Turn long Grand Canyon trails into day hikes

Grand Canyon National Park

This blog entry by Hikes with Tykes author Rob Bignell originally appeared in Seattle Backpackers Magazine.

The Grand Canyon is one of those rare landscapes that humbles a soul.

Its immense size – 6000 feet deep from rim to canyon floor at its deepest, 18 miles across from rim to rim at its widest – appears unreal to most visitors. Then there’s the unfathomable age of the rock, up to 2 billion years old. Or simply watch the ever-shifting light as the canyon’s mood rotates through the day, ranging from the mystical, multiple hues of sunrise and sunset, to the utterly stark harshness of its brilliantly lit desert walls at high noon.

Many of the national park’s trails head into the backcountry by going up and down steep canyon sides, offering fantastic adventures for backpackers. That’s not so great for families, especially with small children, though, who often find themselves limited to the crowded paved rim trails. Still, a small segment of any of those backcountry trails can be done as a day hike.

Primary among them on the South Rim is the Grandview Trail. A segment of it can be done as a 2.2-mile round trip day hike, but you’ll need to be in shape, and any children with you should be on your back or in their teens.

Following the western side of the ridge that extends northeast of Grandview Point, the trail quickly descends into the canyon. Logs and cobblestones make up the trail’s base during many sections.

Hikers first pass through Kaibab Limestone, formed some 245 million years ago during the Permian Era. This 300-feet thick layer of white to yellow rock once sat at the bottom of a warm, shallow sea that was much like today’s Caribbean.

About 1.1 miles from the rim, you’ll reach the Coconino Saddle, having descended 790 feet. The rock here formed about 270 million year ago. The impressive view below is of the upper valley of Hance Creek. Given the elevation you must hike to reach the rim, this marks a good turnaround point for day hikers.

On the North Rim, the North Kaibab Trail is the only maintained trail into the canyon. Day hike about 500 feet down in elevation, which alone is a steep trail at a high altitude covering about a 1.5-mile round trip. Children again will have to be on your back or older teens.

The trail descends from a montane forest, consisting of aspen, Douglas fir and ponderosa pine, into Roaring Springs Canyon. Meltwater flowing down this side canyon feeds the Colorado River.

As the trail winds downward, you’ll have gone about 500 feet below the rim in 0.75 miles of walking. At that point is the Coconino Overlook, where an excellent view of Roaring Springs Canyon awaits.

Turning back at the overlook is a good idea for day hikers. If early in the day, you may want to consider going a little farther down to the Supai Tunnel. A man-made passageway through the rock, reaching the tunnel makes for a 1.8-mile hike and about 1440 feet below the rim. Go ahead and walk through the small tunnel to see the looming cliffs with pinyon and juniper ahead.

Some other backcountry trails that you can shorten into great family day hikes include:
g South Kaibab Trail – On the South Rim, take the Kaibab Trail Route shuttle bus to the trailhead, which is east of the village and south of Yaki Point. While the trail goes for up to six miles round trip, you may want to shorten this steep walk by stopping after 0.75 miles (for 1.5 miles round trip) at Ooh-ahh Point, which is less than 200 feet below the rim. At the point, you round Yaki Point for a suddenly expansive view of the eastern canyon.
g Ken Patrick Trail – A short segment of this 10-mile (one-way) trail on the North Rim can be done through a forested area. About a mile from the North Kaibab parking lot, you’ll reach the junction for the Uncle Jim Trail; turn back here for a two-mile round trip. For families with older teens, you might consider extending the hike by taking part of the Uncle Jim route. A lollipop trail, combined with the Ken Patrick it runs 5 miles through woodland to Uncle Jim Point, a canyon overlook.
g Widforss Trail – Walk about a half-mile through aspen groves to the North Rim’s edge for a one-mile round trip. You’ll find that this trail is much less busy than those in the lodge area or those at the end of Cape Royal Road. The walk can be extended for several miles; if going the full length, the Widforss runs up to five miles one way with 350 feet in elevation change.

Read more about day hiking the Grand Canyon in my Hittin the Trail: Day Hiking Grand Canyon National Park guidebook.

Select from three trails at North Kaibab

Coconino Overlook on North Kaibab Trail, looking into Roaring Springs
Canyon. Photo courtesy of Grand Canyon NPS.

A great set of day hiking trails on the Grand Canyon National Park’s North Rim start at the North Kaibab Trail trailhead.

After entering the park on Ariz. Hwy. 67, use the North Kaibab parking lot, which is immediately after the Forever Resorts Grand Canyon.

From there, you can choose among three trails:
g North Kaibab Trail – The North Kaibab is the only maintained trail into the canyon from the North Rim. Rather than hike all the way to the bottom – which would require an overnight stay – hike about 500 feet down in elevation, which alone is a steep trail at a high altitude covering about a 1.5-mile round trip. The turn back point is the Coconino Overlook, where an excellent view of Roaring Springs Canyon awaits. While the North Kaibab is well-maintained, it’s also very steep with long drop-offs. Because of this, you won’t want to take young children on the trail.
g Bridle Path – The 1.2-mile trail (2.4-miles round trip) links the North Kaibab trailheads to the Grand Canyon Lodge. It parallels Hwy. 67 and typically is taken by those staying at the lodge to the North Kaibab trailhead. For travelers not staying at the lodge and who have dogs, this is a great trail as pets on leashes are allowed.
g Ken Patrick Trail – A short segment of this 10-mile (one-way) trail can be done through a forested area. About a mile from the parking lot, you’ll reach the junction for the Uncle Jim Trail; turn back here for a two-mile round trip. For families with older teens, you might consider extending the hike by taking part of the Uncle Jim route. A lollipop trail, combined with the Ken Patrick it runs five miles through woodland to Uncle Jim Point, a canyon overlook. To shorten the trip, go right where the trail’s loop begins; it’s then a little more than three miles when combined with the Ken Patrick.

Read more about day hiking the Grand Canyon in my Hittin’ the Trail: Day Hiking Grand Canyon National Park guidebook.

Day hike into Grand Canyon's North Rim

North Kaibab Trail. Photo courtesy of Grand Canyon NPS.

Topo map of North Kaibab Trail.

Segment of North Kaibab Trail perfect for walk

To avoid crowds at Grand Canyon National Park, visitors increasingly are heading to the North Rim. If doing the same, consider fitting in a day hike on the North Kaibab Trail.

The North Kaibab is the only maintained trail into the canyon from the North Rim. Rather than hike all the way to the bottom – which would require an overnight stay – hike about 500 feet down in elevation, which alone is a steep trail at a high elevation covering about a 1.5-mile round trip.

Because winter brings heavy snow to the North Rim (You’re at 8200-plus feet above sea level.), you’ll only be to hike the trail from mid-May through mid-October when the park road and facilities are open. Hitting the trail in May/early June or late September/ October will help you avoid the summer heat.

High alpine forest
To reach the trail, from Fredonia, Ariz., drive miles south on U.S. Hwy. 89A to Jacob Lake. Then take State Hwy. 67 to the Grand Canyon North Rim park entrance. An entrance fee is required.

The parking lot for the trailhead is off the main road about two miles before reaching the North Rim facilities. Two other trailheads share the parking lot, so watch the signs to ensure you're on the right trail.

While the North Kaibab is well-maintained, it’s also very steep with long drop-offs. Because of this, you won’t want to take young children on the trail. A fall can be quite serious, and even if careful, they’ll have a difficult time walking back up – as will you if you have to carry them. Mule rides also run on the trail, and you’ll want to keep little children away from the animals as they come through.

The trail descends from a high alpine forest consisting of aspen, Douglas fir and ponderosa pine into Roaring Springs Canyon. Meltwater flowing down this side canyon feeds the Colorado River.

Coconino Overlook
As the trail winds downward, you’ll have gone about 500 feet below the rim in 0.75 miles of walking. At that point is the Coconino Overlook, where an excellent view of Roaring Springs Canyon awaits.

A number of rock layers also are visible at the overlook, including the red brick of the Supai formation. The red rock is at least 270 million years old. At the time, this part of the Grand Canyon was a broad coastal plain with sediment settling from the Rocky Mountains as they began to rise in Colorado and New Mexico.

Turning back at the overlook is a good idea for day hikers. If early in the day, you’re physically fit, and any children along are in their late teens and also in good shape, you may want to consider going a little farther down to the Supai Tunnel.

A man-made passageway through the rock, the tunnel is about 1,440 feet and a 1.8-mile walk below the rim. Go ahead and walk through the small tunnel to see the looming cliffs with pinyon and juniper ahead.

Do not go any further unless planning to camp overnight, however.

Read more about day hiking the Grand Canyon in my Day Hiking Grand Canyon National Park guidebook.