Autumn hikes on Minn.-Wis. border, Part II

Brilliant fall colors can be seen along the Minnesota-Wisconsin
border from September and mid-October.

If living in a border

county or traveling near the Wisconsin-Minnesota state line, plenty of great autumn trails await.

Central and northern Minnesota border with Wisconsin mostly follows the St. Croix River from Prescott, Wis., to Lake Superior. Maple, basswood, oak, aspen and birch dominate.

Minnesota

Carlton County
Day hikers can cross a swinging bridge above a raging river running over nearly 2 billion-year old rock then enjoy incredible autumn colors at Jay Cooke State Park. The 1.5-mile round trip East Ridge Trail crosses and then partially follows the St. Louis river southeast of Duluth. A new $1.1 million swinging bridge opened in 2013. To the delight of most kids (and adults), the 219-foot pedestrian bridge bounces and sways. The rest of the trail heads through a hardwood forest whose green in summer rivals that of Oz’s Emerald City. The leaves turn an impressive array of yellows, reds and oranges as autumn sets in. From Interstate 35 take the exit for Minn. Hwy. 210, driving east through Carlton. The park is about five miles from the freeway. Turn right/south at the River Inn Visitor Center and park in the lot nearest the river. For more Carlton County trails, see Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota.

Chisago County
Hikers can follow some of the same footpaths and rail lines that the region’s first Swedish immigrants used to settle Minnesota on the Swedish Immigrant Trail. During the late 1800s, many Swedish immigrants took the ferry across the St. Croix River and then footpaths to their destinations. A spur off the St. Paul-Duluth rail route to Wyoming opened during 1880, helping speed the immigration inland. Perhaps the best of the trail’s completed portions is the Shafer Segment. Birch trees dominate in some sections, but the trail is mainly lined by mixed hardwoods that leave the path and its grass shoulders covered in an array of colorful leaves during autumn. Park on the street in downtown Shafer, off of Redwing Avenue near 303rd Street. The trailhead is near 303rd and heads for about two miles east of Redwing. Look for the white signs with the trail logo in the blue and yellow colors of Sweden’s flag. For more Chisago County trails, see Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota.

Pine County
Hikers can walk alongside pretty Tamarack River, where a variety of trees light up the trail in autumn. The 3.75-mile out and back Tamarack River Trail runs along the river’s west side before it flows into the St. Croix River. Rolling terrain features maple, basswood, ash, aspen, oak, tamarack along with the evergreens Norway, red and white pine. From Sandstone, take County Road 123 east then go straight-left/east on County Road 30. Turn right/south onto County Road 24 and then left/east onto County Road 25. After passing Markville Cemetery, take the next right/south. Park at the Tamarack horse camp and head south on the trail in the St. Croix State Forest. Note that the full trail actually is a loop but requires a river crossing, so that and the route on the river’s east side are not included here. For more Pine County trails, see Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota.

St. Louis County
A pair of picturesque waterfalls, footbridges, and a walk alongside Chester Creek await hikers on the Chester Park Loop in Duluth. Located near the University of Minnesota-Duluth campus, the 2.4-mile trail is particularly beautiful in autumn when the golden bronze of maple and basswood leaves form a canopy over the path and float upon the creek. In Duluth from West College Street take North 19th Avenue E southeast. Turn right/west onto W. Kent Road, then right/west onto East Skyline Parkway after the curve right/northwest onto Chester Park Drive. Park along the road then walk back alongside the road to E. Skyline Parkway and cross the bridge to the trailhead. For more St. Louis County trails, see Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota.

Washington County
The fresh scent of pine needles upon the pathway and the gentle rush of water along the river’s rock walls instantly lulls you into a feeling of serenity on the Riverside Trail at William O’Brien State Park. The 1.5-mile trail loops through a floodplain and typically is open during summer and autumn when water levels have gone down. Roughly half of the trail follows the river, mainly through a good mix of hardwoods common to a floodplain forest in this region. During autumn, their leaves turn gold, red, orange and brown. Across the water is Wisconsin, and with the two undeveloped shorelines, tranquility reigns. From Marine on St. Croix, Minn., take Minn. Hwy. 95 north into the park. Turn right/east onto O’Brien Trail North/County Road 33. The road curves south, dead ending in a parking area alongside Lake Alice. The trail begins at the picnic grounds immediately east of the parking lot.

Wisconsin

Burnett County
Day hikers can walk across an old railroad bridge over the St. Croix River at the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway and St. Croix State Forest on the Wisconsin-Minnesota border. The Gandy Dancer Trail, which starts dozens of miles south of the state forest in Polk County, at Danbury crosses the border into Minnesota. The trestle bridge segment is about two miles round trip. You’ll head through a forested area. The mix of trees near the riverfront yields a fantastic multi-colored leaf display in autumn. An added bonus for autumn hikers: You’ll probably spot a number of migrating waterfowl, including sandhill cranes. Also watch for bald eagles, osprey, northern harriers and hawks, all of which reside year-round in the area. In Danbury, parking for trail access is next to the walking route north of Hwy. 77 between and Hwy. 35 and North Glass Street. From the lot, take the trail north.

Douglas County
A walk along a pristine sand beach awaits day hikers of the Lake Superior shoreline in the Bear Beach State Natural Area. The unmarked trail runs for up to 3.4-miles round trip along narrow Bear Beach. Hiking the beach, you’ll get a good sense of what this area of the world looked like before Euro-Americans settled it. A thick woods hugs the sand’s southern side while the lake stretches wide beyond to the north. Though the forest this far north is heavy on the evergreens – especially balsam fir, white pine and white spruce – in autumn the yellowed-colored leaves of paper birch and trembling aspen and the spring green of speckled alder are well-represented. From Brule take U.S. Hwy. 2 west. In Maple, turn north onto County Road F. Next, go left/west onto Wis. Hwy. 13 then right/north onto Beck’s Road. Park in the dirt lot at the end of Beck’s Road near the Lake Superior shore.

Polk County
Day hikers can experience an autumn forest that looks almost like the one Native Americans and pioneers saw during the 1800s. The 2.9-mile Ridge View Trails near Osceola heads beneath a lush forest canopy in the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway and the Osceola State Fish Hatchery on a bluff overlooking a St. Croix River back channel. Sugar maple is the dominant tree. Each autumn, its leaves vary from yellow to orange or red. Basswood, whose leaves turn olive in fall, and white ash, which changes to a deep maroon, usually are mixed in the canopy. From Osceola, take Wis. Hwy. 35 north and turn north onto County Road S. The two trailheads are on the road’s left/west. Both trailheads have their own parking areas off of the road. Just beyond 93rd Avenue is the southernmost parking area, which is an excellent trailhead for either loop.

***

The splendor of fall colors combines with a vista of the St. Croix River and fasinating rock formations on the Summit Rock Trail at Interstate State Park. The 1-mile round trip trail heads to a bluff’s highest point. Moss and autumn leaves cover the surrounding rock and ground while maples, basswood and eastern white pines line the trail. At the top, prickly pear cactus can be spotted amid the outcroppings. The highlight of the hike without question is the incredible view of the riverway from the summit. Looking north, the Old Man of the Dalles rock formation is visible. From St. Croix Falls, take Wis. Hwy. 35 south. Turn right/west into the park and follow the entry road to the parking lot across from the Lake O’ the Dalles.

St. Croix County
Tucked within Wisconsin’s dairy country is a hilly, wooded region that gives day hikers the chance to get back to nature. Glen Hills County Park offers a plethora of trails amid 700 acres of maple and oak trees. The 2-mile round trip Glen Lake East Trail goes downhill to a campground. Before hitting the trail, though, head to a scenic overlook of Glen Lake, ringed by red pines and hardwoods. From U.S. Hwy. 12 in Wilson, take County Road W north. Turn left/north onto Rustic Road 4 then go left/northwest onto Thompson Lane, which dead ends at the parking lot.

Pierce County
Hikers can walk through a rare old growth oak forest on the Purple Trail at Kinnickinnic State Park. The 1.2-mile loop sits near the confluence of the St. Croix and Kinnicknnic rivers. Pioneers and 19th century logging companies cut most of the trees in this part of Wisconsin, but the trail passes through one of the few woodlands to escape the ax. The oaks are majestic, especially when their leaves turn tan, orange and brown in autumn. The trail includes a deck overlooking the confleunce where eagles can be spotted. From Prescott, take Wis. Hwy. 29 east then turn left/north County Road F north. Turn left/west onto 820th Avenue then left/south into the park; follow the entry road west all of the way to its end and park in the St. Croix Picnic Area Lot.

Vista offers 30-mile views of autumn colors

Autumn colors spread across the forest around Skibo Vista Overlook.

Skibo Vista Overlook map.

Day trippers can enjoy sweeping 30-mile views of autumn colors at Minnesota’s Skibo Vista Overlook.

Located on Iron Range, the overlook is an easy stroll, consisting of a mere 250 feet of sidewalk. It is located along the 78-mile Superior National Forest Scenic Byway, which connects the Iron Range to the North Shore.

To reach the overlook, from Hoyt Lakes take Lake County 15 (aka Skibo Outlook Road, Forest Route 110 and Forest Route 128) south. After passing Lake County 129, the lookout is on the left/east.

Located 20 stories above the terrain below, the overlook sits on the Laurentian Divide. One of the continent’s great watershed divides, water on the north side of the Laurentian makes its way toward Hudson Bay while that to the south heads either to the Gulf of Mexico or the Atlantic Ocean. The divide stretches from Triple Divide Peak in northwestern Montana, cuts through Minnesota’s Iron Range, and ends on the Labrador Peninsula at the 60th parallel.

Glacier-shaped terrain
Surrounding the overlook are the Toimi Drumlins. Formed during the last Ice Age, viewed from above the drumlin field looks somewhat like a basket of eggs. Drumlins are a series of elongated, teardropped-shaped hills. Around Skibo Vista, each drumlin ridge is about a mile long, a quarter-mile wide, and 30-50 feet high.

Exactly how the drumlins formed is debated among geologists, but all agree that they were shaped by the glacier’s direction – the ridge’s tapered end points the way the glacier was flowing. Here the drumlins run in a southwest-northeast direction.

Quaking aspen dominates the drumlins’ tops. Their flat leaves easily flutter in the wind, in autumn giving the appearance of moving yellow seas below the overlook. Surrounding them is evergreen balsam fir.

In the distance to the west and southwest are tamarack lowlands. Tamarack is among 20 species of trees in the world that are “deciduous conifers,” meaning they grow cones and sprout needles like conifers but each autumn their needles change colors and fall, just as deciduous trees lose their leaves. Each September, the tall tamaracks – they usually grow between 33-66 high with a trunk two feet in diameter – turn a brilliant gold.

Changes
Mixed amid the aspens and tamaracks are pockets of hardwood forests. Sugar maple, basswood, American elm, and oak populate these enclaves, offering hues of orange, red, yellow and brown.

On a clear fall day, it’s quite a view, with multiple Iron Range towns nestled amid the harvest colors. Soaring eagles and migrating hawks often can be spotted overhead.

Not surprisingly, an observation tower for the Superior National Forest used to stand at the overlook, as it’s a perfect spot to watch for forest fires. A concrete foundation is all that remains of the tower.

Collectively called the Laurentian Mixed Forest, the view didn’t look like this during Minnesota’s early days as a state. When this was Native American land Euro-American settlers arrived, this area was much more like the boreal forests to the north. Red and white pine dominated, with aspen, paper birch, spruce, and balsam fir finding niches. After the pine was cut, aspen and paper birch took over. More change likely is to come in the decades ahead, as global warming allows the the hardwood forest pockets to gain a foothold.

Walk heads to historic Duluth lighthouse

Duluth's North Pier Light sits some 1150 feet in Lake Superior.

North Pier Trail map. Click for larger version.

Lighthouse lovers can explore a century-old tower at the end of pier jutting several hundred feet into Lake Superior on the North Pier Trail in Duluth, Minn.

The 0.45-miles round trip hike runs along the north breakwater of the Duluth Ship Canal. It heads to the Duluth North Pier Light, one of three towers on the canal.

To reach the lighthouse, from Interstate 35 in downtown Duluth, exit south/east onto South Lake Avenue. Continue south onto Canal Park Drive. After the road loops back on itself, park in the Lighthouse Lot. From the lot's east side (the one nearest Lake Superior), go right/southeast onto the Lakewalk.

When the walking path runs out, turn left/northeast onto the North Pier path. This heads onto the concrete pier that ends at the lighthouse.

Improvements over time
In 1874, the canal's southern breakwater was equipped with a light to mark the passageway. Some twenty years later, in 1896, the canal sides were reconstructed and defined by the two concrete piers that still exist today.

The piers each run about 1,700 feet, and of that 1,150 feet extend beyond the shoreline into Lake Superior. Their foundation sits up to twenty-two feet below low water and up to 18 feet above low-water. The canal between the piers is 300 feet wide with the Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge spanning it.

During the turn-of-the-century reconstruction, a rear range light (now known as the Duluth Rear Range Light) was added on the southern pier. In 1901, the existing lighthouse (now known as the Duluth South Breakwater Outer Light) on the southern pier was added, but the northern pier remained towerless.

Following the wreck of the SS Mataafa in 1905, though, calls were made to equip the northern pier with a light. The existing lighthouse was constructed and lit in spring 1910.

The northern tower's design was based on that of the Peche Island Rear Range Light at the entrance to the Detroit River from Lake St. Clair. The Michigan light still exists but upon its deactivation was moved to Marine City in that state.

North Pier Light
The North Pier Light is a white steel/cast iron cylindrical tower with a black lantern. It rises 36 feet from the concrete breakwater foundation. The tower is 10-feet 6-inches in diameter at the base and tapers to 8-feet at the top.

No keeper's quarters sits at the North Pier Light. A head keeper and assistants maintained it and the two southern pier lights and lived at another location.

The U.S. Coast Guard automated the North Pier Light in 1966. It can be seen up to 13 miles away.

You can't enter the tower but can walk up to it and stand on the pier watching ships enter the canal.

After taking in the lighthouse, retrace your steps on the North Pier walking path. This heads to the Lake Superior Marine Museum. If not interested in going inside, there are some exhibits outside that can be walked around before taking the sidewalk back to the Lakewalk and your parking lot.

South Pier lighthouses
Alternately, you can walk past the museum and at South Lake Avenue go left/southeast for a close-up view of Duluth's iconic Aerial Lift Bridge. You also can cross the canal via the bridge and take a paved path heading down the South Pier past the Duluth Rear Range Light to the Duluth South Breakwater Outer Light.

A skeletal tower constructed of steel/cast iron, the Rear Range Light rises 70 feet and is visible from 15 miles away. It sometimes is referred to on maps and in guidebooks as the Duluth South Breakwater Inner Light.

The 34.5-foot South Breakwater Outer Light is a house with square tower. The white tower is made of brick. Automated in 1976, it can be seen up to 15 miles away.

If adding the south pier lights to the hike, the entire trip runs about 0.96-miles total.

How to get to Voyageurs National Park

Beaver Pond Overlook Trail

The remote national park in northern Minnesota can be reached via U.S. Hwy. 53, which runs north from Duluth and east from International Falls.

From the Twin Cities, take Interstate 35 north and then, once in the Duluth area, Hwy. 53 northwest.

From Thunder Bay, Canada, take Canada Hwy. 11 west to Fort Frances and cross into the United States. In International Falls, the road becomes Hwy. 53 or Second Avenue.

Hwy 53 offers access points to each of the park's visitor centers:
• County Road 129 heads to the Ash River Visitor Center and resort area. An excellent trail there is the 0.4-miles round trip Beaver Pond Overlook Trail, where you can spot iconic Northwoods wildlife...or at least signs of it during the day.
• County Road 122 runs north to the Kabetogama Lake Visitor Center. In this area, you can hike atop rock almost half the age of the Earth on the 2.2-mile Echo Bay Hiking Trail.
• Minn. Hwy 11 runs east from International Falls to Rainy Lake Visitor Center. A great day hike there is the Little American Island Trail, which loops 0.25 miles around the only authentic gold mine discovered in Minnesota.

Learn more about the park’s day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Voyageurs National Park guidebook.

Rock half the Earth's age await on day hike

Trailhead for Echo Bay Hiking Trail

Echo Bay Hiking Trail map

Day hikers can walk atop rock almost half the age of the Earth on the Echo Bay Hiking Trail at Voyageurs National Park.

The 2.2-mile trail consists of three stacked loops, the third or northernmost of which really is intended to be used only as a ski trail. Part of the route runs alongside Lake Kabetogama.

To reach the trailhead, from U.S. Hwy. 53, go north on County Road 122. Turn right/east onto Northern Lights Road/County Road 332. A parking lot is on the road’s north side.

The excitement begins even before you reach the trailhead, however. On Hwy. 122 about 2.3 miles north of Hwy. 53, pull over where there's an exposure of black rock cutting across light gray granite. The gray granite is 2.7 billion years old, part of the Canadian Shield that was the forebear of the North American continent and among some of the oldest exposed rock on Earth.

The black rock is about 2.1 billion years old. As the continent began to split apart, magma was able to rise through the cracks and fill as well overlay some of the adjoining area. The magma, which cooled and hardened into the black mafic rock at the exposure, filled an area stretching more than 50 miles north through International Falls into Ontario.

Back at the trailhead, go right/east from the parking lot. The trail curves north through a forest and in 0.4 miles comes to a junction. Go right/north and continue alongside Kabetogama Lake. The lake formed when an ancient glacial flow sometime during the past 2 million years carved out the valley. At the end of the last ice age some 10,000 years ago, glacial meltwater settled in the valley.

The trail begins to climb as approaching the lake, and the aspen forest gives way to a rocky pine-covered ridgeline. The outcroppings here are about 2.692 to 2.695 million years old.

When these rocks were formed, they were at the southern edge of the Canadian Shield. As neighboring islands and small continents slammed into the shield, it expanded, until becoming the continent we know today.

In 0.7 miles, the trail reaches the junction with the third loop. Go left/south away from the lake. Should you accidentally turn onto the top loop, it runs for 1 mile and reconnects with the next junction.

The underlying and exposed rock here largely is schist. It began to form when a mix of rock flowed down the shield’s continental slope into a deep sea and settled in a clay mixture, forming a sandstone known as graywacke. The buried graywacke then was compressed and heated, transforming into a flaky rock known as schist.

The trail soon leaves the ridge and ascends into the lowlands. At 0.2 miles, the trail junctions with the other end of the third loop; go left/south here.

The schist bedrock joined the Canadian Shield (which much of the schist had eroded from) when an ancient island arc known as the Wawa subprovince pushed north, raised and compressed it, then merged with the proto-North American landmass.

In 0.1 miles, the trail arrives at the northern end of the first stacked loop. Go right/west. In just a few steps, a spur to the left/south leads to the top of a knoll, offering an overlook of a wetlands. Many years ago, beavers created this wetlands area by flooding a forest of ash trees via their dam building. At one time, the dead trees served as a great blue heron rookery.

From the overview, take the spur back to the main trail and turn left/west. In addition to the ancient rocks and the beaver pond turned heron rookery, the sounds and sights of warblers and woodpeckers are a highlight of the hike.

The trail eventually curls south then east around the wetlands, arriving back at your parking lot in 0.8 miles.

Learn more about the park’s day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Voyageurs National Park guidebook.

Trail heads to little known 3-story waterfalls

Ash River Falls from the air.

Satellite map of Ash River Falls Trail.

Day hikers can head to a three-story waterfall on the Ash River near Voyageurs National Park.

The Ash River Falls Waterfall Trail runs 1.7-miles round trip. Though not an official trail in the Kabetogama State Forest, the falls is so spectacular a sight that people have cut a path to it.

To reach the trail, from U.S. Hwy. 53 about midway between Ash Lake and Ray, turn east onto County Road 129/Ash River Trail. Then go right/south onto Ash River Recreational Trail. The paved highway naturally becomes Bright Star Road. As taking the last curve before the NoVA Far Detector Building (which is off limits to the public), park in the pullout on the road's left/northwest side. Two trails start at the pullout. Take the one on the right and go northeast.

The sandy jeep trail heads through a woods as it wraps around the detector building. A particle physics experiment designed to detect neutrinos, elementary particles are beamed through 503 miles of Earth from Fermilab (the near detector) to this one in northern Minnesota (the far detector).

After about 0.42 miles, on the detector building's east side, the trail narrows and heads through a pine barrens.

Where the woodline picks up abut 0.38 miles later, the trail descends through evergreens to the Ash River shoreline. Once on the rocky beach, turn right/south; the base of the waterfall is in about 300 feet.

The Ash River tumbles about 34.5 feet over four tiers of gray rock. You’ll likely spot a canoeist or two on the river below the falls; this is a popular canoeing destination from a series of resorts along County Road 129, which begin about a mile upstream. Unfortunately, no hiking trail leads from the resorts to the falls.

Below the waterfall, the river widens and flows northeast to Sullivan Bay, which empties into Kabetogama Lake near the Ash River Visitor Center in Voyageurs National Park.

Learn more about nearby day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Voyageurs National Park guidebook.

Northwoods trail heads to river gorge

Vermilion Gorge Trail in Minnesota's Superior National Forest.

Vermilion Gorge Trail topo map.

Day hikers can explore a narrow river gorge just outside of Voyageurs National Park.

The Vermilion Gorge Trail runs 3-miles round trip in Minnesota’s Superior National Forest. Sporting a 282-foot elevation gain over the Vermilion River, it’s best done in April through October and on dry days to avoid slick rocks.

To reach the trailhead, from U.S. Hwy. 53 in Orr, head north on County Road 23 for about 15 miles. In Buyck, take County Road 24 north for about 10 miles; a ranger station is located near end of Hwy. 24. The trailhead is in the parking lot across from the businesses just north of Crane Lake Ranger Station.

The gravel trail initially gains elevation then descends on timbered steps with boardwalks over wet areas. Birch and aspen tower overhead.

This area was well-known to early European explorers even as the interior of what is now Minnesota remained terra incognita. Rene Bourassa ran a fur trading post at the mouth of the river on Crane Lake during the 1730s.

What really attracted European-Americans to the location, though, were minerals. In 1865, first iron ore then gold were reported discovered on Vermilion Lake. The latter set off the famous Vermilion Lake Gold Rush, and by 1866, about 300 people were panning for gold on the lake. No gold was found, but deep iron ore deposits were confirmed. The mining and logging industries soon followed, but today tourism provides most locals with their livelihoods.

Once out of the low-lying area, the trail enters a red pine stand. Be aware that bears do inhabit the area; be noisy on the trail to warn the bears in the distance of your presence so that you don't startle one up close.

After 0.75 miles, the trail reaches the Vermilion River. You can take more steps to the shore and a bobbing dock that floats on the river to get a good view of it in this wide section.

Once you’ve taken in the river, continue to the dock’s right and head up several large rocks. Moss covers many boulders, and bunchberry bushes dominate. The trail narrows and turns to dirt, as taking a sharp turn and following the river upstream.

The path climbs steeply over rocks and roots to an overlook at the gorge’s side. The sheer granite cliff walls are steep, so be careful to not fall.

Between the cliff sides is a 500-foot long narrows through which the Vermilion River takes a perpendicular turn before flowing into Crane Lake.

At the overlook, look west to a marshy plain created by the river spreading out. Sunsets are impressive here. Though not visible from the overlook, Vermilion Falls is a few miles upstream.

Upon reaching a large rock wall, the trail ends. Retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Dogs are allowed on the trail but must be leashed.

Learn about nearby day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Voyageurs National Park guidebook.

Trail offers great view of 25,000-acre lake

View of Kabetogama Lake from the Overlook Trail.

Kabetogama Lake Overlook Trail and visitor center
walk to lake dock/rock outcropping.

Day hikers can explore the shores of a massive ice age lake in Voyageurs National Park.

The 0.4-mile round trip Kabetogama Lake Overlook Trail and a 0.1-mile walk from the visitor center to a dock on the lake.

Five massive lakes, all carved out and filled by glaciers during the last ice age, sit in the park – Kabetogama, much larger, Rainy Lake to the north and west, Namakan lake to the east, and smaller Sand Point and Crane lakes in the southwest. Rainy, Namakan and Sand Point all help form the U.S.-Canada international border.

Kabetogama Lake and a peninsula bearing the same name sit at the heart of the national park and sport the most activities for visitors. A good introduction to the park and lake after traveling across the mostly flat Minnesota landscape is the overlook trail.

A parking lot for the trail sits off Mead Wood Road north of County Road 129/Ash River Trail. This is the third pullout on your left as you drive to the Ash River Visitor Center.

This short walk through the forest is handicap accessible with a minor elevation gain of 59 feet. That’s enough of a change, though, to offer a grand view of Kabetogama Lake looking west.

At 25,000 acres, Kabetogama Lake is large, sporting 200 islands. It reaches a maximum depth of 80 feet.

The lake formed some 10,000 years ago when glaciers during the last ice age pushed out loose rock in the region, forming long, roughly west-east troughs. As the glaciers receded, meltwater settled in the troughs. About two of every five square miles of the park is water rather than land.

Today, the first thing any visitor to Kabetogama notices on a sunny day is its peaceful blueness. Untouched by industry, the lake boasts an average water clarity of nine feet.

Kabetogama is highly regarded among walleye fishermen. Though cold even in July, its water remains slightly warmer, shallower and more fertile than the neighboring lakes, making it an ideal home for walleye, as well as northern pike, crappie, perch, bass, sauger, and smallmouth bass, all of which grow faster here.

Besides attracting fisherman, this draws bald eagles, which frequently can be seen flying across the lake. At the overlook, they soar between a couple of islands and the verdant shoreline of the Kabetogama Peninsula across the way.

After the overlook, continue driving north on Mead Wood Road to the visitor center. A rustic cabin, the center includes displays about the Ash River area’s history, wildlife and fauna. Upon taking it in, walk the road on the center’s west side to the lake. This leads to a small dock and a rock outcropping on which you can sit and enjoy the lake’s beauty. Be forewarned that sometimes the wind can be heavy across the water.

Learn more about the park’s day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Voyageurs National Park guidebook.

State park trail heads to historic cemetery

Map for Thomson Trail, courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

Jay Cooke State Park's
Thomson Trail runs
2.7-miles round trip

Day hikers can head alongside a scenic river to a pioneer cemetery at Minnesota’s Jay Cooke State Park.

The 2.7-mile round trip Thomson Trail rambles part of the way alongside the St. Louis River south of Duluth.

Baby Ottos' gravestone at Thomson
Pioneer Cemetery.

To reach the trailhead, from Interstate 35 take Minn. Hwy. 210 to the River Inn Visitor Center parking lot. Try to find a space close to the park headquarters. At the HQ, follow the footpath running southeast then turn right/southwest onto the trail heading to the amphitheater. This technically is not the Thomson Trail but a river route that leads to it.

In short order, you’ll pass the amphitheater on the right/north.

Of much greater interest, though, are the views to the left/south. Through the breaks in the tress, you’ll be able to see the St. Louis River as it rushes over cascades and dark-colored greywacke, 1.9-billion year-old sand that has compacted into rock. The river grows quieter as heading upstream.

At junction 9, the trail veers north away from the river as it crosses Hwy. 210. Be sure to look both ways and hold hands of any children with you, as the road can be busy.

You’ll reach the Thomson Trail proper at junction 7. The CCC Trail heads right/east with the other two trails the ends of the loops for the Thomson Trail. Go straight/northwest, taking the loop’s top half.

At junction 8, you’ll arrive at the loop’s west end. Go right/west.

You’ll soon come to a junction with a trail that heads northwest. The equestrian trail can be hiked but stays close to the highway on its way to the Willard Munger State Trail. Continue straight/south.

The trail next arrives at the Thomson Pioneer Cemetery, an open area. Its scattered gravestones are weather-beaten and some fallen; a few of the inscriptions can be made out, though. Pioneers from the nearby village of Thomson were buried here in the 1880-1890s.

After taking in the sights, turn back. This time at junction 8, however, go right/southeast onto the bottom segment of Thomson Trail loop.

At junction 7, when you come to east end of loop; turn right/south. From there, retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Trail heads through ruffed grouse country

A male ruffed grouse performs its mating ritual.
Photo courtesy of  Minnesota DNR/

Mid-spring marks good
time to see game bird's
courtship displays

Day hikers can witness the ruffed grouse’s unique mating dance on Minnesota’s Jenkins Creek Hunter/Hiking Trail.

The 4.5-mile trail (one-way) rambles through aspen groves of various ages in the Superior National Forest. Only a segment of the trail need be walked to spot grouse, however; the segment described here is a 0.85-mile loop.

To reach the Jenkins Creek Hunter/Hiking Trail, from Hoyt Lakes take County Road 110 east for 13 miles. Turn east onto County 16/Forest Road 11. The parking lot is in a half mile. At the trailhead, choose the farthest trail on the right, which initially heads east before turning north.

The landscape surrounding the trail is ideal for ruffed grouse and other birds. Small timber harvests spread out over the years allow various ages of aspen to flourish, giving the birds good cover and sources of food. Grouse particularly like the catkins of alder, ash, aspen, birch and hazel trees.

After 0.4 miles, the trail reaches Junction 1. Go left/northeast onto a connector trail.

April mating rituals
Ruffed grouse are not particularly large, weighing only about 1.5 pounds and reaching a length of about 12 inches. During courtship, however, they’re quite easy to spot. Most noticeable are the banded fan-shaped tails. The males also sport a concealed neck ruff that they will display.

After only a few minutes of walking, the connector trail reaches Junction 2. Go left/southwest onto it.

A dry warm day in late April is a good time to hike the trail as the male ruffed grouse make a drumming sound as part of the mating ritual. This sound is created by compressing air beneath the wings. Many of the males drum atop a log, roots and even boulders, all to better attract a female’s attention.

The trail soon reaches a four-way intersection. Going right/northwest takes you on a spur trail. Going left/southeast takes you to the parking lot and cuts 0.15 miles off the hike. Continue going straight/southwest, however.

Extending the trail
Once mates pair up, hens construct ground nests, usually in a depression near a tree trunk or stump. Hatching typically occurs in mid- to late-May. Within four months, the chicks are fully grown.

After 0.4 miles, the trail reaches the parking lot. You can extend the trail by not taking the connector and instead continuing to Junction 3, where you go left/southwest. This adds 0.6 miles to the hike for a 1.45-mile loop.

Hiking boots definitely are required for much of the trail, which offers lots of rough footing.

The Ruffed Grouse Society, Northwoods Sportman’s Club, and U.S. Forest Service jointly developed the trail.

Read more about day hiking Northeast Minnesota in my Headin’ to the Cabin: Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota guidebook.

Discover Northwoods songbirds near Gheen

Mourning warbler. Photo courtesy of Ohio DNR.

Gheen Hills Trails aerial map

Short loop runs 0.6-miles near Orr

Hikers can spot wildlife and various songbirds on the easy to reach Gheen Hills Trails in Minnesota’s Kabetogama State Forest.

The 4.5-mile system of trails is popular with mountain bicyclists and cross county skiers as well as hikers. Multiple trailheads access the system.

The system is best done in late spring or early summer. Parts of the trail during early to mid-spring can be soggy, and in late summer overgrown with grass, which sometimes hides logs that can be tripped over.

Deer and bear
One good route in the Gheen Hills to day hike is a short loop that covers the trail system's northeastern woods.

To reach the trailhead, from Orr travel south about 3.5 miles on U.S. Hwy. 53. Turn right/west onto Diamond Match Forest Road. A parking area and the trail is less than 200 feet from the intersection.

The trail heads southwest from the lot across open country. This stem to the loop runs about 0.1 miles.

Where the trail divides, go right/west onto the loop, which quickly enters a forest. The majority of trees are stands of aspen, birch and pine.

White-tailed deer and black bear are the largest mammals in the area. Very rarely, moose and wolf make their way into this section of the Kabetogama.

Three songbirds
You have a much better chance of spotting three particular songbirds. Least flycatchers, mourning warblers, and Nashville warblers all make their home near the trail system. Both warblers are yellow-breasted with the mourning warbler nesting here.

Along the way, there are a few intersecting trails that take you deeper into the Gheen Hills. To stay on the loop, always make a left turn at a trail intersection.

When you exit the woods - you’ll be heading roughly northeast - you’ve reached the end of the loop, which runs about 0.4 miles. Go right/northeast onto the stem trail and return to the parking area.

In all, the trail is about 0.6 miles long.

Learn more about nearby day hiking trails in my Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota guidebook.

Best trails to see Voyageurs NP’s wonders

Ellsworth Rock Gardens. Photo courtesy of Voyageurs NPS.

Among the best ways to see Voyageurs National Park’s top sights is via a day hike. Just three short trails will allow you to enjoy each of the park’s highlights – border lakes, rock gardens, and boreal forests.

The remote national park in northern Minnesota can be reached via U.S. Hwy. 53, which runs north from Duluth, Minn., and east from International Falls, Minn. County Road 122 then leads to Kabetogama while County Road 129 heads to the Ash River resort area.

Border lakes
The U.S.-Canadian border runs through two of the park’s four scenic lakes, all of which are popular among canoeists, kayakers and fishermen for their unspoiled beauty. The 2.3-mile Echo Bay Trail runs through aspens and pines, past a great blue heron rookery, and along an overlook of one of those waterbodies, spectacular Kabetogama Lake, which covers 62 square miles.

Ellsworth Rock Gardens
Beginning in the 1940s, artist Jack Ellsworth created terraced flowerbeds on rock outcroppings that now sit inside the park; today, his work is often compared to that of modern sculptors. Boat tours from Kabetogama Visitor Center visit this site on the northern shore of Kabetogama Lake with short hiking paths through the gardens.

Boreal forests
The park marks the transition zone between the hardwood forests common in the United States to the conifer-based boreal forests of Canada. The latter can be experienced on any segment of the Kab-Ash Trail, which runs up to 26 miles through the park. One easy-to-reach section begins off of Mead Wood Road, which leads to the Ash River resort area and includes the brief Beaver Pond Overlook Trail.

Learn more about the park’s day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Voyageurs National Park guidebook.

Maps for major day hiking trails in Ely, Minn.

North American Bear Center Interpretive Trails

From waterfalls to walks around backwoods lakes, the Ely, Minn., offers a number of great day hiking trails to explore.

Surrounded by the Superior National Forest and considered the gateway to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness, Ely is prime hiking and camping country. Bear Head Lake State Park also is nearby.

Here are links to maps for a number of the area’s top trails (To read descriptions about the trails, simply enter the trail name in the search bar at the upper left of this web page):
• Angleworm Trail (SNF)
• Bass Lake Trail (SNF)
• Bambas Loop (Hidden Valley R.A.)
• Big Moose Hiking Trail (BWCAW)
• Burntside Lake North Arm Trail (BWCAW, Chippewa National Forest)
• Kawishiwi Falls Trail (SNF)
• Kekekabic Trail (BWCAW)
• Milt Stenlund Trail
• North American Bear Center Interpretive Trails
• Secret/Blackstone Trail segment
• Sioux Hustler Trail segment to Devil’s Cascade (BWCAW)
• Snowbank Lake Trail (BWCAW)
• Taconite State Trail (SNF)
• Tomahawk State Trail (SNF)
• Trezona Ski Trail
• Tri-Lake Loop Trail (Bear Head Lake State Park)

Read more about day hiking Northeast Minnesota in my Headin’ to the Cabin: Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota guidebook.

Trail runs along creek overlooks Great Lake

Map of Peace Ridge Trail

Short segment
often named
among best
of Superior
Hiking Trail

Day hikers can traipse along a rugged Northwoods creek then head out of the gorge to a fantastic view of the city of Duluth and Lake Superior on Minnesota’s Peace Ridge Trail.

The 3.4-mile round trip segment of the Superior Hiking Trail opened in 2005. Located in the city of Duluth, it’s easy to reach.

From Interstate 35 in Duluth, exit onto Central Avenue (Exit 252). Go north. Turn left on Highland Avenue. In one mile, the trail street reaches a five-way intersection with a parking lot on the right. Leave your vehicle at the lot.

The trail heads east from the lot. In 0.3 miles, it crosses Skyline Drive, and in another 200 feet, you’ll spot the Superior Hiking Trail marker.

Historic bridge
From there, the route descends into a rugged gorge where rustling Keene Creek flows off the bluff. Such streams are common in Duluth with most having formed at the end of the last ice age about 10,000 years ago.

The trail crosses the creek via a historic bridge. Motor vehicles once used the bridge when this route was Skyline Drive connecting Duluth and Proctor; it was built in 1914.

Next the trail veers northwest, paralleling the creek for the next 300 yards through Oneota Park. This is a rugged portion of the trail, built atop steep clay cliffs. The trail passes a few old structures along the way as well.

After the route then crosses Skyline Drive a second time, and the pathway turns to boardwalk crossing a lowland.

In quick order, the trail climbs out of the gorge through a rapidly changing mixed Northern hardwood forest. Aspen grows at the bottom with sugar maple and ironwood as nearing the top. Keep an eye out for wildlife in the area; whitetail deer and coyotes have been spotted here.

Peace Ridge
After passing a boulder split in two, the trail enters a forest of maples and red oak trees with Pennsylvania sedge as ground cover. This section includes crossing of a second, smaller creek.

At 1.3 miles from the parking lot, the trail at last reaches Peace Ridge in Brewer Park. The open side overlooks western Duluth from Minnesota Point to the St. Louis River mouth on Lake Superior. Among the many visible landmarks are the Enger Tower, Spirit Mountain, and the Aerial Lift Bridge.

The ridge gained its name because of major world events that occurred during scouting hikes for it. The first hike for the trail occurred on Sept. 11, 2001, and the second on Oct. 7, 2001, the day allied forces began bombing the Taliban in Afghanistan in response to the 9/11 attacks. A member of the scouting party suggested the trail be christened “Peace Ridge,” and the name aptly stuck.

The trail briefly re-enters the woods then at 1.7 miles comes to another overlook. This marks a good spot for a picnic or snack. After taking in the views, retrace your steps back to the trailhead.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Trail explores longest freshwater sandbar

Minnesota Point stretches from the Aerial Lift Bridge into Lake Superior.
Photo courtesy of Wikipedia.

Park Point trail
parallels shore
of Lake Superior

Sand dunes, a lighthouse ruin, and an old growth pine forest await day hikers on the Park Point Nature Trail in northern Minnesota.

The 4.4-miles round trip trail runs along the Minnesota portion of the world’s largest freshwater sandbar. At 10 miles in length, Minnesota and Wisconsin Points form a natural harbor that makes Duluth, Minn., and Superior, Wis., major international ports.

To reach the trailhead from Interstate 35, in downtown Duluth take the Lake Avenue exit south. Follow the road over the Aerial Lift Bridge onto Minnesota Point. On the point, the road becomes Minnesota Avenue. After passing Park Point but before reaching Sky Harbor airport, park off the road. The trail begins where Minnesota Avenue ends.

For about 0.3 miles, the trail runs alongside a fence on the airport’s north side. Lake Superior stretches beyond the beach to the north and east, but the view soon gives way to an old growth pine pine forest.

The white and red pines soaring into the sky over the trail are typical of evergreens that grow along sandbars and peninsulas in coastal areas. They are protected as part of the Minnesota Point Pine Forest Scientific and Natural Area.

Pumping stations for the cities of Superior and Cloquet’s drinking water halve the pine forest at 0.9 miles from the trailhead.

Sand dunes
Upon leaving the pines, the fairly flat trail goes up and down a little over grassy sand dunes. A number of spurs lead to either side of the sandbar; to the south/west is the Wisconsin mainland and city of Superior while to the north/east is Lake Superior.

You also can head over the sand dunes, but walking in soft sand often is harder than one might think. In addition, you want to stay on the trail to avoid stepping on heather and lichens thatre common in what locals call “The Barrens.”

If looking to dip your feet into the water, try the south/west side of the bar. The harbor water generally is warmer than that of the vast freshwater lake.

The Point Zero Lighthouse ruins are on the south/west side of the trail at 1.6 miles in. Spur trails lead to the lighthouse, which was built in 1858. A little farther along the walk are the buoy depot ruins.

The Cove
At 2.2 miles, the trail reaches its end at the concrete walls for the Superior Entry. This is the channel in which ships leave or enter Lake Superior. Opposite the entry is the Wisconsin portion of the sandbar with a modern, orange-roofed and white-walled lighthouse on the breakwall.

The beach between the sentry and the Minnesota Point breakwall is a nice spot for a picnic. Known as The Cove, the water there is warmer than that elsewhere on the sandbar’s lakeside beaches. Driftwood also can be collected.

After taking in the view, retrace your steps back to the parking area.

Before hitting this trail, make sure everyone in your party can identify poison ivy. It does grow at various spots along the way but can be avoided by not bushwhacking.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

When to hike Minnesota’s North Shore

Waves from Lake Superior crash against Minnesota's rocky North Shore.

The best months to day hike Minnesota’s North Shore are mid-May through September.

Depending on the year, April and October also can be pleasant.
During spring, waterfalls run at their highest levels, the bird migration is in full swing, and bugs are nil. Trails can be muddy, though, as snow typically melts between April and early May.

Unlike the rest of Minnesota, summers on the North Shore usually are not hot, as cool breezes off Lake Superior keep heat and most insects at bay. Rain, however, can occur during the afternoon even when the morning is sunny, so always check the weather forecast before heading out.

For many hikers, autumn marks the best time to hit a North Shore trail. By mid-August, summer’s bugs are gone, trails are mostly dry, and throughout September maples and aspen light the wilderness with color. A sweatshirt often is needed during the day, though, and nights can be chilly.

Mid-October through March usually is too cold and wet for day hiking. Once snow falls, trails typically are used for cross-country skiing, snowmobiling or snowshoeing.

Five great North Shore trails include:
• High Falls Trail (Tettegouche State Park)
• Ridge Loop Trail (Duluth)
• River View Trail (Gooseberry State Park)
• Shovel Point Trail (Tettegouche State Park)
• Split Rock Light Station Trail (Split Rock Lighthouse State Park)

Read more about day hiking Northeast Minnesota in my Headin’ to the Cabin: Day Hiking Trails of Northeast Minnesota guidebook.

Topo maps for great day hiking trails in Ely, Minn., area

No one ever should hit the trail without a topo map. Here are topo maps for three day hikes in the popular Ely, Minn. region.

Located in the Superior National Forest, Ely is a major gateway to the Boundary Waters Canoe Wilderness Area. Three state parks – most notably Bear Head Lake State Park – are nearby.

Trails are marked in yellow on the maps. Click each map or open it a new window for a larger, printable version.

Bambas Loop

Hidden Valley Recreation Area guide map (courtesy of Ely Nordic Ski Club)

Kawishiwi Falls Trail

Tri-Lake Loop Trail (courtesy of Minnesota DNR)

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.