Select best boot for terrain you’re hiking

Different hiking boots work better on different terrain.

Depending and when or where you hike, your feet have different needs to protect them and to ensure they can easily cross terrain.

While some avid backpackers have multiple hiking boots to meet different situations they encounter, for most day hiker that’s impractical. The challenge then is to find the right boot that works best in the conditions you most frequently hike.

Here are descriptions of the ideal hiking boot and sock for various terrain.

Desert trails
In the desert, you’ll want footwear with ankle support, that breathes, and that has a soft, flexible sole to ensure traction. To that end, wear lightweight, breathable hiking boots. Sandals will expose your skin to sunburn, thorns and sharp rocks while running shoes lack the ankle support needed for crossing rocky terrain.

Easy, dry trails
For flat, smooth, dry trails, sneakers and cross-trainers are just fine. If you really want to head onto less traveled roads or tackle areas that aren’t typically dry, though, you’ll need hiking boots.

Muddy trails
In some parts of the United States, such as the Pacific Northwest, trail sections will be muddy even after a few days of dry weather have passed. Sneakers quickly will become soaked and unable to traverse mud. Hiking boots with taller lugs will provide increased traction.

Snowy, icy trails
Waterproof boots that are insulated work best. About 400 grams of insulation will keep your feet warm in 20 below F conditions. If you snowshoe, make sure the boots are snowshoe compatible. If going above the tree line or onto glaciers, you’ll want the boots to be crampon compatible as well.

Rocky, steep trails
Once you start doing any rocky or steep trails, you’ll want hiking boots that offer rugged tread for handling the rough terrain. The boots also should be durable to withstand bends caused by uneven footfalls and so that sharp rocks can’t press against or pierce the leather.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Is trendy barefoot hiking the way to go?

To go barefoot or not to go barefoot, that is the question.
Photo courtesy of Photoree.

Among the hiking trends of the early 2010s is barefoot hiking, in which hiking boots, shoes and sandals are left at home. Instead, the trail is hit just as our ancient ancestors did it – with the sole of the foot literally hitting the dirt.

Those who champion barefoot hiking say it allows you to get better in touch with nature, as you literally remove the man-made materials separating your body from the environment. It certainly adds to the sensual experience of a hike, as the sole feels the ground’s different textures; indeed, that’s among the chief reasons many like to hike barefoot through a beach’s warm sand. Another reason to barefoot hike is increased agility and movement, which is easily achieved given that each of your boots and thick socks adds a few pounds of weight to your feet.

Still, unless walking across a clean beach or the grass of your own backyard that you’re familiar with, I’d advocate against barefoot hiking. Going barefoot may actually get you too in touch with nature, with pointed twigs, sharp rocks and insects piercing your skin, leading to infection or disease. The sole’s skin is very soft and thin, so even if nothing cuts through it, you’ll feel every small bump – from a pebble to half-buried stick – that you step on, and it’ll be irritating at first and then just plain painful. The padding and support a hiking boot delivers also helps absorb the shock on the sole and knee joints that comes with walking across rough terrain, especially if you’re lugging a backpack or a child carrier.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Knowing types of eyelet can help you select best hiking boot

Hiking boots can come with different types of eyelets: from left to right,
D-rings, webbing and combination of D-rings and hooks.
Photo courtesy of Photoree.

As with any shoe, to ensure your boot fits tight, you’ll lace them up and tie a knot. With hiking boots, however, you can choose from a variety of eyelets that the laces run through. Each eyelet offers various advantages and disadvantages that plays a role in deciding which boot to purchase.

Punched eyelets
The most common eyelet is a hole that has been punched out of the upper and then reinforced with a metal grommet; sometimes they are simply referred to as an eyelet. This kind of eyelet rarely breaks, making it the most durable of the types. Still, the cheaper the boot’s construction, the more likely the grommets will loosen and tear out of the upper. The primary problem with punched eyelets is that the lacing is not easy to adjust.

D-rings
D-rings are metal, D-shaped loops riveted to the upper. Laces are much easier to adjust with D-rings than with punched eyelets; they’re fairly durable as well but are more likely to tear out of the boot. The main downside is that each rivet can become a painful pressure point.

Hooks
These eyelets consist of an open-backed metal rivet attached to the upper; they sometimes are referred to as speed hooks because they can be laced very quickly. Their other primary advantage is that laces can be more easily adjusted than with any of the other eyelet types. The bad news is that hooks provide the least secure form of lacing. Loose laces can slip from the hook; laces, not to mention the hooks themselves, tend to bend and even break when caught on brush or rubbed against boulders.

Webbing
An alternative to metal hooks are loops of fabric. Lacing is slightly easier to adjust on webbing than with punched eyelets. They also increase the lifespan of your laces by causing less chafing than the other types of eyelets. However, the fabric loops tend to wear and can get caught on brush.

Combination
Some hiking boots use a combination of the above four types. The most common combos are using either D-rings or webbing for the eyelets nearest where the tongue attaches to the rest of the upper and then using hooks for the top three or four eyelets. This increases the eyelets’ overall durability while allowing for fast lacing.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

How to repair minor damage on hiking books

Sometimes hiking boots suffer small tears, loose soles and other damage. That doesn't mean you necessarily need to toss your boots and buy a new pair. If the damage is minor, sometimes you can repair the boot yourself.

Shoe repair kits are available at most outdoors store that sell hiking boots. Usually the kits contain useful shoe glue and quality patches.

Loose sole
Called delamination, this occurs when the manufacturer's glue no longer bonds the sole to the upper. Begin the repair by cleaning the upper’s leather and the sole’s rubber with alcohol pads. Next, apply a generous amount of shoe glue, specifically made of urethane, to where the sole meets the upper. Use weight to hold the sole and the upper tight to one another – duct tape works well for this – and let it dry overnight.

Pitted leather
So long as the hole hasn't gone all the way through the leather, superglue can be be used to fill the pit. Once the glue dries, sand down the glue to ensure it’s even with the surrounding upper.

Torn leather along sole
You can hand sew a leather patch over the boot’s ripped up portion. Begin by cutting an unfinished suede leather patch so it neatly covers the affected area. Use shoe glue to hold the patch in place. Finally, sew the patch into the leather; be forewarned that leather is difficult to sew through, and you may want to find a professional to repair this damage.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Three ways boots can come waterproofed

Wet boots are heavier than dry ones, which is just one of many good reasons
to get waterproofed boots. Photo courtesy of ise_80 / Photoree.

When day hiking in the wilds, you’ll generally want to wear waterproof boots. You may have to cross small streams, muddy trails, or dew-covered grass. Any of those situations as well as others can leave your feet wet and uncomfortable while making the walk more difficult, as wet boots are heavier.

There generally are three ways your boots are waterproofed.

One method is breathable lining. Fabrics such as Gore-Tex are sewed into the boot to keep moisture from passing to the sock and foot. The downside of such waterproofing is that the outside of the boot still absorbs water, resulting in increased wear and tear on the footwear, not to mention leaving the boots heavier so long as they are wet.

Another method is waterproof leather. In this case, an external coating – such as a durable water-repellent treatment (also known as DWR), oil or wax – is applied to the leather. Poorly constructed boots still will let water in if stitches are missing or threads are loose. If the boots become saturated, the coating likely won’t be enough to keep your feet dry.

A third method is boot construction aimed at preventing moisture from getting to the sock and foot. Such construction includes taping or sealing seams as well as using special stitching.

Typically, at least two of the methods are employed in any hiking boot you purchase.

Your best bet is to get a hiking boot with breathable lining and then add a DWR on your own. Another reasonable alternative is to go with waterproof leather that boasts superior construction, though this is the most expensive route.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Know parts of hiking boot to find best one

Hiking boots consist of eight general parts.
Photo courtesy of TheGiantVermin / Photoree.

When checking out footwear at a store, the salesperson may use various terms to describe the boot's parts. Or, to explain what is wrong with a pair you’ve tried on, you might want to know what a specific part is called to better communicate your concerns.

A hiking boot consists of seven general parts:
g Sole – This is the bottom of the boot that touches the ground. The sole should have rubber grooves that allow you to maintain your footing on rugged terrain. It also should be thick enough to absorb the shock of each footfall.
g Upper – The boot that fits around your foot is the upper. It should be sturdy and snug fitting to both protect the foot from branches, root and rocks and to support your foot. It usually is made of leather or a synthetic material, such as Gore-Tex. Always opt for a hiking boot that is water-repellent yet also breathes.
g Eyelets/laces – The eyelets are placed into the upper so that laces may be strung through them to keep the boot snug against the foot.
g Tongue – Connected to the upper, the tongue sits beneath the laces. It ought to be soft enough to prevent the laces from digging into the foot yet sturdy and wide enough to keep tiny stones, twigs and other debris from slipping into the boot.
g Insoles – Also known as footbeds, these are the pads inside the boot the sit atop the sole. The more an insole matches your foot shape, the more support and balance you’ll have when walking.
g Linings/paddings – At various spots on the upper are thick sections. These keep your foot from chafing against the material the upper is made of.
g Shanks – Either metal or plastic pieces are added to the upper to ensure the boot remains stiff. Shanks come in different lengths, usually half-length, three-quarters, or full-length.
g Scree collars – These prevent the Achilles tendon and ankle from chafing against the upper shoe’s material.

In addition, some hiking boots come with crampon connections. These allow you to add a crampon – a metal plate with spikes that makes walking on ice and rock climbing easier – onto your boot so that you have better traction on snow and ice. For day hiking purposes, crampon connections aren’t necessary.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

How to select the best hiking boot for kids

Our feet mark the most important “piece of gear” any hiker can have. If children have poor footwear that cause their feet to ache, you can bet that the hike will soon be over. Given this, selecting a good hiking boot for a child is vital.

Look for the following qualities in a hiking boot:
g Fit – Ill-fitting boots means blisters and foot pain. A boot should feel snug, yet you should be able to wriggle toes and have no pressure points. Some parents purchase a boot one shoe size too big for the child so that it can accommodate the thicker socks that hiking requires.
g Support – A good boot for day hiking will have a soft collar to support the ankle and to keep pebbles or other debris from getting into the shoe. Ankle-high boots will give good support without restricting movement. Velcro straps are fine for toddlers, but older children will benefit from laces, as they help reduce slippage. If the boot allows your foot to flatten out, then it’s not providing enough arch support.
g Sturdy – The sole and the boot’s upper part should be firmly attached. It ought to be flexible enough that you have a full range of motion but not at the price of the boot stressing so it can’t provide support.
g Water-resistant – A boot needs to keep moisture from getting to the foot, but it also needs to breathe so the foot doesn’t get swampy, as this can lead to discomfort and blisters. Waterproof boots won’t breathe. For winter hikes and trails in wetlands, waterproof boots are a must, however.
g Traction – You want thick, nonskid rubber soles, which are good for keeping your footing on a variety of terrain, such as slippery wet rocks, mud and sand. The outsole, or the bottom front of the shoe that hits the terrain, should have deep indentations or grooves to improve your grip on slippery surfaces.
g Durable – The boot should last a few years. Children always should be able to outgrow a boot.

Read more about day hiking with children in my Hikes with Tykes guidebooks.