Hike past granite boulders on trail segment

Families can hike a forested mountainside past giant granite boulders on a segment of the Smith Peak Trail at Yosemite National Park.

Located in the park’s Hetch Hetchy section, the 2.32-miles round trip trail is one of two routes to Smith Peak (The other is described in the Lookout Trail description.). This option makes a nice alternate route as the more popular trail that leaves from the ranger station can be soggy in springtime.

To reach the trailhead, from Yosemite Valley drive Big Oak Flat road north to Calif. Hwy. 120. Turn left onto Hwy. 120. Past Hodgdon Meadow Campground, turn right onto Evergreen Road. In about eight miles is a T-intersection at Camp Mather; turn right at this intersection onto Hetch Hetchy Road. After passing the Hetch Hetchy Entrance Station, in six miles you’ll see a pullout on the road’s north side. The trailhead is east of the pullout on the road’s south side.

The trail crosses through forest with a number of boulders around you. Among the dominant trees are California black oak, gray pine and incense cedar. Spring and early summer offer a variety of wildflowers along the way, including buttercup, lupine, monkey flower and wallflower.

Virtually all of the rocks you’ll see are granite, which sparkle in the sunlight. Millions of years ago, magma several thousand feet beneath the surface crystalized and hardened as it cooled. Since that time, erosion from rain, streams, wind and glaciers have eroded the topsoil as tectonic action thrust the mountain higher.

Smith Peak, the highest point on the horizon, sits east of the trail. Named after a sheep farmer who used the Hetch Hetchy Valley as a summer pasture, the peak tops out at 7751 feet and offers views of the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir to the north.

In 1.16 miles, the trail comes to a junction, which marks a good turnaround point. If going left/east, you’re on your way to Smith Peak, which is 5.48 miles away; if going straight/south, you’re heading back to the Mather Ranger Station, which is about 6 miles away.

There are some open spots on this segment, so don sunscreen before setting out.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Day hike to little known 90-story waterfall

Wapama Falls. Photo courtesy
Yosemite NPS.

Spring walk offers benefit of additional
waterfall in Hetch Hetchy region

Families can day hike to a little known 1,080-foot waterfall on the Wapama Falls Trail in Yosemite National Park.

The 5.5-miles round-trip in the park’s Hetch Hetchy section is little traveled compared to those in Yosemite Valley, making it a perfect hike for those who want to get close up and personal with one of the park’s many wonders. Spring marks the best time to hike the trial, as you’ll get to see an extra waterfall and wildflowers galore. Don't go too early in spring, however, as the heavy water flow can make the trail impassable.

To reach the trailhead, from Yosemite Valley drive Big Oak Flat road north to Calif. Hwy. 120. Turn left onto Hwy. 120. Past Hodgdon Meadow Campground, turn right onto Evergreen Road. In about eight miles is a T-intersection at Camp Mather; turn right at this intersection onto Hetch Hetchy Road, which after a few miles strangely enough becomes Evergreen Road again.

The parking lot is on an expansive pullout southwest of the dam. The trailhead starts at the dam, which you get to cross the top of. Sitting at an elevation of 3,728 feet, O'Shaughnessy Dam is a 430-foot high concrete arch-gravity dam. Holding back the Tuolumne River, it opened in 1923.

Along the reservoir
After crossing the curved dam top, the trail descends somewhat and runs along the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir’s shoreline. At 8-miles long, the 117 billion-gallon reservoir supplies drinking water to 2.4 million residents and industrial users in the Bay Area some 150 miles to the west.

Along the way, the conical-shaped Kolana Rock stands out across the blue reservoir. The granite dome towers 2000 feet above the water.

After about a mile, the path junctions with a trail that switchbacks up the gorge’s side. Continue east, paralleling the reservoir’s shore.

About 1.8 miles from the trailhead, during spring the trail passes Tueeualala Falls. The water is overflow from Falls Creek, which feeds Wapama Falls. At 800-foot high, for about 600 of those feet the water falls free at Tueeualala. A wooden footbridge heads over the fall’s base as the water rushes into the reservoir.

Wapama Falls
At 2.25 miles from the trailhead is the base of Wapama Falls, where rainbows rise in the mist as the water tumbles 1,080 feet into the reservoir. Flowing out of Vernon Lake to the northwest, upon reaching the gorge’s rim the creek hits three drops, with the longest of them 300 feet high.

The waterfall actually once was 1480 feet high, but Hetch Hetchy Reservoir submerged more than a third of it. Still, today it ranks as the world’s 148th highest waterfall in world; if not for the reservoir, it would rank 133rd highest.

In spring, you’ll get wet if crossing the bridges at either falls, so bring along rain gear or a change of dry clothes in a waterproof bag. If water is flowing over a bridge, for safety’s sake, do not cross it.

After taking in the views at Wapama Falls, head back the way you came. Note that the Hetch Hetchy entrance gate closes by 9 p.m. in summer and earlier the rest of the year, so leave well before nightfall.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Hike to rocky vista of Hetch Hetchy Valley

Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.
Photo courtesy Yosemite NPS.

Steady climb leads to panoramic view
of dam, reservoir, countryside

Day hikers can enjoy an impressive outlook of the famous Hetch Hetchy Valley via the Lookout Point Trail at Yosemite National Park.

The 2.8-miles round-trip demands a steady climb to the lookout, with a 500-foot elevation gain, but the out-and-back trail isn’t steep. May through mid-June marks the best time to visit, as water flow over the waterfalls is at its highest and wildflowers abound along the way. However, if snowfall was high during the winter, that will leave you with a few small streams to cross.

Bear-proof your vehicle
To reach the trailhead, from Yosemite Valley, drive Big Oak Flat road north to Calif. Hwy. 120. Turn left onto Hwy. 120. Past Hodgdon Meadow Campground, turn right onto Evergreen Road. In about eight miles is a T-intersection at Camp Mather; turn right at this intersection onto Hetch Hetchy Road. In a mile is the Hetch Hetchy Entrance Station.

Park at a pullout just beyond the entrance station; the trailhead is across the road. If the pullout is full, explain to the station attendant that you wish to hike to Lookout Point, and typically you’ll be cleared to park in the lots for one of the nearby buildings. Also, if you have food in your car – even if it’s just a simple candy bar – be sure to store it in the bear-proof storage lockers at the pullout.

The trailhead begins at about 4,750 feet above sea level. Within a few yards you’ll have to pass through the first of two gates to the lookout. From there, the trail parallels the road for about a third of a mile.

In about a mile, the trail forks. Go left for the final stretch to a rocky outcropping that overlooks Hetch Hetchy Valley. Lookout Point’s elevation is 5,280 feet.

Dam, reservoir, waterfall
The point offers a 360 degree panorama of the area. Gazing from southwest to northeast is the Hetch Hetchy Valley. West of the valley, the landscape descends into California’s agricultural Central Valley; east of the valley, it rises to the highest points of the Sierra.

The highlights are all to the valley’s northeast: Partial views of the eight-mile long Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, of the O'Shaughnessy Dam, and of Wapama Falls. The dam holds back the Tuolumne River to form the 117 billion-gallon reservoir, which supplies drinking water to 2.4 million residents and industrial users in the Bay Area. Wampama Falls drains into the reservoir’s north side.

After taking in the views, head back the way you came. Be sure to do so in plenty of time before darkness falls; during summer the road gates at Camp Mather close no later than 9 p.m. and sometimes earlier (The Yosemite road conditions line at 209-372-0200 – enter 1 after the first two voice prompts – lists the current closing time.).

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks guidebook.

Enjoy hike to little known Yosemite shoreline

Brown trout - nonative to Yosemite National Park
- are common on the Tuolumne River in the
Poopenaut Valley. Photo courtesy Yosemite NPS.

Trail includes 1,229-foot descent
in Hetch Hetchy section

Yosemite National Park day hikers can head to a secluded and utterly peaceful section of the Tuolumne River on the Poopenaut Valley Trail.

The 2.6-mile round-trip trail in the park’s Hetch Hetchy section isn’t for slouches, though. It involves a 1,299-foot descent – which has to be hiked back up – and so only families with older teenagers or college-aged kids should tackle it.

Summer marks the best time to hike the trail, as the river valley is pleasantly comfortable. Of course, the ascent will be made all that more difficult by the increasingly warm air as one gains elevation, so make sure you plenty of drinking water.

Shade trees and boulders
To reach the trailhead, from Yosemite Valley, drive Big Oak Flat road north to Calif. Hwy. 120. Turn left onto Hwy. 120. Past Hodgdon Meadow Campground, turn right onto Evergreen Road. In about eight miles is a T-intersection at Camp Mather; turn right at this intersection onto Hetch Hetchy Road. After passing the Hetch Hetchy Entrance Station, in four miles you’ll see a sign for the trail on the road’s left side. Park on the turnout on the road’s right side.

The trail starts in open country and parallels the road for a few dozen feet and then enters woodland where it quickly begins the long descent into the Poopenaut Valley. There are some steep sections, so watch your footing.

Upon reaching the river valley, you’ll find yourself in a pleasant meadow with lots of large boulders perfect for relaxing upon. This section of the river is about four miles below the O’Shaughnessy Dam, which holds back the river to form the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.

Black cottonwood, red willow and shiny willow dominate the valley floor with sedge grasses covering the marshy section. You’ll also find cottonwood, ponderosa pine, white alder, and white fir here. Brown and rainbow trout, with brown dominating in this section of the valley, are common in the river.

Polar plunge
Though the calm river water looks like the perfect swimming hole, be prepared for it to be ice cold. The river flows off the High Sierra snowmelt and won’t warm up for many more miles downstream.

After taking in the scenes and resting for a while, make the long trek back up. Be sure to pace yourself and remember that an ascent takes much longer than the descent. Leave in plenty of time before darkness falls; during summer the road gates at Camp Mather close no later than 9 p.m. and sometimes earlier (The Yosemite road conditions line at 209-372-0200 – enter 1 after the first two voice prompts – lists the current closing time.).

A couple of other safety notes: Be careful of poison oak along the way. Also, some hikers have reported rattlesnakes on the trail, so remain alert.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.