How to reach Rocky Mountain National Park

Cub Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Sitting in Colorado’s famous Front Range about 90 minutes north of Denver, Rocky Mountain National Park is easy to reach.

From the south and east, Interstates 76, 70 and 25 converge upon Denver. From there, take I-25 north then exit onto U.S. Hwy. 36, which heads through Boulder on its way to Estes Park. You then can choose to enter the park via U.S. Hwys. 34 or 36 or Colorado Hwy. 7. A great hike to take near these entrances is the Alberta Falls Trail, which heads to a popular waterfall amid the mountain scenery.

If coming into Colorado on I-25 from Wyoming to the north, exit onto Hwy 34 and head east through Loveland into Estes Park. The Lawn Lake Trail, which offers an opportunity to see a lot of park wildlife, is easy to reach from this approach.

Those arriving from the west via I-70 can exit on U.S. Hwy 40 and head north through the mountains to Grandby. From there, take Hwy. 34 north to Grand Lake and into the park. The Colorado River Trail marks a good option for exploring this side of the park.

Anyone visiting who doesn't live at a high altitude should take a day to acclimate upon arriving in the park. There really is less oxygen that high up, and altitude sickness can be a problem if you jump right into hiking the sights.

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks series.

Trail offers perfect mountain over lake views

Mountains reflect of the clam surface of Bear Lake. Courtesy of Ben Gray.

Topo map, Bear Lake Loop.

Short loop circles subalpine lake at Rocky Mtn. NP

Day hikers can circle a beautiful subalpine lake in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park on the Bear Lake Loop.

The 0.6-miles round trip trail is particularly gorgeous in autumn when aspens around the lake turn gold. An extremely popular trail, it will be crowded during peak tourism season; you can avoid crowds by starting early in morning, usually before 9 a.m.

To reach the trailhead, from Estes Park, Colo., take U.S. Hwy. 36 west. Turn left/south onto Bear Lake Road. Drive 9 miles to the parking lot for the Bear Head Trailhead.

From the lot, a short access trail leads to the loop. You’re at about 9475 feet elevation, so take the walk slow as there truly is a little less oxygen at this altitude.

Hallett Peak
Hike the hard-packed surface trail counterclockwise. That follows the 30 marked spots on the trail; an interpretive guide offered by the Rocky Mountain Conservancy explains the history, geology, flora and fauna that can be seen at each numbered posts.

Near the loop’s start, along the lake’s eastern shore, is a picture-perfect view of Hallett Peak. Its summit sits at 12,713 feet, a full half-mile above the lake. In the morning on clam, clear days, the mountain’s reflection can be seen on the lake.

The trail passes through a forest of spruce, fir, lodgepole pine and aspen. The latter only is here because it took root in the aftermath of a great wildfire that take place more than 110 years ago. The “Big Fire” – also sometimes known as the “Bear Lake Fire” because of where it started – burned for eight weeks, reaching temperatures high enough to crack granite boulders. The aspen quickly moved in on the cleared, ash-covered landscape.

In contrast, most of the lodgepole pines around the lake are dead. This has nothing to do with forest fires but a mountain pine beetle infestation that began in the late 1990s following a drought. By 2012, the beetle had killed almost all of the mature lodgepole pines in northern Colorado and southern Wyoming.

Mountain chickadee
Still, the views and trail are stunning. As proof, you only need to reach the lake’s north side for the view of Half Mountain, just in front of Longs Peak. The latter rises to 14,259 feet, almost a mile above the lake. Its reflection also can be seen in the lake during clear, calm mornings.

If the majestic views weren’t fantastic enough, the simple also will delight hikers on the trail. Watch for the mountain chickadee, which sometimes hangs upside down from branches to pull seeds from pine cones as whistling its sweet song of fee-bee, fee-bee.

Upon completing the loop around the lake, take the access trail back to the parking lot.

Learn more about the park's day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Rocky Mountain National Park guidebook.

Trail offers chance to see mountain wildlife

A view from the Lawn Lake Trail, courtesy Rocky Mountain NPS.

Map of Lawn Lake Trail, courtesy Rocky Mountain NPS.

Rocky Mountain NP trail heads to subalpine lake

Day hikers stand a good chance of spotting a variety of montane wildlife on the Lawn Lake Trail in Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park.

The 12.5-miles round trip from Fall River to Lawn Lake is just a segment of the overall trail. Be forewarned, though: Because of its high altitude, the elevation gain (2447 feet), a rocky trail surface, and the length, this is not a hike for the unfit.

In addition, the trail usually is only open May through October, as heavy snowfall at the high elevation closes the road in winter.

To reach the trailhead, from Estes Park, take U.S. Hwy. 34 (aka Fall River Road) east into the park. Once past the Sheep Lakes Information Station but before Fall River, turn right/northwest onto Old Fall River Road. A parking lot is on the right/northwest.

Follow the access trail northeast and in a couple of hundred feet, pick up the Lawn Lake Trail. Go left/northwest on the trail. The elevation is about 8540 feet above sea level.

The trail heads through lodgepole, fir and aspen forest covering a wide, flat basin in the Mummy Range. As the trail heads toward the treeline, it offers habitat for a variety of animals.

Mule deer are quite common at this elevation. Up to three feet tall at the shoulder, they can weigh anywhere from a hundred to 300 pounds. Usually by midsummer, mothers bring out their fawns.

Elk, bighorn sheep
At 0.55 miles, the trail begins its steady climb up over Horseshoe Park. North American elk are common here in autumn. The large males can stand up to 5 feet at the shoulder and weigh several hundred pounds. Their new young usually can be spotted in early to midsummer.

During winter, bighorn sheep sometimes come down to this elevation for salt licks. The muscular males are no taller than mule deer at the shoulder and usually top out at 300 pounds. The females are about half that size.

At a mile from the trailhead, the route comes to the east bank of Roaring River, which is full of riffles. Much of the river valley was formed during the summer 1982 flashflood. Though scars remain, vegetation during the intervening decades has reclaimed most of the lost ground. Among those trees is aspen, which turn a beautiful gold each autumn along the river banks.

The junction for Ypsilon Lake Trail is at 1.4 miles. Continue right/north alongside the river.

Bears, coyotes
In late summer, berries and mushrooms growing along the river attract black bears. With adults about 5-6 feet long, they can weigh up to 600 pounds. Though appearing fat, they’re quite muscular and can outrun a human being.

At 2 miles, the trail runs on a level bank of the river, allowing for quick travel. Bighorn Mountain (summit at 11,463 feet elevation) is to the right/east while Ypsilon Mountain (13,520 feet) rises to the northwest along the river's west bank.

While some hikers have reported wolves and foxes in this area, they more than likely saw coyotes, which at a distance easily can be confused for their close relatives. About three to five feet long, they weigh up to 50 pounds and usually have gray-yellow-brown fur with white underbelly.

At 2.75 miles, the trail junctions a spur to a backcountry campsite. Upon reaching 3.5 miles, the trail begins a gradual rise in an increasingly diverse forest.

Cougars, small mammals
Another predator common in the national forest are cougars, though because of their solitary nature sightings are rare. If you see bark on a tree that is scratched off, a mountain lion probably was the culprit.

At 4 miles from the trailhead, you’ve reach 10,000 feet. Mount Tileston’s peak is to the right/east.

A number of small mammals also can be seen. Among the more unique ones is the yellow-bellied marmot. A member of the squirrel family, they grow up to two feet in length but weigh a mere 11 pounds. Usually they live in colonies of 10-20 individuals.

About 4.5 miles from the trailhead, the , surrounding peaks begin to emerge. Fairchild Mountain (13,502 feet), Hagues Peak (13,560 feet) and Mummy Mountain (13,425 feet) ring this basin.

Other small animals living in the park and likely to be seen on the trail are chipmunks and snowshoe hares. One creature you won’t see is the pika, which lives only above 11,000 feet.

Lawn Lake
At 5 miles, the transition to a spruce-fir forest begins. Then, about 5.65 miles from the trailhead is the intersection with Cow Creek Trail. Continue straight/left/north, briefly leaving Roaring River and paralleling a creek that flows into it. In short order, the trail rejoins Roaring River's east bank.

At 6 miles, the trail runs through a patchy forest of old growth spruce. This is the high point over Lawn Lake, which Roaring River flows out of.

You finally reach your destination – Lawn Lake – at 6.25 miles. Sitting at 10,987 feet elevation, it is the national park's largest subalpine lake. The lake was a reservoir until 1982 when the 26-foot earthen dam collapsed. An incredible 134,640 gallons of water roared down the river valley per second. The lake is now at its original level and popular with fishermen.

You can extend the hike by continuing around lake and into more rugged terrain. For a day hike, though, the trek to the lake is sufficient.

Notes: Watch weather reports; at high altitudes, thunderstorms can sneak up on you in summer. Horses, but not dogs, are allowed on the trail.

Learn more about the park's day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Rocky Mountain National Park.

Hike crosses classic Colo. montane forest

Mills Lake at Rocky Mountain National Park.

Mill Lake Trail map, courtesy of Rocky Mountain NPS.

Trail passes waterfall on way to mountain lake

Day hikers can explore a montane forest on the Mills Lake Trail at Colorado’s Rocky Mountain National Park.

Such forests cover much of this national park, which sits at high elevations. The trail runs 2.65 miles one-way (5.3 miles round trip) through a woods to a mountain lake at the base of Glacier Gorge.

To reach the trail, from Estes Park, head west on U.S. Hwy. 36. Turn onto Bear Lake Road, and drive eight miles to the Glacier Gorge Trailhead. A free park shuttle also runs there to the trailhead, and if starting later in the day, it’s a good option to take as during peak tourist season the parking lot fills quick.

The trailhead elevation is 9240 feet. Be aware that there’s less oxygen that high up, and it thins even more as the trail gains 727 feet. Watch for signs of altitude sickness among yourself and your party.

Your hike begins by crossing Chaos Creek. At 0.25 miles from trailhead, the route joins Glacier Creek Trail. When the trails splits, go left to Mills Lake.

A montane forest consists of meandering rivers and creaks that run through open meadows surrounded by steep slopes. This makes for picturesque scenery, especially in summer when wildflowers blanket the meadows.

At 0.8 miles, the trail reaches its first highlight, Alberta Falls. The 30-foot waterfall on Glacier Creek sits at 9423 feet. From there, the trail climbs a hillside above Glacier Creek.

Ponderosa pines
As walking through the meadows, you’ll notice that different slopes tend to be dominated by specific kinds of trees. In fact, you can use these trees as a sort of compass.

South-facing slopes tend to be dry and so boast open stands of large ponderosa pines. Hiking through ponderosa pines always is a delight in summer, as bark, when warmed by the sun, is quite fragrant. In addition, you can tell the age of a ponderosa pine not just by its thickness but also by its bark color; younger pines tend to be gray-brown while older ones are a cinnamon-red.

North-facing slopes tend to be wet, as they receive less direct exposure from the sun. A mix of Douglas fir, lodgepole pine, ponderosa pine and Engelmann spruce rather than a lone tree species will dominate.

At 1.6 miles, the route arrives at the North Longs Peak Trail junction, about 9768 feet elevation. Go right. The trail then heads through a narrow gorge between East Glacier Knob and 12,668-foot Thatchtop Mountain.

The trail reaches Mills Junction at 2.1 miles. Go left, cross Icy Brook, and officially enter Glacier Gorge.

The streams the trail follows also offer their own unique set of trees. The wet soil allows for groves of quaking aspen, willows, mountain alder, and water birch to flourish. The aspen is particularly beautiful in autumn when its leaves turn golden-yellow.

Mills Lake
At 2.4 miles, the trail reaches the footbridge for Glacier Creek. Look for a footpath on the right; you can follow it for about 40 yards to the base of tiny Glacier Falls.

The montane forest sports an impressive number of mammals and birds. Of the former, various squirrels, chipmunks, cottontails, deer and bobcats call this area home. Among the many songbirds here are the mountain chickadee, western and mountain bluebirds, western tanager, Stellar's jay, downy and hairy woodpeckers, and the yellow-rump warbler.

The trail comes upon Mills Lake at 2.65 miles from the trailhead. The subalpine lake, with Half Mountain rising over it, sits at 9955 feet about sea level. It is named for Enos Mills, the father of Rocky Mountain National Park, as he spent several years working to preserve region.

Be sure to bring a picnic basket to enjoy on a rocky area at lake's edge, for the view is fantastic here. To the lake’s west is The Arrowhead, which tops out at 12,387 feet, Powell Peak (13,208 feet) and McHenrys Peak (13,327 feet). On the east is while Pagoda Mountain (13,497 feet), the line of pinnacles known as the Keyboard of the Winds. Chiefs Head Peak (13,579 feet) and The Spearhead (12,575 feet) rise in the upper valley.

After taking in the sights, retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Learn more about the park's day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Rocky Mountain National Park.

Trail crosses Continental Divide in Rockies

The Milner Pass Trail crosses the Continental Divide.
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Topo Map, Milner Pass Trail.

Route connects
Milner Pass
to Fall River Pass

Day hikers can place their feet on both sides of the Continental Divide when hiking the Milner Pass Trail at Rocky Mountain National Park.

The 4.1-mile one-way trail makes for a long round-trip hike, but the route can be shortened or treated as a point-to-point trail. Because of the high elevation, the road to the trailhead often is closed in winter, so July through September is the narrow window hikers have to hit this route.

To reach the trailhead, from Estes Park drive west on U.S. Hwy. 34/Trail Ridge Road. Park at the Poudre Lake Trailhead at Milner Pass, which sits 10,759 feet above sea level.

The Great Divide
Before beginning the hike, walk the fenced path northeast to Poudre Lake. The lake is the headwaters of the Cache La Poudre River that flows east into the Platte River.

The Continental Divide runs across two continents from the Bering Strait to the Strait of Magellan. All water west of the divide ultimately drains into the Pacific Ocean while water east of it heads into the Atlantic Ocean, Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea. At Milner Pass, the divide is southwest of the Poudre Lake shore and marked by a large sign. The Milner Pass Trail crosses the Divide three times.

From the parking lot, head south on the narrow but obvious trail that cuts through the grass and evergreens. The route is initially steep as it passes Sheep Rock, which is on the Divide’s Pacific side. After a hairpin turn, the trail gradually veers northeast, recrossing the Divide to its Atlantic side.

At 0.6 miles, the trail reaches a junction with an unmaintained path to Mt. Ida. Continue heading straight/northwest. The terrain quickly levels out as the trail heads through thinning patches of subalpine forest the rest of the way.

Wildlife
In the meadows, Specimen Mountain, at more than 12,400 feet, towers over the north and west side of the Cache La Poudre River. To the south and east are twin 11,880-foot peaks, which Poudre Lake sits at the base of.

Bring a binoculars. Elk and deer often can be spotted in the middle portion of the hike. Bighorn sheep also sometimes can be seen on the mountain slopes while moose sometimes feed in the alpine ponds and meadows.

At two miles from the trailhead, the route reaches Forest Canyon Pass. Widening to the southeast, the canyon is where the headwaters of the Big Thompson River forms.

Several scenic ponds dot the flats. But at Forest Canyon Pass, perhaps the most impressive view requires you to pause and turn around. Never Summer Ridge is now visible in the west. Ten distinct peaks top out at above 12,000 feet in the range.

Open tundra
About three miles from the trailhead, breaks in the treeline allow views of Cache La Poudre River to the north. The trail soon splits; the route on the right heads to Gore Range Overlook, while going left/northeast is the Milner Pass Trail.

For the last 0.6 miles, the trail largely crosses open tundra on a west-facing slope. The grade increases here but is fairly moderate.

About 4.1 miles from Milner Pass, the trail arrives at Alpine Visitor Center. The elevation at the center, which sits along Trail Ridge Road at Fall River Pass, is 11,796 feet.

With these high elevations throughout the trail, always pace yourself and drink plenty of water. Be on constant alert for altitude sickness.

Sometimes this route is referred to as Ute Trail on maps. It technically is part of that trail, of which two disconnected sections exist in the national park.

Learn more about the park's day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Rocky Mountain National Park guidebook.

Best sites to see at Rocky Mountain NP

Longs Peak. Photo courtesy of Rocky Mountain NPS.

Among the best ways to see Rocky Mountain National Park’s best sights is via a day hike. Just five short trails will allow you to enjoy each of the park’s highlights – the Continental Divide, montane forests, waterfalls, mountain wildlife, and peaks over 14,000 feet high.

Continental Divide
Water falling west of the divide flows into the Pacific Ocean; everything falling to the east flows into the Atlantic. Hikers can cross the divide via the Milner Pass Trail, which runs 4.1 miles one-way from Poudre Lake to the Alpine Visitor Center. The trail is at a very high elevation, so beware of altitude sickness.

Montane forests
Mountain forests cover much of the national park. The Mills Lake Trail travels 2.8 miles one-way through a woods to a mountain pond, gaining 700 feet elevation in Glacier Gorge.

Waterfalls
With so many mountain peaks and glacier valleys, a number of waterfalls can be found in the national park. The Alberta Falls Trail runs 1.4-mile out-and-back trail to a 30-foot drop on Glacier Creek.

Mountain wildlife
Bighorn sheep, black bears, cougars, and mule deer all call the national park home. The Lawn Lake Trail in West Horseshoe Park, off of Fall River Road, is an excellent meadow to spot grazing mammals, especially elk, with their young in early to mid-summer.

Longs Peak
At 14,259 feet, Longs Peak is one of Colorado's most visibly prominent fourteeners – a mountain more than 14,000 feet high – on the Front Range. Among the best views of it can be had on the Bluebird Lake Trail in Wild Basin. The 12-mile round trip includes an elevation gain of 2,478 feet.

Learn more about the park’s day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Rocky Mountain National Park guidebook.

Get yer Rocky Mountain high on day hike

Alberta Falls. Photo courtesy Rocky Mountain NPS.

Map of Alberta Falls Trail, courtesy Rocky Mountain NPS.

Alberta Falls
Trail runs
1.4-miles
in Colorado

Lush green woodland, a waterfall, and a Rocky Mountain high await day hikers on the Alberta Falls Trail near Estes Park, Colo.

The 1.4-mile out-and-back trail sits in the heart of Rocky Mountain National Park. Seventy-two of the mountain peaks in the national park rise 12,000 feet above sea level.

Because of the high altitude, summer marks the best time to hike the trail. However, given the trail’s ease and its big payoff – the waterfall – expect it be somewhat crowded.

To reach the trailhead, from Estes Park travel east on U.S. Hwy. 36, turning left/south onto Bear Lake Road. You’ll drive through some fantastic scenery for about eight miles to the Glacier Gorge Trailhead parking lot, which is near the road’s terminus. The trailhead sits at the lot’s southwest corner.

With a trailhead elevation of 9240 feet, be aware that there’s less oxygen, so pace yourself. In addition, you’ll go 200 feet uphill on the way to the waterfalls.

'The forest and the streams'
The dirt path through evergreens connects with the Glacier Gorge Trail in about 650 feet. Go left/south and in less than 50 feet turn onto the trail to your right/southeast.

To the northwest is Hallett Peak and the Continental Divide. The peak rises to 12,270 feet with pretty Bear Lake sitting below it.

The trail crosses Tyndall Creek then splits. Go left/southeast. You’ll know you’ve gone the wrong way if you cross Tyndall Creek again.

The forest here is mixed pines with aspen groves. You can almost hear John Denver singing in the distance. At the very least, if you’ve never visited the Rockies before, you’ll get a good understanding on the trail of what he meant by “Now he walks in quiet solitude, the forest and the streams/Seeking grace in every step he takes.”

About 800 feet from the last trail junction, you’ll cross Chaos Creek. The trail meanders a bit then veers south as paralleling Glacier Creek to your left. If hiking during early autumn, the change in aspen leaf colors makes for great scenery.

Picnic below the falls
Alberta Falls appears within 1200 feet. It thunders over a small gorge with a 30-foot drop. It is named for Alberta Sprague, the wife of one of Estes Park’s first white settlers. Her husband, Abner Sprague, became the first person to pay an entrance fee into Rocky Mountain National Park in 1939.

Alberta Falls is a great place for a picnic if you’d like to carry lunch in your backpack. There’s a good chance that you’ll share the area with painters capturing the falls on canvas.

While the trail does continue onward, the falls marks a good spot to turn around.

Learn more about the park’s day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Rocky Mountain National Park guidebook.