Autumn hikes on Minn.-Wis. border, Part I

Mount Charity, Minnesota

If living in a border county or traveling near the Wisconsin-Minnesota state line, plenty of great autumn trails await.

Southern and central Minnesota’s border with Wisconsin follows the Mississippi River from Prescott, Wis., south to the Iowa border. Maple, basswood, oak, aspen and birch dominate.

Minnesota

Dakota County
Day hikers can enjoy modern sculptures in a forest setting at the Caponi Art Park in Eagan. A variety of pathways head through the 60-acre site that in autumn is made all that more magical by the changing leaves of birch, maple and basswood. Most of the sculptures were created by Italian-born Anthony Caponi, who as an adult adopted Minnesota as his home. From Interstate 35 in Eagan, take Diffley Road east. Turn right/southeast and park in the lot. The art park is on both sides of the highway with an underpass connecting them.

Goodhue County
Hikers can traverse the top and the base of a bluff looming 430 feet above Lake Pepin at Frontenac State Park. The 2.6-mile Bluff Side Loop Trail offers impressive views as it heads up and down the steep bluff with a series of wooden stairs and switchbacks. Fall is a particularly good time to visit with the bird migration through the area at its peak and the leaves resplendent in an array of harvest colors. A couple of picnic spots along the way offer vistas of the lake below with the visible Wisconsin shoreline about two miles away. From the park entrance, go left/northwest on County Road 28; follow the road to its end, where it loops back upon itself and forms a parking lot.

Houston County
Among the most scenic hikes in Minnesota is the Root River State Trail, and that’s especially so in autumn. A range of fall colors line the trail, thanks to the great variety of trees that grow there. Riverside features black ash, willow, box elder, cottonwood and elm while the highlands boast maples, basswood and oaks. A great segment of the trail to hike begins in Houston and runs 2.3 miles west to a picnic area for a 4.6-mile round trip. From Minn. Hwy. 76 in Houston, turn north on Plum Street and park at the Houston Nature Center. The nature center, as well as the International Owl Center just two blocks away, are well worth a visit, and if you have little ones, they’ll love the playground near the trailhead.

Wabasha County
One of the best urban areas in the Midwest to enjoy fall colors in the small town of Wabasha. For seven weeks from September through October, the small town celebrates a harvest festival. You can enjoy the festivities and take a nice stroll on the 0.8-mile round trip riverwalk. The Wisconsin shoreline on the opposite side of the Mississippi River is lit up in golden hues, the perfect match to the streets’ autumn decorations. To reach the riverwalk, park in downtown Wabasha. Finding a spot on Big Jo Alley near Pembroke Avenue is best, as the National Eagle Center is at the corner of those two streets. The riverwalk is behind the center.

Washington County
The fresh scent of pine needles upon the pathway and the gentle rush of water along the river’s rock walls instantly lulls you into a feeling of serenity on the Riverside Trail at William O’Brien State Park. The 1.5-mile trail loops through a floodplain and typically is open during summer and autumn when water levels have gone down. Roughly half of the trail follows the river, mainly through a good mix of hardwoods common to a floodplain forest in this region. During autumn, their leaves turn gold, red, orange and brown. Across the water is Wisconsin, and with the two undeveloped shorelines, tranquility reigns. From Marine on St. Croix, Minn., take Minn. Hwy. 95 north into the park. Turn right/east onto O’Brien Trail North/County Road 33. The road curves south, dead ending in a parking area alongside Lake Alice. The trail begins at the picnic grounds immediately east of the parking lot.

Winona County
A great view of the Mississippi River awaits at the Great River Bluffs State Park on the 2.2-mile round trip Kings Bluff Trail. After heading through a forest of white pine and the yellow to maroon-colored leaves of ash trees, the trail arrives at Kings Bluff, which offers a spectacular vista of the river valley below, a blue ribbon surrounded by the yellows of various birch and aspen. From Interstate 90 at the Minnesota-Wisconsin border, take County Road 3 north. Turn right/east onto Kipp Drive, which becomes Park Road. About two miles in, look for a small parking lot on the left/northwest. The trail heads northwest from the lot.

Wisconsin

Pierce County
Hikers can walk through a rare old growth oak forest on the Purple Trail at Kinnickinnic State Park. The 1.2-mile loop sits near the confluence of the St. Croix and Kinnicknnic rivers. Pioneers and 19th century logging companies cut most of the trees in this part of Wisconsin, but the trail passes through one of the few woodlands to escape the ax. The oaks are majestic, especially when their leaves turn tan, orange and brown in autumn. The trail includes a deck overlooking the confluence where eagles can be spotted. From Prescott, take Wis. Hwy. 29 east then turn left/north County Road F north. Turn left/west onto 820th Avenue then left/south into the park; follow the entry road west all of the way to its end and park in the St. Croix Picnic Area Lot.

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Amber, orange and crimson leaves surround and reflect off of the blue waters at Nugget Lake County Park east of Ellsworth. The Nook Trail and the Lake Overlook combine for a mile-long round trip that gets you up close to 117-acre Nugget Lake and to a great vista of it. From Ellsworth, take U.S. Hwy. 10 east. Turn left/north onto County Road CC then right/east onto County Road HH, which curves south. The park entry is on the road’s right/west side. Park in the lot where the road runs out.

Pepin County
Day hikers can explore a bluff steeped in majestic white oaks and legend high above Lake Pepin. The Maiden Rock Bluff Trail runs 1.4-miles round trip in west-central Wisconsin overlooking beautiful Lake Pepin. It’s located in the Maiden Rock State Natural Area, which preserves a blufftop prairie that turns golden in autumn. From Stockholm, take County Road J north. Turn left/northwest onto County Road E then go left/west into Long Lane. The road dead ends at a grassy parking lot on the blufftop. A trailhead is a few yards east of the lot and heads north from the road.

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Day hikers can enjoy a walk alongside a lake and through the woods on the Silver Birch Park Trail. The 0.6-mile round trip trail runs through Silver Birch Park to Holden Park Campground. As if it were a mirror, Silver Birch Lake impressively reflects the blue sky and clouds on days when the wind is low. The reflection seems to stretch forever – not surprisingly as the lake’s surface area covers 145 acres. A tree canopy covers the walking path, which makes for a nice autumn stroll when leaves change color. From Durand, head west on Wis. Hwy. 25 then turn left/south onto County Road P. Go left/south onto Silver Birch Road. At County Road NN/Round Hill Road, turn right/west. The next left/south is the park entry road.

Buffalo County
Day hikers can see ancient fossils on a spectacular vista that one time sat at the bottom of the sea. The 0.22-miles round trip Buena Vista Overlook Trail marks a must-see for anyone traveling the Wisconsin side of the Mississippi River. Located in Alma’s Buena Vista County Park, it’s an easy walk and a spectacular one in autumn. From the vista, a rainbow of leaf colors lead downhill to large swaths of gold around the Mississippi River. From Wis. Hwy. 35 in Alma, turn east onto County Road E; known as North Street in town, it curves and becomes Second Street then curls again as ascending the bluff. Near the top, turn left/north onto Buena Vista Road. The road dead ends at the park entrance.

Trempealeau County
Great views of the Mississippi River await at Perrot State Park. The 2.4-miles round trip Brady’s Bluff West and East trails are particularly impressive in autumn. Start up Brady’s Bluff West Trail and pause at the hill’s summit, which offers impressive views of the Mississippi River Valley, a brilliant blue ribbon through a forest of golden leaves. Descending the summit via the Brady’s Bluff East Trail heads through a woods of russet-leaved oaks. From Wis. Hwy. 35 in Trempealeau, take 10th Street west. Turn right/north onto Park Road, which becomes South Park Road. Park in the lot before the boat launch; the trailhead is on the opposite side of the road.

La Crosse County
Hikers can head through an oak woodland to the top of a bluff at Wisconsin’s Hixon Forest Nature Center. The 3-mile round-trip Lookout Trail, reached via a segment of the Sumac Trail, sits at the edge of the La Crosse metro area. The trail is exceptional during autumn when acorns and leaves cover the trail beneath a harvest-hued canopy. Fall leaves in their expansive canopy range from brown and wine-red to orange-red on the white oaks and the golden leaves, which are far richer than the yellows of the sugar maple, of the shagbark hickory. Also look for the hickory’s fragrant, edible nut; it has a sweet flavor. From U.S. Hwy. 53 in La Crosse, go east on La Crosse Street. Turn left/north onto Wis. Hwy. 16/Losey Boulevard North then right/east onto Bluff Pass Road and right/south onto Milson Court. The road ends at a gravel parking lot.

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Autumn colors and great views await in the Greens Coulee-Savanna Oaks site in Onalaska. The Mississippi River Valley Conservancy's 81 acres includes a scenic bluff that rises 400 feet above the valley floor adjacent to the city’s Greens Coulee Park. A 1.4-mile lollipop-plus route heads to the bluff's peak, where reds, oranges and yellows fill much of the fall canopy along the way. From the intersection of U.S. Hwy. 53 and East Main Street in Onalaska, take the latter east. Turn left/northeast onto Green Coulee Road then right onto Clifford Drive. Look for the kiosk at the of the cul-de-sac, where parking is available.

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Hikers can walk alongside and cross a stream via five different bridges on the Halfway Creek Trail. The 3.4-mile trail connects Holmen to the Great River State Trail in Midway. Maple, aspen, oak and the occasional pine line the creek, making for a colorful autumn walk. Start at Halfway Creek Park in Holmen; the trailhead is on the park’s southwest side. One good turnaround spot to avoid crossing under U.S. Hwy. 53 is the connector trail to Judith Court for a 1.13-mile round trip and three bridge crossings.

Vernon County
Hikers can step back in time and walk through the woods as in the days of old at Wildcat Mountain State Park. The rugged 2.5-mile Old Settlers’ Trail includes 390-feet of elevation change as heading through a forest of sugar maple, basswood and oak, all very colorful in autumn. An additional 0.8-mile round trip spur goes to the Taylor Hollow Overlook, which offers a fantastic view of the village of Ontario in the coulee below. From Westby, take Wis. Hwy. 27 north. In Cashton, turn right/east onto Wis. Hwy. 33. Once in the park, go left/east past the park office and at the split turn left/northwest to the Upper Picnic Area. Park there; a connector trail goes north to the Old Settlers’ Trail.

Variety of great sights await at Frontenac SP

The bluff at Frontenac State Park offers a majestic view of Lake Pepin.
Photo courtesy of Minnesota DNR.

Frontenac State Park trail map.
Click for larger version.
Map courtesy of MNDNR.

Impressive views of scenic Lake Pepin, a rare limestone arch, and prairieland await hikers at Minnesota’s Frontenac State Park.

To reach the park, from Red Wing, Minn., take U.S. Hwy 61 south. In Frontenac Station, turn left/northeast onto County Road 2 and follow the road into the park.

Some of the park’s must-do trails include:
• Bluff Side Loop Trail – Hikers can traverse the top and the base of a bluff looming 430 feet above Lake Pepin and see a natural limestone arch, a rare sight in the Midwest, along the way. The 2.6-mile trail offers impressive views as it heads up and down the steep bluff with a series of wooden stairs and switchbacks. Yan Teopa Rock, one of Minnesota’s few arches, is nearly halfway through the hike.
• Eagle Point Trail – Made up of a few shorter linked trails (this is not an official trail on state park maps), the route heads to Eagle Point, which offers a great view of Lake Pepin and the historic Old Frontenac village to the east. The hike runs 2.2-miles round trip from trail intersection F to L to K to J and then to the point.
• Hiking Club Trail – A collection of small connecting trails, this route serves as a sampler plate of Frontenac’s best sights, including Lake Pepin views, hardwood forest, prairie, and steps up and down small portions of the bluff. The trail is a 2.6-miles loop and marked in yellow on park maps.
• Pine Loop Trail – The 0.5-miles loop overlooks Old Frontenac and Lake Pepin has heading through an old pine plantation. It must be reached by taking a set of other unnamed trails from Trail Intersection F to H to M for a 1.3-miles round trip.
• Prairie Loop Trail – A mowed trail heads through prairie grasses and wildflowers common to the Great Plains and then alongside the north shore of Pleasant Valley Lakelet. The 3-miles round trip hike includes a short spur to a wildlife observation blind on Wells Creek that is excellent for observing migrating birds.
• Riverview Trail – Hikers can explore the blufftop woodlands without ever being far from civilization on this 0.8-miles one-way trail. Paved and wheelchair accessible, it also boasts three fantastic overlooks of Lake Pepin.
• Sand Point Trail – You can take in a great view of Lake Pepin and maybe glimpse a sea monster while doing so on the Sand Point. Reports of Pepie – as the monster locally has come to be known – date to before pioneer times and have occurred as recently as a couple of years ago. The 1.4-mile round trip trail leads to the lake’s shore while heading through a swampy area perfect for creatures of the deep to hide.
• Self-guided Interpretive Trail – The 0.7-mile loop heads from an overlook of Lake Pepin to partway down the bluff through a limestone rock quarry from the 1880s. Though steep with stairs and some gravel surfaces, the route offers awesome views of the blufflands and the lake the entire way. It is marked green on state park maps.
• Sliding Hill Trail – You can enjoy a walk through a meadow to a hilltop with a view on this 0.6-miles round trip trail. The Sliding Hill Trail (not its official name but used here for convenience’s sake) is an easy walk near the park’s entry. While most come to the state park for the views of Lake Pepin, this trail offers glimpses of what lies just a few miles west of the hilly Mississippi River Valley, where a flat prairie stretches to South Dakota.
• Trail Intersection Z Loop – The easy 0.4-miles loop runs through a small woodlands at the bottom of a bluff off of Hwy. 61. Park in the lot for the Sand Point Trail trailhead and from the gravel end of County Road 2 carefully cross the highway to the loop.
• Villa Marie Trail – The 0.7-miles loop is a side trail off the Prairie Loop Trail that heads through more prairie and alongside a small wooded area. Take a segment of the Prairie loop starting at trail intersection T to the Villa Marie for a 2.3-miles round trip lollipop trail.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Walkable breakwater heads into Lake Pepin

Breakwater on Lake City Concourse

Day hikers can walk a historic overlook and breakwater into Lake Pepin on the Lake City Concourse.

The hike atop a breakwater for the Lake City, Minn., marina runs about 700 feet one way. The walls on the shoreline are an example of National Park Service Rustic Style, popular for public amenities during their construction.

To reach the concourse, in downtown Lake City park in the turnout off of U.S. Hwy. 61 near Elm Street.

Stone side walls and the concourse – a large, curving wall around a viewing bay – were constructed in 1938-40 as a rest area for weary Hwy. 61 travelers. The National Youth Administration erected the walls.

The side walls, built of tan and rubble limestone, were completed by October 1938. Rising 2-feet-6-inches high – perfect for sitting on – they are 18 inches thick.

Lake City Concourse map

The curving lookout bays were made from coursed ashlar, masonry made of large cut stones. The lookout bays extend 16 feet to the northeast and southeast.

Stone for the walls was quarried locally in Lake City and nearby Frontenac. Exactly where the limestone came from has been lost to time, but the same kind of Shakopee and St. Lawrence dolomite caps the local bluffs.

Originally flagstone was set in the concourse walkway. Some of it is still exposed, but most of it has been covered with asphalt or replaced by concrete. When constructed, the parking lot was gravel with limestone curbing.

Little else has changed during the past eight or so decades. A flagpole and potted plants have been added. During the 1960s, for a years a standard wooden hanging-arm sign stood announcing the roadside parking area. A stone marker was added in 1971 and a metal marker in 1988.

Openings in the stone wall allow visitors to head to the breakwater. The path first passes a small sand beach on the wall’s southeast side.

As heading onto the breakwater, the tall masts of sailboats in the Lake City Marina rise to the north. Blue Lake Pepin spreads out in front of you, with the high bluffs of the Wisconsin shoreline on the lake’s opposite side.

In the days before plastics, the lake was a busy spot. Clams from the Upper Mississippi River supplied shells that made almost half of the world’s buttons. Lake City was among those production centers; workers here sawed button “blanks” that then were shipped to La Crosse, Wis., and Muscatine, Iowa, for finishing.

And in the days before the overlook was constructed, you might have spotted someone waterskiing on the lake. Ralph Samuelson in 1922 invented waterskiing in Lake City when he stuck boards to his feet, used clothesline for tow rope, and had his brother Ben drive the boat.

To extend the walk, head up the city’s River Walk, which the concourse joins.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Hike heads through restored prairie area

The Sliding Hill Trail crosses a small meadow.

Sliding Hill Trail, courtesy Minnesota DNR.

Day hikers can enjoy a walk through a meadow to a hilltop with a view on the Sliding Hill Trail at Minnesota’s Frontenac State Park.

Running 0.6-miles round trip, the Sliding Hill Trail (not its official name but used here for convenience’s sake) is an easy walk near the park’s entry. While most come to the state park for the views of Lake Pepin, this trail offers glimpses of what lies just a few miles west of the hilly Mississippi River Valley, where a flat prairie stretches to South Dakota.

To reach the trailhead, from U.S. Hwy 61 turn northeast in Frontenac Station onto County Road 2. Immediately after the Hill Avenue intersection, turn left/northwest and enter the park. Find a space in the parking lot at the park office. The trail leaves from the lot’s northern corner.

A swath of mowed grass, the trail crosses a small meadow. Prairie grasses and wildflowers flourish here, and under a big blue sky gives you a fleeting feel of what walking on the Great Plains is like.

Beginning in the mid-1980s, the state park began a concerted effort to restore its prairie areas. The aim is for the park to appear as it did prior to Euro-American settlement in the 1800s.

The restored prairie area is home to a number of birds. A major stopover each spring and autumn for migrating birds on the Mississippi Flyway, quite a number of them can be spotted in the meadow. Among them are bobolinks, eastern bluebirds, eastern kingbirds, eastern meadowlarks, grasshopper sparrows, Henslow’s sparrows, and sedge wrens.

At 0.2 miles from the trailhead, the path reaches a junction. Go left/northwest, climbing a small hill that over 0.1 miles rises about 60 feet above the meadow.

In winter, this portion of the trail becomes a locally popular sliding hill. During any time of the year, though, the hilltop offers great views of the meadow below and park office in the distance.

The hilltop trees attract different kinds of birds than on the meadow below. More than 20 species of woodland-loving warblers have been spotted in the park, which has the garnered the nickname “The Warbler Capital.”

After taking in the sights, retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Lake Pepin hikes abound in Lake City, Minn.

Lake Pepin from Frontenac State Park.

Several great beachfronts and other trails await day hikers in Lake City, Minn.

The city of a little more than 5000 sits on Lake Pepin, the widest portion of the Mississippi River. It’s known as “The birthplace of waterskiing,” so appropriately many of its hiking trails are close to the lake. Located a little more than an hour’s drive from Minneapolis-St. Paul, the quickest way to reach it is via U.S. Hwy 61.

Among the great trails in or near Lake City are:
• Bluff Side Loop Trail – Hikers can traverse the top and the base of a bluff looming 430 feet above Lake Pepin at Frontenac State Park northwest of town. The 2.6-mile loop offers impressive views as it heads up and down the steep bluff with a series of wooden stairs and switchbacks. Fall is a particularly good time to visit with the bird migration through the area at its peak and the leaves resplendent in an array of harvest colors.
• Hok-Si-La beach walk – Birdwatching is a popular activity on the half-mile of beachfront at the Hok-Si-La Municipal Park and Campground at the city’s north end on Hwy. 61. The campground sits on a peninsula jutting into Lake Pepin at its midpoint.
• Lake City Concourse – A walk atop a breakwater for the marina runs about 700 feet one way. The masts tall of sailboats rise to one side of the walk while the lake and Wisconsin bluffs beyond stretch across the other. Park in the turnout off of Hwy. 61 near Elm Street.
• Lake City River Walk – This paved route runs 2.5 miles between Roschen Park and Central Point Road. As much of it runs alongside busy Hwy. 61, opt to instead parallel it by walking along the beach. Eagle viewing is excellent here from late February through March.
• Sand Point Trail – Day hikers at Frontenac State Park can take in a great view of Lake Pepin – and maybe glimpse a sea monster while doing so. Reports of Pepie – as the monster locally has come to be known – date to before pioneer times and have occurred as recently as a couple of years ago. The 1.4-mile round trip trail runs to the lake’s shore while heading through a swampy area perfect for creatures of the deep to hide.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Great day hikes found in Red Wing, Minn.

Memorial Park overlook of Mississippi River and Wisconsin shoreline bluffs.
Photo courtesy City of Red Wing, Minn.

Mississippi River views, blufftop prairies, country creeks and more await day hikers in the Red Wing, Minn., area.

Nearly 20 day hiking trails can be found in the city, located about an hour’s drive southeast of the Minneapolis-St. Paul metro area. They range from under a quarter mile in length to nearly 20 miles.

Based on location, the trails generally can be grouped into five areas: Barn Bluff; Cannon Valley; Coon Hill; Hay Creek; and Memorial Park.

Barn Bluff
The prominent bluff rises 30 stories above downtown Red Wing along the Mississippi River. It contains five trails:
• Carlson Lime Kiln Trail – The 0.22-miles round trip hike heads to historic kiln ruins. Park in the lot along Fifth Street northeast of U.S. Hwy. 61.
• Midland Trail – The 0.28-miles one-way trail links the South Trail to the North Trail on the bluff’s forested south side. Park along Fifth Street near the South Trail trailhead.
• North Trail – The 1-mile one-way trail runs along the bluff’s east and north sides on its way to an overview of the Mississippi River and to the bluff’s summit. Park along Fifth Street near the South Trail trailhead.
• Prairie Trail – The 0.55-mile one-way trail sits at Barn Bluff’s summit, heading across a blufftop prairie between two scenic overlooks. The shortest way to reach the trail is from the South Trail.
• South Trail – The 0.54-miles one-way trail rambles alongside the bluff’s south side to near the bluff’s top, where it connects with the Prairie Trail. Park along Fifth Street near the South Trail trailhead.

Cannon Valley
At one time, railroads connected small towns across America, usually running right next to rivers as that was the flattest route. The Cannon River spills into the Mississippi River north of Red Wing. The railline since has been converted to a bicycle/hiking path:
• Cannon Valley Trail – The paved trail runs 19.7 miles, most of the way alongside the Cannon River, on a former Chicago Great Western Railroad line, connecting Red Wing to Welch and Cannon Falls. Parking lots to access the trail in Red Wing are available at the Old West Main and Bench streets junction or at Lower A.P. Anderson Park.

Coon Hill
Several trails can be found on this wooded hill, which is mostly located in the wooded Billings-Tomfohr Conservation Area (Part of the hill is owned by the Red Wing school district.). Trails there include:
• Coon Hill Loop – The trail loops about the top of Coon Hill for 0.4 miles with a couple of spur trails to scenic overlooks. The best way to reach it is via the Neal Street Trail for a 0.8-mile round trip hike.
• East Loop – The 0.5-miles trail links the Sumac and the Twin Bluff trails; park at the trailhead off of Sumac Drive or at the middle school during non-school hours. The hike runs about 1.2-miles round trip if taken from the Sumac Trail and 1-mile round trip if from the Twin Bluff Trail.
• Neal Street Trail – The 0.2-mile one-way trail heads almost to the top of Coon Hill where it links with the West Loop and the Coon Hill Loop. A parking lot is at the end of Neal Street.
• Sumac Trail – The trail goes 0.35-miles one-way, heading uphill to the East Loop and ending at Coon Hill Loop. Park at the lot at the end of Sumac Drive.
• Twin Bluff Trail – The steep 0.25-mile trail ascends the hill behind Twin Bluff Middle School and connects with the East Loop. Park at middle school during non-school hours.
• West Loop – A 0.6-mile loop is on west side of Coon Hill, near its highest point. The best way to reach it is via Neal Street Trail for a 1-mile round trip.

Hay Creek
One usually doesn’t expect to find a pretty little creek running through a city, at least not one that feels like you’re ambling down a rural road. One trail follows the creek on the city’s south side:
• The Goodhue-Pioneer State Trail – Formerly known as the Hay Creek Trail, the state trail runs from near the intersection of Pioneer and Hay Creek Valley roads for about 3-miles one way to the Hay Creek Unit of the Richard J. Dorer Memorial Hardwood State Forest. A number of other trials can be found in the state forest.

Memorial Park
Several interconnected trails run throughout the park that sits on Sorin’s Bluff east of downtown, offering great views of the Mississippi River and of the city:
• Bush Street Trail – Take Skyline Drive to the parking lot at the disc golf course and walk the trail to Bush Street. It runs 0.2-miles one-way.
• Cow Path Trail – The inclined nature trail at 0.75-miles round trip passes a historic pump. Take Skyline Drive to the parking area at Upper Quarry and then walk to Bluff Street.
• Lower Quarry Trail – Park in lot at end of Skyline Drive in the Lower Quarry then walk it to Seventh Street East. The trail goes about 0.5-miles one-way.
• Main Trail – This route consists of several stacked loops that over four-miles heads through three prairie areas and to Lower Quarry. Park at the golf clubhouse off of Golf Links Drive.
• Wilkinson Street Trail – The 0.3-mile one-way trail starts at the end of Wilkinson Street north of Hwy. 61 and connects to the Main Trail at Prairie area 2. Park along Wilkinson Street.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Hike to skyscraper view of Mississippi River

View of west side of Barn Buff from downtown Red Wing,
courtesy www.red-wing.org.

Map of Barn Bluff trails, courtesy City of Red Wing.

Barn Bluff rises
forty stories
in Minnesota

A 360 degree view of the Mississippi River awaits day hikers on the Barn Bluff Trail in Red Wing, Minn.

The 1.75-mile loop takes you to the top of the ancient bluff that rises 40 stories over the river. A steep trail, it’s best done in summer, autumn or after several dry days in spring.

To reach the trailhead, from U.S. Hwy. 61 in downtown Red Wing, turn southeast onto Plum Street. Next, go left/northeast onto Fifth Street. When the road crosses under Hwy. 61, find a parking spot along the street. The trailhead is on the road’s left/northwest side.

Barn Bluff actually consists of four trails – the South, the Midland, the North and the Prairie. The route here is a combination of three of those trails.

Half-billion year-old rock
From the trailhead, head north on a staircase. At the top is an interpretive rest area, where you go right/north onto the North Trail. The trail heads through a forest of oak and maple.

The bluff has long impressed those who’ve seen it. According to Dakota legend, when two tribes fought to control the bluff, the Great Spirit split it in half, so both of his peoples could have it. The other half, legend says, is the famous Sugar Loaf rock formation overlooking Winona, Minn., about 60 miles to the south.

In just under 0.1 miles the trail passes a stone arch with a tunnel into the bluff. Though entering it may be tempting, for safety reasons don’t go beyond the arch. At this point, you are about seven stories above the Mississippi River.

The trail soon passes the Midland Trail junction. Continue north. This heads by a popular rock climbing area.

Sandstone making up the bluff begin piling up about 540 million years ago. It continued to grow for another hundred million years. During the last ice age when the Mississippi River, swollen with glacial meltwater, ran hundreds of feet higher than it now does, Barn Bluff would have been an island in the cold river.

West Outlook and summit
After the rock climbing area, the trail begins to gain some real elevation. As the trail finally curves west, it is just below the East Overlook.

Barn Bluff got its name from the French, who claimed this area during the 1600s through the early 1700s. They named it “La Grange,” which translated to English as “The Barn.”

The trail next curves gently around the bluff’s north side through a wooded area. A natural rock wall runs the length of this segment. These are the base of the rocks that cap the bluff, slowing its erosion and allowing it to remain high on the horizon.

As the trail curves south, it traverses the bluff’s western side. A staircase of 200-plus steps switchbacks up to the West Outlook, which offers commanding views. Immediately below the overlook is the Eisenhower Bridge that connects Minnesota to Wisconsin over the Mississippi River. The city of Red Wing stretches to the north and the river’s back channels, which are part of Wisconsin, along the entire eastern horizon.

From the overlook, the trail ascends about 30 feet to the bluff’s grassy summit, a long plateau with even better views. From there, the trail loops back to east. This is the beginning of the Prairie Trail segment of the hike.

Red Wing Fault
Upon reaching the South Trail junction, go right/southeast onto it. The trail then begins a gradual descent down the bluff’s south side.

Along the way, a staircase heads directly south. This takes you down about 50 feet over 54 steps. The trail then runs east, passing a secluded campfire area.

At the Midland Trail junction, go right/east, staying on the South Trail. This stretch parallels Hwy. 61.

The rock on this side of the bluff belongs to the Franconia Formation, which formed 540 million years ago. On the north side of the bluff, this formation sits below the Mississippi River. An ancient fault line, known as the Red Wing Fault, raised the Franconia Formation on the south side about 150 feet higher than that north of the fault.

Upon reaching the staircase at the trailhead, go right/southeast back to street where you parked.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Trail runs along top, base of Lake Pepin bluff

Yan Teopa Rock, a natural limestone arch in Minnesota, courtesy Wikipedia.

Map, Bluff Side Trail, courtesy Minnesota DNR.

Trail passes rare
Yan Teopa Rock
in Minnesota

Hikers can traverse the top and the base of a bluff looming 430 feet above Lake Pepin at Minnesota’s Frontenac State Park.

The 2.6-mile Bluff Side Loop Trail offers impressive views as it heads up and down the steep bluff with a series of wooden stairs and switchbacks. Fall is a particularly good time to visit with the bird migration through the area at its peak and the leaves resplendent in an array of harvest colors.

To reach the trailhead, from Red Wing, take U.S. Hwys. 61/63 south. At Frontenac Station, turn left/north onto County Road 2. Once past the park entrance, go left/northwest on County Road 28. Follow the road to its end, where it loops back upon itself and forms a parking lot. Leave your vehicle there. Pick up the trail at the lot’s southeast corner.

Ancient limestone
On the trail, go north, following it alongside the parking lot. You’re atop Gerrard's Bluff (sometimes referred to as Point-No-Point) overlooking Lake Pepin. A couple of picnic spots along the way offer vistas of the lake below with the visible Wisconsin shoreline about two miles away.

After passing the parking lot, the trail splits. Go right/north. This heads to an overlook. The town across the way is Maiden Rock, Wis.

In 0.4 miles, the trail reaches a junction. Go right/north to stay near the cliff edge.

The bluff is made of limestone laid down about 500 million years ago as organic sediment settled at the bottom of a shallow sea. Even after eons of erosion, the bluff stretches three miles long.

After another 0.3 miles of walking, the trail reaches another junction. Continue straight/west so you remain close to the cliff edge.

Yan Teopa Rock
During the last ice age, Glacial River Warren drained Glacial Lake Agassiz, carving out what is now the Minnesota and the Mississippi river valleys. During peak flows, Gerrard's Bluff was an island in the Mississippi River.

In 0.2 miles, the trail reaches two more overlooks. These are good spots during autumn for birdwatching. An impressive 260 bird species have been seen in Frontenac State Park, as they are attracted to the locally diverse habitats of prairie, floodplain forest, hardwood forests and bluffland. Keep an eye out for both bald and golden eagles, hawks, various waterfowl including ruddy turnstones and sanderlings.

The trail passes a couple of access trails leading to the campground during the next 0.2 miles. Upon coming to the T-intersection, go right/south.

In short order, you’ll come to Yan Teopa Rock. From a wooden overlook, you can look down upon a the natural limestone arch, a rare sight in the Midwest. The formation’s name comes from what Dakota called it and aptly means “rock with opening.”

Lake Pepin shore
Next, switchbacks run for about 0.2 miles as the trail heads down the bluffside to the lakeshore. Along the way, watch how the trees change with the elevation. The top of the bluff is a mix of aspen, basswood, elm, maple and oak. Cottonwood, maple and willow dominate the bluff’s bottom.

Over the next mile, the trail runs along the lakeshore with Gerrard's Bluff above you. Warblers are abundant here.

A few access trails lead right up to the water and its stony shore. Lake Pepin, at 22 miles long at a slightly more than a couple of miles wide, is the largest broadening of the Mississippi River on its entire course. Sediment from the Chippewa River south of near Pepin, Wis., creates a dam the backs up the Mississippi to form the lake.

When the trail curves south, it begins climbing bluff again over 0.2 miles. Near the top, the trail splits; go right/north. Just below the bluff top is an overlook.

Once cresting the bluff top, you’ll arrive at another trail that is your start point at the parking lot.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Midwest trail leads to lake allegedly inhabited by sea monster

Sand Point at Frontenac State Park, Minn.
Photo courtesy of Minnesota DNR

Sand Point Trail extends
into Lake Pepin at state park

Day hikers at Minnesota’s Frontenac State Park can take in a great view of Lake Pepin – and maybe glimpse a sea monster while doing so.

Reports of Pepie – as the monster locally has come to be known – date to before pioneer times and have occurred as recently as a couple of years ago. The 1.4-mile round trip Sand Point Trail leads to the lake’s shore while heading through a swampy area perfect for creatures of the deep to hide.

To reach the trailhead, from Red Wing, Minn., take U.S. Hwys. 61 and 63 south. Continue through Frontenac Station, not turning onto County Road 2 for the park’s main entrance. As the main highway curves south, stop at the historical marker on the left/north side of the road; use the parking lot there.

‘Size of an elephant’
The trail begins on the lot’s north side and heads northeast as crossing County Road 2. A thick, low-lying woods sits between the road and Lake Pepin, a widening in the Mississippi River.

Before pioneers settled this region, local Dakota Indians refused to take birch-bark canoes onto the lake saying that creatures living in the waters would puncture their thin-skinned boats.

Most of the settlers dismissed the Indian stories as superstition. Then, the evening of April 24, 1871, two local residents spotted the monster. “It was the size of an elephant and rhinoceros, and moved through the water with great rapidity,” the Wabasha (Minn.) County Sentinel reported two days later.

Through the years, other sightings followed, primarily by fishermen. Most recently, beachgoers in Lake City, Minn., spotted a large creature swimming in the lake around 10 a.m. on July 9, 2008. Witnesses said the creature was between 30-40 feet long and swam upstream against the current.

Loch Ness connection
A 2007 expedition to the lake failed to find anything, however. Skeptics dismiss Pepie as a large game fish, giant log, optical illusion, or a hoax.

But those with a more open mind say the creature might be a descendant of a plesiosaurus, to which it bears a remarkable resemblance. The same theory is used to explain the Loch Ness monster – whose home, Loch Ness, is almost identical and size and geography to Lake Pepin.

The trail’s endpoint is Sand Point – aka Point Au Sable – a sand spit that extends into and overlooks Lake Pepin. Across the lake is the Wisconsin shoreline and river bluffs with Maiden Rock to the north and Stockholm to the south.

As the trail heads past wetlands, be sure to don and carry bug spray during spring and summer. And bring binoculars, just in case Pepie shows up.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.