Where to see wildlife at Indiana Dunes park

A beaver on a pond off the Paul H. Douglas Trail. NPS photo.

Despite sitting in a built-up area at the edge of the nation’s third largest urban area, there’s plenty of wildlife to be seen at Indiana Dunes National Park.

Two trails that particularly stand out for spotting wildlife are:
• Paul H. Douglas Trail – The 3.2-miles trail (formerly the Miller Woods Trail) passes a wetlands, oak savanna, towering sand dunes, and ends at a Lake Michigan beach. Among the animals that can be seen along the trail are beaver, cottontail rabbit, coyote, eastern mole, fox squirrel, gray squirrel, long-tailed weasel, masked shrew, meadow vole, muskrat, prairie deer mouse, raccoon, red squirrel, short-tailed shrew, thirteen-lined ground squirrel, Virginia opossum, white-footed mouse, and white-tailed deer. Park at the Douglas Center for Environmental Education off of North Lake Street north of U.S. Hwy. 12.
• Tolleston Dunes Trail – Another good trail to catch them is this 2.6-mile route, which traverses a variety of ecosystems, including rolling sand dunes formed 4700 years ago when Lake Michigan’s water level was about 25 feet higher and so reached this far inland. Among the wildlife here are cottontail rabbits, garter snakes, opossums, raccoons, red fox, squirrels and white-tailed deer. Look to the sky, and you’re likely to see great blue herons, hawks, mallards, turkey vultures, and a range of songbirds. The trail starts at the parking lot off of Hwy. 12 just west of Hillcrest Road neat Ogden Dunes.
• Also see blog entries on Indiana Dunes’ birding trails.

Spot Indiana Dunes wildlife on Tolleston trail

Butterflies alight themselves on plants along the Tolleston Dunes Trail (NPS).

Despite being smack dab in the middle of an urbanized area, there’s plenty of wildlife to be seen at Indiana Dunes National Park. One good spot to catch them is the Tolleston Dunes Trail, which traverses a variety of ecosystems.

Map of Tolleston Dunes Trail and overlook boardwalk.

The 2.6-mile trail consists of a stem leading to two stacked loops. Though sporting a 127 feet gain in elevation, on average the grade is only 2 percent with a maximum grade of 9 percent.

To reach the trailhead, from Chicago head east on U.S. Hwy. 12 and from Portage, Ind., head north to that highway. Look for the entry road to the trail’s parking lot about 0.15 miles west of Hillcrest Road, near Ogden Dunes. The lot sits on a former sand mining operation with the trail leaving from the southwest corner.

In 0.3 miles, the trail reaches rolling sand dunes. They were formed 4700 years ago when Lake Michigan’s water level was about 25 feet higher and so reached this far inland.

Quite a variety of animals make Indiana Dunes National Park their home, and many can be found at Tolleston Dunes. Among them are cottontail rabbits, garter snakes, opossums, raccoons, red fox, squirrels and white-tailed deer. Look to the sky, and you’re likely to see great blue herons, hawks, mallards, turkey vultures, and a range of songbirds.

More than 500 species
You’ll reach the first loop at 0.4 miles from the trailhead. Go right/northwest. You’ll enter an oak savannah on the higher ground punctuated with wetlands at the low points. A boardwalk crosses one section of the wetlands.

In all, 41 different species of mammals, 352 birds species, 23 reptiles, and 18 species of amphibians can be found in the park. In the rivers and Lake Michigan, 71 kinds of fish make their home.

Some of the park animals are quite rare. Among those that are federally threatened and endangered are the Indiana bat, the Eastern massasauga rattlesnake, the Rufa Red knot, and the Piping plover.

At 0.8 miles in, you’ll reach the junction with the second loop. Go right/southwest onto the new loop.

Before Euro-Americans farmed and the urbanized the area, a greater variety of wildlife could be found in the area. Elk, black bears and cougars all disappeared before the Civil War, while the gray wolf, river otter and porcupine vanished before World War I began.

Wildlife signs
After 1.8 miles from the trailhead, you’ll reach the first loop. Go right/southeast onto it.

If you don’t spot wildlife other than birds on the trail, they’re probably just laying low. Most animals are active at dawn and dusk. Watch for their tracks, though, especially in sandy areas, which will let you know that one has nearby probably during the past day or so.

You’ll reach the stem trail at 2.2 miles. Go right/northeast onto it and retrace your steps back to the parking lot.

If looking for a shorter version of the hike, skip the second loop and take the cut-off trail. This axes a mile off the hike for a 1.8-mile walk.

Tolleston Overlook 
A quarter mile east of the parking lot entry road is a short boardwalk that heads to two overlooks. The elevated platforms give a great view of the wetlands and a dune ridge that the Tolleston Dune Trail winds through. In addition to being wheelchair accessible, shaded picnic tables can be found at the overlooks.

Hike offers chance to see Arizona wildlife

Black-tailed jackrabbits are a common sight at Petrified Forest
National Park.

Day hikers can look for desert fauna amid badlands and petrified logs on the Old Jasper Forest Road at Petrified Forest National Park.

The 3-mile round trip follows

the remains of an old park road that was popular when built in the 1930s. Early morning and dusk are the best times to spot wildlife and offer the added bonus of more dramatic lighting on the buttes and crystals. Limit hikes to September through May, as the summer heat can

be unbearable and even dangerous.

To reach the trailhead, from Interstate 40, exit north onto Park Road and enter the park. After passing through the entrance station, continue along the road, heading past several overlooks. Drive under the freeway. Turn right/west onto the road for the Jasper Forest Overlook.

The trail leads from the parking lot’s northeast corner along the rim overlooking the Jasper Forest.

First Forest
A badlands area with plenty of petrified wood, Jasper Forest originally was called the “First Forest” because it was the first spot where railroad travelers encountered petrified logs during the early 1900s. Famous naturalist John Muir was among those travelers, visiting the Jasper Forest in 1905.

At 0.5 miles when the trail runs close to Petrified Forest Road, it turns northwest into a wash. You can follow this route to descend into the Jasper Forest. If rain has recently fallen or is forecast, you’ll want to turn around here otherwise your boots will be mired in mud should you continue.

If the typical dry desert day, however, keep going.

There are a number of washes that branch off the main one. Unless you’re good at outdoors navigation and have a topo map as well as a compass, stay in the main wash rather than explore the side tributaries. The accompanying topo map, though, shows one excellent side trip you can make to the north of the main wash.

Jackrabbits and rare lizards
A variety of mammals can be found in the national park, including pronghorns, bobcats, fox, and prairie dogs. Most of those creatures hang out in the park’s shortgrass prairies.

One mammal you’re likely to see on the hike is the black-tailed jackrabbit. Larger in size than a typical rabbit, they sport black-tipped ears and tail. The blood vessels in the jackrabbit’s long ears act like a heat exchanger so it can stay cool in the desert. Jackrabbits prefer open areas, and when a predator approaches can dash away at 35 mph; when running, they often take zigzag routes and long leaps to keep the predator at bay.

Wherever there are jackrabbits, there probably are coyotes. Canis latrans eat a variety of small mammals and can reach speeds of up to 40 mph when chasing jackrabbits. Even if you never see a coyote on the hike, you might spy their pawprints in the sand and at dusk often will hear their yelps in the distance.

Sixteen kinds of reptiles – including gopher snakes, bullsnakes, and western rattlesnakes – reside in the park. You’re unlikely to see any snakes during the day on this trail, though. There will be plenty of harmless lizards, though.

One lizard to keep an eye out out for is the plateau striped whiptail, a species that consists entirely of females. It prefer grasslands and developed areas, so you’re more likely to see it when you start the hike then once you get into the wash. The lizard’s name tells all you need to know to identify it – it’s striped, and its long tail is whip-like.

Another one to watch for is the side-blotched lizard. They’re rarely seen but live in rocky area; you’re best bet to spotting them is in the wash. Usually they top out at about six inches in length with the male larger than the female and boasting a brightly colored throat.

Golden eagles and ravens
The reptiles’ distant relative – birds – are far more abundant in the park. A full 216 species of birds have been identified in Petrified Forest, though a number of them are only stopping over for a few months (or even days), during the spring and fall migrations.

One bird you’ll see year around is the common raven. Entirely black, they average about 25 inches in length but weigh a mere 2.6 pounds. They’re not picky eaters. Berries, carrion, cereal grains, fruit, insects, nesting birds, small animals, and food waste all make up a part of their diet. Because of the latter, they’re easy to spot near the trail’s parking lot and just about any other place people go.

The largest bird in the park is the golden eagle. Its wingspan can stretch up to almost 7 feet. Agile and fast, golden eagles hunt a variety of small mammals, including rabbits and ground squirrels, ensnaring them with sharp talons. Watch the high cliffs for possible nesting sites and keep an eye on the sky to see them soaring overhead, as they look for their next meal.

A good place to turnaround on the hike is at 1.5 miles when you meet an old jeep trail that runs northeast-southwest in a straight line.

Do not approach, feed, or harass any wildlife you might see. There’s no shade at all on the trail, so be sure to don sunscreen, sunglasses and a hat. Leashed dogs are allowed.

TOPO MAP

At the first split, go left/west. The route north is for those who want to go
into the backcountry and have advanced navigation skills. Click for larger version.

Ice Age Trail segment heads past hemlocks

The Ice Age Trail passes Jerry Lake near Medford, Wis.

Ice Age Trail - Jerry Lake segment topo map.
Click map for larger version.

Day hikers walk through hemlock groves on the Jerry Lake segment of Wisconsin’s Ice Age National Scenic Trail.

The 6-miles round trip segment from Jerry Lake to the South Fork of the Yellow River sits in the Chequamegon National Forest. The Ice Age Trail marks the edge of the glacial advance when ice sheets were last in these parts, about 8000 BCE. The trail stretches more than 1100 miles long across the state and largely cuts northeast-southwest through Taylor County.

To reach the trailhead, from Medford take Wis. Hwy. 13 north. Turn left/west onto County Road M then right/north onto Sailor Creek Road/Forest Road 571. A small parking lot is in 0.7 miles.

Take the Ice Age Trail north. Going south takes you to Lake Eleven, which is about five miles away.

In short order, you’ll arrive at picturesque Jerry Lake. The 26-acre lake reaches a depth of 30 feet. Largemouth bass, northern pike, and panfish all thrive there.

At 0.1 miles, the trail junctions a connector that goes southeast to FR 571. Continue straight/north along Jerry Lake’s eastern shore.

Hemlocks
The trail passes a campsite with pit toilet and a steel fire grate on the northeastern shore of Jerry Lake at 0.2 miles. Two other primitive/rustic campsites are ahead at the South Fork of the Yellow River and at Sailor Creek, though the latter is a bit buggy, as it’s near a bog.

A marsh next appears. This used to be part of the lake, which is receding.

The trail continues into a hardwood forest and a young hemlock grove. preferring moist but well-drained soil, the hemlock looks a lot like a child’s drawing of a Christmas tree. It can grow up to 7 stories high and reach 35 feet in width.

At 1.6 miles, the trail crosses Hay Meadow Road/Forest Road 572, which heads west to Forest Road 112 and east to Forest Road 571. Continue straight/north.

Overlook
Next the trails descend a low ridge with a hemlock grove. The trail then passes through a good mix of tall pines and deciduous trees with a fair amount of birch. Be sure to look up - sometimes porcupines climb trees and are hiding in plain sight right above you on a birch trunk.

As the trail picks up elevation, you’ll reach an overlook that provides a great panorama of the forest.

The trail then descends toward the South Fork of the Yellow River, which appears at 3 miles in. A 67-foot heavy timber bridge spans the wide waterway. Bald eagles fly overhead, and otters swim about in the shallow waters. The river is a good spot to refill your canteen, but always be sure to filter it first.

It also marks a good spot to turn back for a 6-mile round trip hike.

Continuing on
If have some more energy, you can continue north. You’ll first pass the aforementioned primitive campsite, which sits on the ridge overlooking the river.

Next the route crosses Forest Road 576 twice, as both the trail and the road curve away and then toward one another.

At 5.6 miles, a small bridge crosses Sailor Creek, a clear, running stream. You can turn back here for a 11.2-miles round trip hike or you can camp here for the night. The camp is situated in a hemlock grove with a stone fire ring.

The trail can get quite muddy in spots after a thunderstorm, so be sure to wait a couple of days for the ground to dry out before attempting a hike.

IAT segment offers chance to see cranes

The Ice Age Trail runs through a vast forest in northcentral Wisconsin.

Ice Age National Scenic Trail - Chippewa Lobe segment
topo map. Click map for larger version.

Hikers can see sandhill cranes and orchids on the Chippewa Lobe segment of Wisconsin’s Ice Age National Scenic Trail.

The 7.8-miles round trip segment from Mondeaux Avenue to Forest Road 108 sits in the Chequamegon National Forest. The Ice Age Trail marks the edge of the glacial advance when ice sheets were last in these parts, about 8000 BCE. The trail stretches more than 1100 miles long across the state and largely cuts northeast-southwest through Taylor County.

To reach the segment’s trailhead, from Medford take Wis. Hwy. 13 north. Turn left/west onto county Road M then right/north onto County Road E/Mondeaux Drive/Forest Road 107. Next, go left/west onto the gravel Mondeaux Drive/Forest Road 102. After crossing the North Fork Yellow River, watch for a small parking area. The trailhead is just west of it.

Hardwood forest
A dirt trail heads west into the wilderness. At 0.5 miles is a small pond. Past the waterbody, the path enters a hardwood forest.

One end of the Chippewa Lobe Loop Trail, a side trail south of the main route, appears at 1.4 miles. Continue straight-right/southwest

This takes you through a stretch of birch and pine.

At 1.9 miles, the IAT crosses the White Birch Trail, a grassy spur trail that goes north to Forest Road 102 and south to the Chippewa Lobe Trail. Continue straight/west

Next the trail heads through an open hardwood forest. Be aware that in spring after a winter of heavy snowfall or following a lot of rain, the trail here can be underwater.

Sandhill cranes
At 3.1 miles is the other end of Chippewa Lobe Loop side trail. If looking for a campsite, there’s a nice primitive one about 0.1 miles south on the loop. It sits on high, dry ground, offers a benches and a stone fire ring, and there’s a short spur leading to a small bog lake where you can get water. Presuming you’re not staying overnight, continue straight-right/southwest.

A wetland appears on the south side of the trail. Keep an eye out for sandhill cranes in the marshes during migration seasons and look for an impressive display of orchids in the wetlands’ northwest corner each June.

Sandhill cranes are easy to pick out when they stop over on their migration. Tall and graceful, the slate gray bird has a long neck, legs and wingspan. Their wings can stretch up to 2.2 yards across from tip to tip.

The IAT next crosses Lake 19 Road/Forest Road 108 at 3.9 miles. FR 108 goes north to FR 102 while south heads to Lake Nineteen. This is a good spot to turn back.

A few more miles
If you have some extra energy, continue straight/southwest. The trail zigzags north then northwest, rising into an upland forest and heads through a birch stand. A boardwalk along the way crosses a small, unnamed stream.

Look for a large boulder. Next to it is the entry to a primitive campsite that sits under a hemlock canopy.

From there, the trail ascends to the top of Hemlock Esker and stays on it for about a mile. The esker rises about 80 feet above the surrounding forest. This is part of Lost Lake Esker State Natural Area. A bench and signature register is at the ridge’s highest point.

Past that, the trail drops off the esker and turns southwest.

At 6.9 miles, the trail crosses Forest Road 571. North goes to Forest Road 111 and south to Jerry Lake. The forest road marks a good place to turn around for a 13.8-mile round trip.

5 Great Day Hikes to See Wildlife

Bison on Yellowstone National Park's Lamar Valley

Big Fork Ridge Trail
Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Day hikers can see a rare herd of elk on the Big Fork Ridge Trail in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The 3.6-miles round trip segment of this popular trail sits in the Cataloochee Valley of the park’s North Carolina section. Early morning and dusk during autumn marks the best time to catch the elk and their antics. 

Everglades National Parks Wildlife
Day hikers can spot a variety of exotic animals at Everglades National Park. Located in the only section of the United States mainland that is considered subtropical, the national park is home to panthers, crocodiles, manatees, alligators, great blue herons, egrets and a variety of migratory birds. Two great hikes to safely see such wildlife are the Bobcat Boardwalk and the Anhinga Trail.

Buckhorn Trail
Theodore Roosevelt National Park
Families can day hike to a large prairie dog town via the Buckhorn Trail in Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Though little visited, the western North Dakota park offers several great trails featuring fascinating geological formations and fantastic wildlife viewing opportunities. Of the latter, the prairie dog town – a 2-mile round trip – is the highlight of many travelers with children.

Chapin Creek Trail
Rocky Mountain National Park
A great hike to take in Rocky Mountain National Park is the Chapin Creek Trail, which offers opportunities to see moose and elk on a primitive path. It can be hiked about 1.6-miles round trip to the creek crossing or 6.6-miles round trip on a mostly backcountry route to the Poudre Trail. http://hikeswithtykes.blogspot.com/2016/06/see-moose-elk-on-rmsp-backcountry-trail.html

Lamar Valley Trail
Yellowstone National Park
Day hikers can explore the “Serengeti of North America” on the Lamar Valley Trail at Yellowstone National Park. Like the mountain-ringed African plain, Yellowstone’s Lamar Valley serves as home to the classic megafauna that define North America. Bison, elk, grizzlies, black bears, wolves, coyotes, eagles, osprey and more all can be found there.

BONUS: Animal attacks on hikes a statistical oddity
Injuries from animals are rare but do occur on hikes. Here's how to avoid becoming one of those statistical oddities.

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks series.

Spot Saguaro National Park wildlife on trail

A desert tortoise finds juicy fruit on the Douglas Spring Trail.

Day hikers can spot desert wildlife on the Douglas Spring Trail in Arizona’s Saguaro National Park.

A good adventure on the trail is a 4.6-mile round trip hike to Three Tanks Trail in the park’s Rincon Mountains (East) section. You can go up to 16.6 miles one-way on the Douglas Springs Trail, however, for a backcountry hike. The trail is best done in October through April; it can be hiked in other months but will be hot much of the way, and in the desert heat, few animals beyond lizards will be out and about.

To reach the trailhead, from Interstate 10 in Tucson take East Speedway Boulevard east. Outside of town, the road dead ends at the trailhead. As the trail is easy to access, the parking lot fills up fast, so you may need to park on the road’s wide shoulder as it approaches the trailhead. Though there’s no fee station, be sure to have your park pass, as rangers regularly patrol the area.

A picnic ramada sits near the trailhead. You’re at an elevation of 2,750 feet.

The trail heads east through mesquite trees that sport some large saguaro. Scotts Knob rises to north, topping out at 2923 feet.

Perfect environment for wildlife
The path junctions the Garwood Trail at 0.3 miles. Continue straight-left/east. In spring or after a rainfall, this area is a good spot for wildflowers with desert senna dominating.

Next the trail crosses fairly open desert then a sandy wash. While wildlife can be found throughout the national park, the Douglas Spring Trail has the advantage of several seasonal streams crossing it. The waterways along with the residual pools they leave behind, attract a variety of animals, making it ideal for spotting wildlife.

A changing landscape helps as well. The trial features slopes, ravines and flat stretches all as gaining elevation. This creates a number of niche environments for different animals.

The Converse Trail junctions from the right at 0.5 miles; continue straight-left/east. The Converse briefly runs with the Douglas Spring Trail that splits to the left/north.

Next the trail gains elevation; wood and stone steps help make traversing it easy. An overlook of a rocky canyon with an intermittent stream and leftover pools in it marks a good spot to spy wildlife.

Roadrunners and coyotes
Look for quail, roadrunner, jackrabbits, coyotes, mule deer and javelina at lower elevations.

The best time to spot the Gambel’s quail is early morning or late afternoon when the temperature is cool. The quail is easy to identify thanks to its black, comma-shaped topknot rising out of its forehead. The desert bird can grow up to 10 inches long and dines on seeds, insects and fruit of available.

Roadrunners, the iconic bird of the American Southwest, can be seen as well. They rarely fly but are fast runners, hitting speeds of 15 mph as they use their tail as a rudder. Adults can stretch up to 23 inches in length with almost as wide of a wingspan. A predator, they eat lizards, small birds, small mammals, and snakes, but also will gobble down fruit and seeds if available.

About 40 medium and large mammals can be found in the park, with more of them in the Rincon Mountain (East) district than the Tucson Mountain (West) area.

Black-tailed jackrabbits are fairly common in both sections of the national park. Larger in size than a typical rabbit, they sport black-tipped ears and tail. They prefer open areas, and when a predator approaches can dash away at 35 mph. The antelope jackrabbit, which is larger than the black-tailed, is rare in the park, but sometimes is spotted in sandy washes.

Coyotes also are common here. They eat a variety of small mammals and can reach speeds of up to 40 mph when chasing jackrabbits. During summer when hunting is more difficult, coyotes will eat saguaro and prickly pear cactus fruit. Even if you never see a coyote, you probably will hear their yelps in the distance and notice their pawprints in the sand.

Javelina and scorpions
Mule deer sport large ears and usually can be seen in the park’s open areas. They generally stick to elevations below 4,500 feet, where they browse woody plants and shrubs, though after seasonal rains they enjoy broad-leaved weeds. Their numbers appear to be declining in the park, largely because of limited habitat range due to urban sprawl and thickening park vegetation, leaving less open space, which they prefer to better spot and run from predators.

Though looking like pigs, javelina – or peccaries – aren’t. Traveling in herds as large as 20 and led by an experienced, older female, they can weigh up to 65 pounds and be 40 inches long. They’re quite common in the park and can be found digging for roots, tubers or foraging for agave, cactus fruit, seeds, mesquite beans, prickly pear pads, and occasionally even carrion.

Several species of scorpions live in the park. Their lineage goes back some 425 million years. Some secrete a wax to protect themselves from the harsh sun and have chemicals beneath their exoskeleton that glow under ultraviolet light.

From the overlook, the trail ascends to a somewhat flat basin then upon reaching a small saddle junctions with the Carrillo Trail at 1.1 miles. You’re at 3120 feet elevation. In 2019, Africanized bees built a hive near the trail here; they are dangerous, so if you see any signs warning that the bees have returned, heed it and turn back.

If there are no bees, continue onward. Ocotillo becomes more dominant and the number of saguaro fewer.

Reptiles
There’s no shortage of reptiles on the trail (or elsewhere in the park for that matter). Saguaro National Park boasts 36 species of reptiles, most notably coral snakes, desert tortoises, diamondback rattlesnakes, Gila monsters, short-horned lizards, spiny lizards, and zebra-tailed lizards.

Should you spot a snake or a Gila monster, be cautious. Avoid them by watching where you step and not putting your hands or feet under rocks or in dark crevices. If you spot one, slowly back off. Snakes and Gila monsters are just as afraid of you as you are of them, so once you give them space, they’ll likely scamper off. If they don’t, turn back, as passing around them isn’t a good option.

Other wildlife you may spot along the way are bobcats, cougars, desert cottontails, elf owl (the world’s smallest owl and raptor), gray foxes, ground squirrels, Harris’s hawk, the endangered lesser long-nosed bat (which lives part of the year in Mexico), ring-tailed cats, white-nosed coatis, and white-tailed deer.

Next the trail descends into a wash. Seep monkeyflowers and Arizona centaury line the moist canyon walls.

Climbing out of the canyon, the trail crosses the top of a V-shaped valley, offering great views of Tucson’s suburbs in the west.

Urban sprawl
Unfortunately, urban sprawl has harmed the wildlife population here. Not only is the habitat range limited, but sprawl’s various pollutions – air, light, noise and water – all stress animals. Visitors in the park, whether they be from Tucson or from a distance, also affect the wildlife. Traffic alone kills about 50,000 animals a year on the park’s roads.

From the overlook, the trail climbs to slickrock that surrounds a stream. There are more pools and wildflowers here, making it another good area to spot wildlife. Palo verde, sotol and ocotillo cover the hillsides.

At 2.3 miles, the path reaches the Three Tanks Trail. You’re at 3695 feet; here there are very few tall saguaro with mostly creosote, mesquite and scrub oak dominating. The trail junction marks a great spot to turn back.

As the trail climbs to higher elevations and reaches Tanque Verde Ridge, the vegetation increases and the temperature cools, offering habitat for larger wildlife. Mountain lions, brown bear – as well as the lower elevation’s bobcats and white-tailed deer – can be found there.

As there’s no shade on the trail, be sure to don sunscreen, sunglasses and sunhat as well as bring water. In addition, due to easy access from populated areas, vehicle break-ins have been reported at this trailhead. Never leave valuables in your vehicle, and consider having someone drop off and pick you up following a hike.

TOPO MAP

Douglas Spring Trail topo map. Click for larger version.

Six Great National Parks to See Wildlife

Bison can be found on Yellowstone National Park's Lamar Valley Trail.

The following article was written for and originally appeared in the August 2016 Coach.net newsletter:

America’s national parks are known for their great vistas and fantastic rock formations, but they also preserve another treasure: wildlife.

In fact, national parks rank among the best places to see interesting and rare wildlife. Late summer marks a particularly good time for wildlife viewing at many parks as most mothers bring out their young by that time of the year.

Given the breadth of national park locations, there’s also the opportunity to see almost every kind of North American wildlife, from those that live on mountains, in marine environments, and in the tropics to those that make their homes on prairies, deserts, and in temperate forests.

Mountains
Travelers can explore the “Serengeti of North America” on the Lamar Valley Trail at Wyoming’s Yellowstone National Park. Like the mountain-ringed African plain, Lamar Valley serves as home to the classic megafauna that define North America. Bison, elk, grizzlies, black bears, wolves, coyotes, eagles, osprey and more all can be found at this high elevation. Coyotes also can be seen wandering about, looking for a meal while bald eagles and osprey grace the skies. Grizzlies reside in the hilly woods, but they and the area’s other big two predators – black bears and wolf packs – prefer to remain under cover than be seen.

Marine
You can encounter an array of marine wildlife on the Beach Trail at Alaska’s Glacier Bay National Park. Low tide also provides an opportunity to see intertidal life. As the waters retreat into the ocean – and water levels here can fall 25 vertical feet, among the greatest extremes in the world – a number of animals and plants are exposed. Don’t be surprised to spot starfish and snails on the sands and grasses. On shore, a variety of sea birds gather and fly over, often nabbing exposed intertidal creatures for a meal. During those first moments of sunlight, watch for humpback whales, harbor porpoise, puffins, sea otters, and Steller sea lions, frolicking and feeding in the mouth of the bay. Bring binoculars. If lucky, you’ll also hear the blow of humpback whales.

Tropics
Tropical wildlife can be safely seen from the Anhinga Trail at Florida’s Everglades National Park. The trail’s boardwalk takes you over open water where you can watch for alligators peeking out of a river, as well as turtles, herons and egrets. Winter marks the best season to see the most wildlife. A number of birds spend their time in the Everglades after migrating from a northern clime. Among those you can spot are the double breasted cormorant, great egret, great blue heron, snowy egret, tricolored heron, white ibis and woodstork. Turkey vultures congregate in the marsh during the early morning hours.

Prairies
North America’s largest mammal – the bison – freely roams North Dakota’s Theodore Roosevelt National Park, and the Buckhorn Trail is an excellent place to spot them and other Great Plains wildlife. The trail includes a prairie dog town that stretches for about a mile. You’ll be able to spot them barking from their burrow entrances as they keep an eye out for predators. Hawks, coyotes and rattlesnakes are among the creatures hoping to make an unsuspecting prairie dog its dinner.

Deserts
Four desert ecosystems can be found in North America, and the park closest to a major metro area offers among the best spots to see wildlife of these dry climes. Outside of Tucson, Ariz., Saguaro National Park’s Douglas Spring Trail crosses the Rincon Mountain District (Saguaro Park East), providing the chance to see coyotes, roadrunners, jackrabbits and quail. All four of those creatures thrive in the Sonoran Desert, which stretches across Arizona and northern Mexico, as well as good portions of the continent’s other three desert ecosystems.

Temperate forests
Great Smoky Mountains National Park, though stretching across the Appalachian Mountains, offers the opportunity to see many of the animals that reside in temperate forests covering much of the continent east of the Mississippi River. The Deep Creek/Indian Falls trails in the park’s North Carolina section sports Eastern cottontail rabbit, groundhogs, river otter, and white-tailed deer. Also present but much more elusive, as they keep to themselves, are black bear, bobcat, coyote, red fox, red wolf, and wild boar.

Rob Bignell is the author of several hiking guidebooks, including the bestselling Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks.

Learn more about national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks guidebook.

Where to see Rocky Mountain NP wildlife

Bull elk at Rocky Mountain National Park

A wide range of animals reside in Rocky Mountain National Park – but unlike bears or bison at Yosemite or Abert’s squirrels at Grand Canyon – wildlife here is a bit more standoffish. That doesn’t mean they can’t be seen, just that you should be aware of where, when and how to spot them.

Mule deer
Common across the West, mule deer have extremely large ears that resemble those of a mule. Up to three feet high at the shoulder, they weigh between 100-300 pounds. They tend to live in the park’s lower hills and in light forests. About 500 of them gather in Estes Valley each winter.

Moose
The largest animal in the park, they can stand up to seven feet high at the shoulder and weigh 1500 pounds. With only 30-50 moose residing there, they are a rare sight. The best spot to see them is on the park's west side grazing along the Colorado River banks and in the Kawuneeche Valley.

Elk
Bull elks can stand up to five feet tall and weigh 1100 pounds. They make a distinctive bugling sound each autumn to mark the beginning of the breeding season. Typically then can be seen in Moraine Park grazing during summer and the lower meadows during fall. About 300-400 elk winter in the park and another 500-600 winter in Estes Park.

Bighorn sheep
The park’s on and off official symbol, most recently appearing on its centennial logo, a male bighorn can weigh 300 pounds and stand three feet at the shoulder; females are about half this size. Bighorn often can be spotted at Big Thompson Canyon and Sheep-Horseshoe Park between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m.

Black bear
Ranging between 5-6 feet long and weighing between 200-600 pounds, black bears are an impressive sight. Despite their bulk, they easily can outrun a human being. The good news is that they are rarely seen, as they avoid people. Only about 20-24 black bears remain in the park with the few sightings occurring in the backcountry.

Mountain lions
Males stretch up to eight feet long and weigh 200 pounds; they can jump 18 feet high and 40 feet long in a single bound. Rare to see, they are most frequently spotted on park's west side, especially near rocky canyons and meadows. An estimated 20-30 mountain lions live in the park.

Coyotes
About three to four feet long and weighing 20 to 50 pounds, coyotes are much smaller than wolves. With a reputation as survivors, they thrive in a park where concerted efforts at the beginning of the 20th century were made to remove them and wolves; the effort with wolves succeeded. Coyotes usually feed on rodents and deer but have been observed pack hunting bighorn lambs and ewes.

Pika
Small mammals that look like hamsters, pikas actually are more closely related to rabbits. Weighing a mere six ounces, they sit on rock outcroppings and talus slopes near the treeline, especially around Rock Cut on the 0.6 miles round-trip Tundra Communities Trail off of Trail Ridge Road.

Yellow-bellied marmot
This cute member of the squirrel family can weigh 11 pounds and are up to two feet long. They hibernate about 200 days a year. Living in colonies, Rock Cut and the Tundra Communities Trail is a great place to spy them.

Tips for seeing wildlife
You can improve your chances of seeing wildlife at the park by:
• Getting up early – Animals are most active at sunrise from sunrise until 10 a.m. and then at sunset from 4 p.m. until dark.
• Opting for clouds – Cooler, cloudy days are better than sunny days, but if rain or snow is falling, don't expect to see many if any at all.
• Seeking dark spots in the grass – Along with antlers just above the grass, these are two good signs that an animal is there. Be patient and wait for it to rise or see if you can get to higher ground for a better view.
• Refusing to seek the animal’s attention – Yelling, honking or throwing a rock at an animal will cause it to run rather than look your way. To get a better view, bring a binoculars or use the telephoto lens on your camera.

Learn more about the park's day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at Rocky Mountain National Park.

Prevent hungry bears from breaking into your vehicle while family is out on a hike

A bear breaks into a vehicle with improperly stored food at Sequoia National
Park. Photo courtesy of Sequoia NPS.

Leave food in your vehicle when day hiking, and upon returning you may find some windows smashed, doors dented, and seats ripped.

No, the culprit isn’t a hungry teenager looking for snacks. It’s a bear – a creature you don’t want to meet face to face or when it’s stuck in the back seat.

Common in the mountains and forests of the West, bears are growing in population and advancing south through the wooded areas of the Upper Midwest. Though you almost never have to worry about running into a bear on a hike, your vehicle may not be so lucky.

Bears have such a strong sense of smell – about a hundred times more powerful than a dog’s – that they can detect food in your parked vehicle, even if your trail mix and picnic lunch are in containers. With their strength and willpower, bears will have no trouble getting into your vehicle, though they’re a little messy in the way they go about it. In short, food in your vehicle screams “Lunch wagon!” to a bear.

To avoid a bear break-in, follow these basic guidelines:
g Leave the food at home – If you’re not going to carry it in your backpack, then don’t bring it all. Should you consume food along the way, make sure the trash disposed of before you reach the trailhead.
g Use the bear box – Should you still have food at the trailhead, use the bear-proof food locker if one is nearby (Usually they are in areas where bears are known to break into vehicles). Made of steel, bears can’t open these containers.
g Dispense with the coolers – Especially in national and state parks, some bears have learned that food coolers may contain goodies. They’ll then break into a vehicle just to see if their hunch is right (and they usually don’t leave any leftovers if they are).
g Don’t toss food scraps on the trail – Once bears come across human food, they’ll give it a try. They’ll probably like it. That means on future trips that you or other hikers take in the area, bears are more likely to break into vehicles if they smell those same delectables locked inside.

Should you come across a bear who’s taken your food, don’t try to get it back. The bear will fight to keep your loaf of bread and granola bars. And the bear will win.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

What tracks tell us about the animals that made them

A newly made track in the snow typically is larger than the actual foot or paw.
Photo courtesy of holder / Photoree.

With winter’s arrival, day hikers have a great opportunity to teach children accompanying them about the animals that live near the trail. This can be done via the tracks those animals make.

For example, a newly made track in the snow is larger than the actual foot or paw size. Snow compresses and better maintains its shape than sand or mud does, so the track itself actually shows a little of the animal’s movement as it steps. The animal that made the track probably is smaller than the track would lead children to believe.

In addition, the older a track is, the more likely that its size is far different from the actual foot. Thawing and refreezing can enlarge the track while blowing snow can fill it in and decrease the size. If the weather has changed over the past couple of days, children with this knowledge might be able to tell if the animal’s actual foot is smaller or larger than the track.

Further, the track’s depth indicates the animal’s size and weight. The smaller the animal, the less likely it is to sink into the snow when walking or running. Heavier and larger animals, of course, usually sink more deeply.

Whether or not the animal is two- or four-legged also can be determined (Birds, of course, are two-legged). Tracks that match a human’s gait are two-legged. Have your child walk alongside the track and compare how the feet fall into the snow.

Tracks also can give clues about where the animal might live. Follow the tracks around. They may lead to a tree or a burrow hole beneath a bush or near a rock. Especially during winter, you may even be able to spot strands of the animal’s hair or bits of it food.

Learn about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

How to spot wildlife on a day hike: Choose when, where you’ll walk

When spotting wildlife, such as this desert
tortoise at its burrow entry, make sure to
keep your distance.

Patience in search required
but often proves rewarding

The following originally appeared as an article, by Hikes with Tykes author Rob Bignell, at Seattle Backpackers Magazine.

Spotting wildlife certainly marks one of the highlights of any day hike, especially when with children. The graceful leap of a deer into the thicket, the curious habits of a rabbit or squirrel, the noble sweep of an eagle through the skies, all serve to astonish, entertain and teach.

Animals prefer to remain hidden (except for those pesky mosquitos, of course), so seeing them can be difficult. You’ll often have to be patient, even on trails in which wildlife sightings are touted in guidebooks and brochures. Still, there are strategies any hiker can use to improve the odds of seeing wild animals.

First, some trails provide better opportunities than others to spot wildlife. Paths alongside lakes and rivers are particularly good as many animals will come to the waterbody to drink. Trails alongside or through meadows also are excellent, for they offer wide open spaces to spot animals grazing in the distance or flying overhead.

The time of day and year you opt to hit the trail also can increase your chances of seeing wildlife. You can best spot animals if you go hiking during:
g Feeding times – Wildlife typically are more active at dawn and dusk. Knowing the types of plants some animals prefer will help you know when you’re in an area that animals feed.
g Migrations – You’ll be able to sight large numbers and a greater variety of birds passing through an area during spring and autumn. Wetlands and large bodies of water usually draw the most migrating birds.
g Greater Visibility – Green leaves in spring and summer tend to hide animals, but as leaves fall off trees and bushes during autumn, your field of visibility will increase.
g Newborn Presentations – During spring and early summer, mothers often take their slow-moving offspring out to explore the world. Watch for them at the edges of woods.
g Changes in Barometric Pressure – That means before and after a storm. Before a storm, many animals seek better shelter to outlast a shower; watch the skies for raptors that also know this and so go on the hunt at that time. Of course, you also must be careful to avoid lightning strikes and flashfloods.

Should you spot wildlife on a hike, always remember to keep your distance. If closing on them doesn’t scare them off, the animal probably will stand its ground and possibly even attack. In addition, it’s never cute to have a child get close to a wild animal for a picture when the creature bites or mauls them.

Don’t be tempted to feed wild animals either. Besides inviting an aggressive attack on you, it teaches animals that humans are a source of food, meaning some are less likely to hunt or graze on their own but instead become a nuisance and even a threat to people. Such is the case with many national parks bears, who’ve learned to raid dumpsters and tents and even break into vehicles for food.

Also, don’t pick up small wild animals, as their natural inclination is to bite and claw when held. Even if docile, it may bite when you get close. If it is sick and a bite occurs, you could contract a disease.

If there are reports in an area of a dangerous animal, especially one that has attacked people, don’t hike there in hopes of spotting it. While such attacks are rare, there’s no need to invite trouble.

Short of seeing wildlife, the next best thing is to catch signs of them. When passing patches of sand or dirt, watch for animal prints. Other signs of animals include scat, flattened plants where an animal may have rested, feathers, fur on fence posts, burrow holes, and scrapings on tree bark.

Read more about day hiking with children in my Hikes with Tykes guidebooks.

Plenty of good reasons to day hike during winter months

This article originally was written for and appeared in a slightly different form at Seattle Backpackers Magazine.

Day hiking season isn’t over just because temperatures have dropped and snow has fallen. Many days during winter, especially in the southern United States, sport pleasant weather, and even in northern climes sometimes just some warmer clothing is needed.

In fact, winter offers several advantages over summer for day hiking:
g No bugs – Annoying insects like mosquitoes and ticks generally are gone after the first freeze. They won’t be back until a significant portion of the snow melts next spring.
g Smaller crowds – National, state, and county parks generally see lower attendance during winter months. That means you won’t have to jostle for position to see the sights.
g Increased visibility – In fact, you’ll see more on the trail during winter than summer. With green leaves having fallen off vegetation, you’ll have a better chance of seeing wildlife and geological formations.
g Entirely new environment – How a forest or wetlands appears in winter compared to summer is quite different. The animals inhabiting those areas also can change with migrations and hibernation.
g Snow offers options for new activities – You can’t build a snowman or go sledding in summer. But there’s more to do than that: animal tracks often are easier to spot in the snow, and snowshoeing allows you to go a little off trail in the thinner vegetation (not to mention the latter will keep you quite physically fit).

So don’t hang up your hiking gear just because autumn is almost over. Get out and enjoy a day hike this winter!

Read more about day hiking with children in my Hikes with Tykes guidebooks.

‘Hike’ author’s spotting wildlife article in Seattle Backpackers Mag

My article “Spotting Wildlife on a Trail” ran in today’s Seattle Backpackers Magazine. The article gives tips about when are the best times and the best places to see wildlife and includes two pictures from or near the Bjornson Education-Recreation Center in Dunn County, Wisconsin. The article is available online.

Find out about trail guidebooks available in the Hittin’ the Trail series.

Autumn marks perfect time to go day hiking with children

Though summer has passed, that’s no reason to put the hiking boots at the back of the closet until next May. Autumn actually is a great time to hit the trail with kids.

Why? Because there are:
g Cool, dry days – As winter approaches, summer’s heat and humidity dissipates. Late morning through the early afternoon, however, still can see warm, comfortable temperatures that might require a sweatshirt and jeans rather than T-shirt and shorts.
g Fewer bugs – Cool, dry days means few mosquitoes and virtually no other creepy crawlies, as they prefer standing water and warm air. Most insects’ life cycles have reached their end in September.
g Colorful leaves – Perhaps the best reason to hike in autumn is the changing fall foliage. The world appears to have been repainted, as red, gold and sienna orange leaves contrast with the blue sky.
g Better visibility – As those changing leaves fall to the ground, the landscape opens up, allowing you to spot interesting geological features or terrain that summer’s thick foliage keeps hidden.
g More animal sightings – Birds migrate while mammals gorge in preparation for winter’s cold. As the foliage no longer is as thick, seeing them is easier.
g Fewer crowds – Kids are back to school, guys are watching football, and whoever else is left wrongly thinks last night’s frost means the whole day will be cold. That makes for a quiet, peaceful trek on almost any given autumn day.

Read more about day hiking with children in my Hikes with Tykes guidebooks.

Best day hikes for kids in Yellowstone NP

No trip to one of the nation’s iconic national parks would be complete with a day hike. There are several trails that are perfect for families:
g Artist Paint Pot Trail – The 1-mile round trip is like a trip across an alien world, beginning in burned lodgepole pine until reaching a thermal area boasting multicolored hot springs, a number of small geysers and two bubbling mudpots.
g Lone Star Geyser Trail – Older children will enjoy this 5-mile round trip to the backcountry geyser that erupts 45-feet high about every three hours. The show lasts about a half-hour is much less crowded that Old Faithful.
g Mystic Falls Trail – A 70-foot waterfall cascading over a boulder-filled canyon await on this 3-mile-loop that begins in pine forest. Part of the trailheads through a recovering area burned in the 1988 forest fires.
g Porcelain Basin Trail – Milky-colored mineral deposits cover much of this hot spring that boasts sulfur pots and small geysers. The trail to this rapidly evolving area is an easy half-mile walk.
g Slough Creek Trail – Though the first portion of the 2-mile trail can be strenuous, the rewards are great in the wildlife spotted which typically include moose. The Lamar Valley on the road to the trailhead is the best spot in the park to see bison.

Read more about day hiking with children in my Hikes with Tykes guidebooks.

Teach children to practice ‘Leave no Trace’

What are some ways kids can practice “leave no trace”?

They can practice is the same way adults do – and as a parent, you can model “leave no trace” by practicing it yourself. Here’s how:
g Pack out all trash – Candy wrappers, napkins, empty soda cans, dead batteries … well, any garbage you create on the trail … needs to be carried out. Don’t allow children to throw waste on the ground, and don’t do it yourself. Carry small trash bags or plastic re-sealable bags that trash can go into.
g Pick up trash you find along the way – But don’t stop at your own trash. If you see paper or bottles along the trail, put it in the trash bag, so long as it’s safe to pick up.
g Stay on marked trails – Cutting across grassy meadows and switchbacks damages the very environment that you went to the wilds to enjoy. It’s also not very safe to go off the trail with children.
g Leave natural objects alone – Avoid throwing rocks, picking flowers or turning over logs. Of course, with kids this is asking the impossible, and sometimes you want to do these very things to teach children about nature. Do so with discretion, though, and teach older children not to do it.
g Observe wildlife from afar – Don’t take little birds out of their nests or capture frogs. If you spot deer, bears or other animals, keep your distance, if only for your own safety.
g Always construct a fire ring – If forced to build a fire, always do so inside a ring of rocks arranged around the burning branches. This will keep a fire from spreading.

Read more about day hiking with children in my Hikes with Tykes guidebooks.

Ensure family dog knows trail etiquette

For most of us with dogs, Rover and Queenie are family members. So why leave them behind on a day hike with kids? They appreciate and enjoy the run in the wilds just as much as you and your children.

Still, dogs – like children – can misbehave. Just as we should teach our kids to act properly on the trail and model that behavior, so we should teach our dog as well.

Some basic trail etiquette rules for dog include:
g Trained dogs only, please – Your dog should know how to sit, stay and heel. This will ensure it behaves safely when crossing roads or coming upon other people.
g Don’t allow wildlife chasing – Domestic dogs are an unnatural introduction into a wild animal’s habitat; chasing will cause great stress to the wild animal and potentially injury to your pet. You’re fighting instinct, but your dog should come back within two commands if called.
g Familiarize your dog with other dogs – Dogs meeting on a trail sometimes will fight, which can lead to injury. Be friendly to other hikers with dogs to let you pet know that there’s no threat.
g Keep on leash if all else fails – This is especially necessary if your dog has a habit of jumping on others, which can be a frightening experience for children unfamiliar with dogs, if it continually chases wildlife, or if it regularly wanders off.
g Pick up your dog’s waste on trail – Sure, it’s natural, but it’s also smelly and offensive. Kids (and even adults) easily can step in it, making it a health hazard.

Read more about day hiking with children in my Hikes with Tykes guidebooks.

Kids will love array of wildlife on trail at Black Gunnison of the Canyon National Park

Inner canyon of the Black Gunnison. Photo courtesy of
Black Canyon of the Gunnison NPS.

Sheer cliff drops nearly
half a mile in length

An array of wildlife and a canyon bottoms that almost never sees sunlight are in store for day hikers walking Warner Point Nature Trail in Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park.

The park follows 12 miles of the Black Canyon, a scenic gorge that drops as much as 2,250 feet from rim top to river below. Of the gorge’s two sides, the north rim entrance usually closes during winter, while the south rim is more developed.

The Warner Point Nature Trail sits on the south rim. To reach it, take Colo. Hwy. 347 into the park then turn left onto South Rim Road, following it all the way to its end, which is High Point. Several scenic vistas along the way are worth stopping at; the most dramatic by far overlooks the Painted Wall, Colorado’s tallest sheer cliff at nearly half a mile high.

Parking is available at High Point, and the trailhead begins due west of the lot. The easy to moderate trail is well maintained, as it is one of the park’s premier spots to day hike. While the trail looks like a series of roller coaster bumps, the elevation never changes by more than 13 feet. There are shady benches for resting along the way.

Riding thermals
The trail follows the canyon’s ridgeline, offering fantastic views of the Black Canyon. To the south is the San Juan Mountain Range, Uncompahgre Valley, and Bostwick Park. To the north are the West Elk Mountains. All the while, you’ll walk through a forest of mountain mahogany, serviceberry, pinyon pine, and juniper with oak flats dominating on the rim.

In addition to the scenery, expect to spot a variety of wildlife, which kids will love. Eagles, peregrine falcons and great horned owls often swoop over the canyon. On the ground, golden-mantled ground squirrels, least and Colorado chipmunks, and mountain cottontails are common. The yellow-bellied marmot often can be seen sunbathing on rocky ledges and outcroppings. Mule deer also are likely to be sighted, and don’t be surprised if you hear a coyote if arriving at pre-dawn to hike.

Bird watching in particular is good along the trail during spring and early summer. Blue grouse hang out in the sagebrush. Golden eagles and turkey vultures ride thermals along the canyon rims. The Cooper's hawk and red tailed hawk usually can be seen circling overhead as they hunt. In the morning, the canyon wren sings a graceful cascade of notes near Rock Point. Peregrine falcons, the world's fastest flyer, also can be spotted near the Painted Wall.

For kids who love reptiles, a variety of lizards inhabit the area. A smooth green or a Great Basin gopher snake sometimes will cross the trail. Garter snakes and striped whipsnakes are common in rock gardens and trailside thickets. None of the snakes are dangerous, however, as the trail is at too high of an altitude for venomous species.

Ghost of the Rockies
Less common but quite possible to see in fall and winter are elk and Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep. Look for elk in grassy clearings and the bighorn sheep on the rocky cliff sides.

An extremely rare sight is a mountain lion at dawn or dusk. The “ghost of the Rockies” sometimes is seen slipping into the woodline.

Trail’s end offers an impressive view of the Gunnison River and the Black Canyon at its deepest point, which is 2,722 feet below the rim. Thanks to the high cliff walls and narrow canyon, sunlight typically reaches the river bottom for only a few hours a day.

Because of the high elevations, always keep a close eye on children. They should not run off the trail or up to the canyon rim.

As the national park marks the line where the desert Colorado Plateau and the forested Rocky Mountains meet, expect changeable weather. It’s best to layer clothing and to pack rain gear. May and October offer the best times to visit.

Learn about other great national park day hiking trails in my Best Sights to See at America’s National Parks guidebook.