feet high, also can be found in the state natural area.

The trail departs the state natural area in little more than 0.1 miles. You’ll know you’ve left, as the route passes a wet area once you’ve re-entered the national forest.

Second-growth forest
Black ash, red maple, and white cedar are common on this wet-mesic forest portion of the route. Amphibians, including the red-backed salamander and wood frog, are here as well.

The rest of the trail is dry as it runs east through the northern mesic forest. The variety of trees in this second-growth forest makes for a colorful walk in autumn.

About 0.3 miles from the wetlands are a pair of knolls that mark the two high points along the trail. They top out at 1535 (the westernmost knoll) and 1538 feet (the easternmost) above sea level.

The trail’s crossing of North York Road marks a good spot to turn back. Alternately, this makes a great point-to-point hike if you have a driver disinterested in hiking.

Five best hikes for exploring Ashland WI

Copper Falls State Park/ Photo courtesy of Wisconsin DNR.

Located along Lake Superior in northcentral Wisconsin, Ashland County is an outdoor recreational paradise. During summers, bicyclists and off-road vehicle enthusiasts explore a number of wooded trails while fishermen cast lines on freshwater lakes and campers set up tents across a sprawling national forest. Come autumn, the roads turn busy with drivers enjoying the colorful blaze of autumn leaves lining the countryside. Throughout winter, snowshoers, cross country skiers and snowmobilers sail across white paths while ice fishing shacks pop up on frozen lakes. And, of course, day and backcountry hikers alike during three seasons enjoy the county’s hundreds of miles of trails, some routes well-groomed and others primitive, but all rambling through fabulous scenery.

Four major attractions await day hikers and backpackers in the loosely L-shaped Ashland County. The massive Chequamegon National Forest covers about a third of the county, filling up the southwest corner. A number of campsites can be found in the forest, which boasts the granite rock formation St. Peter’s Dome and Wisconsin’s second highest waterfalls, Morgan Falls. Just slightly above above the county’s center sits Copper Falls State Park, which offers dramatic waterfalls and cascades over ancient lava flows. The 4600-mile North Country National Scenic Trail winds its way through the county, primarily in the national forest with a spur running through the state park. Lastly, the county’s northern portion includes the Lake Superior shoreline and Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, the latter of which consists of 21 protected islands that only can be reached by boat in the world’s largest freshwater lake.

Among the best trails to see these attractions and experience Ashland County are:
Chequamegon-Nicolet National Forest
• Morgan Falls St. Peter’s Dome Trail
• Black Lake Trail
Copper Falls State Park
• Doughboys’ Nature Trail
North Country National Scenic Trail
• Copper Falls State Park segments
Apostle Islands National Lakeshore
• Michigan Island Trail
• Stockton Island Trails

Read more about family friendly day hiking trails in my Headin' to the Cabin guidebooks.

Array of trails crisscross Ashland WI region

Sunset from observation tower at Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center near
Ashland, Wis. Photo courtesy of Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center.

Imagine a place where you can hike sandy beaches and enjoy fantastic vistas of the world’s largest freshwater lake, a place of towering pines that bald eagles fly over and black bears scamper beneath, a place where you can explore sea caves or hike across billion-year-old red rock. The place is real – it’s called Bayfield County, Wisconsin.

If Wisconsin were a mitten, Bayfield County would be the peak of the four fingers. With much of it a peninsula, it boasts more shoreline on Lake Superior than any other Wisconsin county. It also offers dozens of miles of trails for those who love hiking.

Part of the city of Ashland spills into Bayfield County, and often travelers on their way to Bayfield or Madeline Island pass through the town.

It offers excellent access to Chequamegon Bay via an urban hiking trail and is a short distance from the Chequamegon National Forest. In addition, one end of the Tri-County Trail, a former railroad bed converted to hiking trail that runs through Bayfield County to Superior, starts in Ashland.

The city’s highlight in Bayfield County is the Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center, which offers exhibits, demonstrations, and a trail, all dedicated to fostering an understanding of Lake Superior’s natural history and man’s interaction with the largest of the Great Lakes.

Popular day hiking trails in the Ashland area include:
g Doughboys’ Trail (Copper Falls State Park)
g Interpretive Boardwalk Trail (Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center)
g Morgan Falls St. Peters Dome Trail (Chequamegon National Forest)
g North Country National Scenic Trail (Copper Falls State Park)
g Roundup of Ashland County trails

Read more about day hiking Bayfield County in my Hittin’ the Trail: Day Bayfield County, Wisconsin guidebook.

Great hiking trails surround Ashland, Wis.

Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center. Photo courtesy of Roilbroil /Wikipedia.

Bayfield County ranks among Wisconsin’s most popular tourism destinations, attracting skiers, boaters, campers and sightseers. It also offers dozens of miles of trails for those who love hiking.

Consisting mainly of forestland and lakeshore, each Bayfield County village feels like a quaint throwback to years past. Only one of them boasts a population close to 3000 people.

Ten villages and towns can be found there, with the majority of them hugging the lakeshore or a county line. Among them is Ashland.

While most of this city of 8,600-plus people sits in Ashland County, a bit of it crosses over into Bayfield County. The town curves about Chequamegon Bay and was once a major port from which ore shipped out of. A major draw today to the town today is the Northern Great Lakes Visitor Center, which is in Bayfield County.

Popular day hiking trails in the Ashland area include:
g Doughboys’ Trail (Copper Falls State Park)
g Morgan Falls St. Peters Dome Trail (Chequamegon National Forest)
g North Country National Scenic Trail (Copper Falls State Park)
g Roundup of Ashland area trails

Read more about day hiking Bayfield County in my Hittin’ the Trail: Day Bayfield County, Wisconsin guidebook.

Waterfalls, Lake Superior lighthouse headline Ashland County day hikes

The Michigan Island lighthouse dates to 1856. Photo courtesy of  Apostle
Islands NPS.

Day hikers can enjoy a plethora of trails at three major outdoors attractions in Ashland County, which sits in northcentral Wisconsin along Lake Superior.

Covering close to a quarter of the county’s land area is the Chequamegon National Forest. To the forest’s northeast is Copper Falls State Park, which offers a number of geologic wonders, including waterfalls. To the north are the Apostle Islands, which boasts beautiful Big Bay State Park on Madeline Island and a number of other trails in the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.

Among some great trails to enjoy in the county are:
g Bay View Trail – Incredible views of Lake Superior await hikers traveling to Big Bay State Park. The park sits on Madeline Island, the largest of the famous 22 Apostle Islands. Taking the Bay View Trail along with a border a self-guided interpretive trail afford hikers a 5-mile round trip, though this can be cut in half if turning around at the boardwalk.
g Doughboys’ Nature Trail – Hikers can tour Wisconsin’s geological history in some of the most breathtaking scenery this side of the Mississippi on Doughboys’ Nature Trail at Copper Falls State Park. The 1.7-mile loop follows the Bad River and Tyler Forks past Copper and Brownstone waterfalls and a series of cascades.
g Michigan Island Trail – To reach Michigan Island, the easternmost of the Apostle Islands is Michigan Island, you’ll need to take a private boat. The dock for the island sits at the base of the bluff for the Michigan Island lighthouse on the island’s southeast corner. Ascend the 142 steps to the lighthouse, which dates to 1856, then set on the 1.6-mile (round trip) trail.
g Morgan Falls St. Peter’s Dome Trail – An 80-foot waterfall and impressive vista with views 20 miles around await hikers on this trail in the Chequamegon National Forest. The first 0.6 miles of the trail heads to Morgan Falls (for a 1.2 mile round trip), or you can continue another 1.2 miles to the top of St. Peter’s Dome (for a 3.6-miles round trip).
g Waterfront Trail – This 10-mile trail loops around Ashland, passing through several parks and a beach along the way. A scenic segment runs along the Lake Superior shoreline from Maslowski Beach to Howard Pearson Plaza for about two miles one way.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Variety of trails explore Wisconsin’s beautiful Madeline Island

Big Bay Lagoon in Big Bay State Park. Photo courtesy of Wikimedia.

Three public
areas offer
hiking paths

Impressive Lake Superior vistas, beach walks, and old logging roads await day hikers on Madeline Island in northern Wisconsin.

The largest of the 22 Apostle Islands, Madeline Island offers three major parks – Big Bay State Park, the Madeline Island Wilderness Preserve (for which a north and a south unit exist), and Big Bay Town Park – each with trails. Most reach the island via a ferry ride from Bayfield, Wis., but other boat docking and even air transportation is available.

Among Madeline Island’s major trails are:
g Bay View Trail – Incredible views of Lake Superior await hikers on this Big Bay State Park trail. Adding the Boardwalk Trail on the sand spit turns this into a 5-mile round trip, though that can be cut in half if turning around at the boardwalk.
g Big Bay Town Park Trail – The trail heads east from the park entry road to a bridge that connects with a sand spit and beach along Big Bay. The beach trail can be followed south for about 0.2 miles to Big Bay State Park and then extended by connecting with the aforementioned Boardwalk Trail.
g Capser Trail – The 2-mile one-way trail runs between a parking area on Middle Road/Chebomnicon Road and County Road H/Big Bay Road in the Madeline Island Wilderness Preserve as part of the Madeline Island Ski & Hiking Trail South Section. A stem trail leads to an observation deck overlooking a wetlands.
g Lagoon Ridge Trail – The 2.6-mile round trip trail heads from Lake Superior around Big Bay Lagoon to a camping area on Big Bay State Park’s northern side. A good portion of it runs atop a ridge overlooking the lagoon and the Great Lake.
g North End Trail – Logging roads and old survey lines have been reclaimed as a trail that with its side loop runs up to 7 miles long in the Madeline Island Wilderness Preserve. Three trailheads access the collection of loops and stems that also are collectively known as the Madeline Island Ski & Hiking Trail North Section.
g Nucy Meech Trail – The Capser Trail can be extended 0.85 miles by taking this narrow path in the Madeline Island Wilderness Preserve’s southern unit. It’s being used to monitor the spread of buckthorn, barberry and other invasive species on the island.
g Point Trail and Point Trail Loop – Point Trail and a portion of the Point Trail Loop skirt the Lake Superior shoreline with a beach area for a 1.7-mile hike in Big Bay State Park. Access the trail from the parking lot for the Point Picnic Area.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Wonders abound on North Country Trail

Brownstone Falls. Photo courtesy of Wisconsin DNR.

Walk runs past
park’s highlights 

Waterfalls, Northwoods lakes, and sandstone ledges await day hikers on a segment of the North Country National Scenic Trail in Wisconsin’s Copper Falls State Park.

The segment is perhaps among the most scenic 2.5 miles of the trail that stretches across seven states from New York to North Dakota. In Wisconsin, the trail bisects Copper Falls State Park from north to south for about 4 miles one-way, entering at the park’s southern tip near Wis. Hwy. 169, passing the east side of Loon Lake, running by both Copper and Brownstone falls, and then exiting in the park’s northern backcountry.

An excellent (and at 5-miles round trip a shortened) segment of the trail that includes most of the park’s highlights runs from from Loon Lake to the Sandstone Ledges.

To reach the park, from Mellen, Wis., take Hwy. 169 north to the park entrance; leave your vehicle at the lot for the Loon Lake swimming beach. The North Country Trail can be picked up at the lot’s northeast corner, but before doing so, head down to the beach for a view of Loon Lake.

A popular destination at the park, Loon Lake offers a sand beach, swimming area, and canoe launch. Fishermen often be spotted vying for largemouth bass, northern pike and panfish there.

From the parking lot, the trail heads due north, paralleling but set back from the park entrance road. Upon crossing the road to the Group Camp area, Murphy Lake is on the left/west. While pretty in its own right, the lake at 8 acres is smaller than Loon Lake. A stream links Murphy Lake to the Bad River.

Two waterfalls
From there, the trail heads north through the park’s heart, following the Bad River’s eastern shore. An ancient waterway, the Bad River began flowing some 200 million years ago when dinosaurs walked the earth. Today, it rises out of southwestern end of Caroline Lake on the Ashland/Iron counties border and flows some 74 miles across before draining into Lake Superior.

The trail next crosses the picnic area. The manicured lawns are worth the walk through for beyond it and the footbridge over the Bad River, the trail passes three of the park’s major features – Copper Falls, Brownstone Falls, and the Cascades.

The 29-foot Copper Falls is the first of many drops the Bad River takes in the park. The river canyon runs over 1 billion-year-old lava rock. The black walls rise between 60-100 feet above the swirling water with white cedar trees lining the gorge.

As the trail veers east, it follows the Tyler Forks River. First, though, is Brownstone Falls, over which the Tyler Forks plummets into the Bad River. The base of the Tyler Forks is a hard red lava edge.

Upstream from Brownstone Falls is the Cascades, a series of small drops and boulder-strewn waterway, The Tyler Forks is slowly cutting back a drop in the black basalt, and one day a new waterfall will form there.

Devil's Gate
The trail then crosses the Tyler Forks via a footbridge and heads northwest, affording another view of the Cascades and then Brownstone Falls. After the falls, it continues up the Bad River to the Devil’s Gate.

At Devil’s Gate, the Bad River flows over conglomerate rocks left by ancient streams. The canyon walls show different layers of sediment sitting almost on their sides as the ground settled and hard lavas shifted upward.

The trail next angles northward, crossing Little Creek, a tributary of the Bad River. After 2.25 miles, the trail reaches a spur that leads to the Sandstone Legdes.

The ledges formed when an inland sea covered this section of world hundreds of millions of years ago. As sediment collected at the sea’s bottom, it hardened over the eons into rock. Today, the exposed rock offers some nice views of the Bad River and make for a good rest stop.

After taking in the ledges, return the way you came and enjoy the sights all over again! Alternately, you can be picked up in the picnic area, as the park road dead ends there.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Discover history of fishing on Manitou Island via day hikes

Manitou Island campsite. Photo courtesy of Apostle Islands NPS.

A historic fish camp, hemlock groves, and an ancient fishing site await day hikers on Manitou Island in northern Wisconsin’s Apostle Islands National Lakeshore.

The island’s two trails both begin at the dock for the Manitou Fish Camp; a boat is the only way to reach the island. Manitou Fish Camp can be found on the island’s southwestern corner, where a strait runs between Oak and Manitou islands.

The fish camp consists of five wooden cabins restored to how they looked when Great Lakes fishermen used them during the 1930s-1950s. Their living quarters and much of their equipment remains there for public view. A park service volunteer often is available during summer to give tours.

From the fish camp, the Campsite Trail runs 2 miles and follows the west shore through several hemlock groves en route to the island’s only campsite. The evergreen is at the extreme northwestern limit of its range here.

Across the stait northwest of the trail is Otter Island. Excellent views of the strait and island are available at the campsite.

The Archeological Site Trail rambles for 0.75 mile to a viewpoint at the south tip of the island. It is near the site of a prehistoric Native American fishing camp. Oak Island is to the trail’s southwest, and at the viewpoint Stockton Island is to the southeast.

Just as who fished on the island and their rtechnology changed, so the name given to Manitou Island as evolved over the centuries. In the 1820s, maps referred to it as New Jersey Island and then in the 1870s as Tait Island.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Trail heads to cascades over red granite rocks at Wisconsin park

Red Granite Falls. Photo courtesy of Markheffron2 / Wikipedia.

Great autumn hike
awaits Copper
Falls S.P. visitors

A river rapids over billion-year-old red-tinged rock awaits day hikers on the Red Granite Falls Trail in Wisconsin’s Copper Falls State Park.

The set of two loops, loosely shaped in a figure 8, runs 2.5-miles round trip to Red Granite Falls in the park’s southern corner. It’s also listed as the Red Trail on the park’s winter maps.

To reach the state park, from the village of Mellen take Wis. Hwy. 169 north. Enter the park by turning left onto Copper Falls Road, and park in the Loon Lake Beach lot. Head south to the beach and pick up the trailhead heading west.

A popular destination at the park, Loon Lake offers a sand beach, swimming area, and canoe launch. Fishermen often can be spotted vying for largemouth bass, northern pike and panfish there.

From the beach, the trail curves away from Loon Lake. It crosses a road and then intersects with a connecting trail going right/north. Shortly beyond that intersection, the trail enters its first loop; at that point, go right/west.

Because of the park’s diversity in trees, a great time to hike the trail is autumn. You’ll find the brilliant yellows of ironwood, paper birch and aspen, the blazing orange of sugar maple, and the scarlet of red oak mixed with the evergreen of hemlock and white pine. White cedars line the riverway.

Half-way through the loop, the trail reaches a connector linking the two loops. Head right/southwest onto the connector.

Wildlife aplenty
With all of the tree cover, you’re likely to spot and certainly see the signs of a variety of animals, including white-tailed deer, porcupines, fishers, raccoons, black bears, wood frogs, and red squirrels. Up to 200 bird species migrate through the park during spring and fall; northern ravens, great pileated woodpecker, chickadees, ruffed grouse, eagles, and loons are common. Each June and July, banded purple and tiger swallowtail butterflies descend upon the woodlands.

When the connector reaches the second loop, go right/west. You’re a little more than half-way on the loop to the Bad River once you pass beneath the power line. As the trail curves south, you’ll find yourself on the river’s shores.

More of a rapids than a falls, at Red Granite the Bad River tumbles over boulders alongside the trail. Though slippery, older children with adults can safely walk onto some of the rocks in the rapids.

Red Granite Falls owes its existence to lava flows from a billion years ago. For the past 200 million years, the Bad River has ran, except during glaciation, over the hardened lava or the sediment above it.

Winter use
In addition to the great geological scenery, the Bad River is an excellent place to fish for rainbow, brown and brook trout.

When the trail curves east away from the river, you’re on the route way back. To ensure you hike the parts of the loops not done on the way in, always go right at the trail intersections.

During winter, the trail is rolled with a snowmobile for snowshoeing and cold weather hiking. Cross country skiing also is allowed.

One final note: If you have a four-legged friend in your family: Dogs are welcomed on the trail, even during winter.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Best trails for seeing wonders of Wisconsin’s Big Bay State Park

Boardwalk Trail

Among the best ways to see the top sights in Wisconsin’s Big Bay State Park is via a day hike. Just three short trails will allow you to enjoy each of the park’s highlights – fantastic Lake Superior views, a romantic sunset, and a barrier beach pine forest.

Lake Superior views
Stretching for 31,700 square miles east and north of Madeline Island is Lake Superior, the world's largest freshwater lake, at least by surface area. Point Trail and a portion of the Point Trail Loop skirt the shoreline with a beach area for a 1.7-mile hike.

Romantic sunset
On a clear evening, the sunset casts Lake Superior in a golden glow that darkens with the sky from orange to purple to midnight blue, a perfect hour to spend with your loved one. Though facing east, the 1.3-mile Bay View Trail marks a good location to cuddle and watch Mother Nature’s free light show.

Barrier beach pine forest
Barrier beaches are common along the Atlantic coastline, and a microcosm of one with its own forest of red and white pines sits on Madeline Island. The 0.5-mile Boardwalk Trail heads through the woodlands on Big Bay Sand Spit.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.