Gaze at breathtaking stars on remote trail

More than 2000 stars can be seen on a moonless night at White Sands
National Park. White Sands NPS photo.

Backcountry Camping Trail map. Click for larger version.

In most urban areas, artificial lighting and smog wash out the stars. Many people grow up only seeing a few of the brightest points in the night sky and never realizing the grandeur of the Milky Way that humankind has enjoyed for tens of thousands of years. But there still are places where one can see the night sky.

Among the darkest skies in America’s national parks are at New Mexico’s White Sands. For many who’ve never seen the night sky before, the sight is absolutely startling and awe-inspiring.

The park’s 2.2-mile Backcountry Camping Trail is mainly for backpackers, but day hikers can take it as well while still light out. If backpack camping is your thing, though, this is an ideal trail for stargazing.

To reach the trailhead, from U.S. Hwy. 70 enter the park on Dunes Drive. Take the loop almost full circle. Just before coming back to Dunes Drive, enter the parking lot on the right/west. Leave your vehicle there.

There’s no real trail – the ever-shifting sand prevents that. Instead, you’ll follow orange-topped posts from point to point. The trail markers are set up with a 0.22-mile long stem and then a loop from it.

Trail heads up and down the dunes. Desert grasses, mesquite and yucca grow in the lower sections between the dune crests. Plenty of expansive, awe-inspiring views of the dunefield are to be had.

But if you really want to be awed, camp out in the dunefield and look at the starry sky. The least amount of light pollution in the park is in the middle of the dunefield, so on a moonless night, you’ll be able to see more than 2000 stars.

The first delight is sunset. As the shadows deepen, the dunes’ brilliant white turns to tan then pink, purple, deep blue and finally gray as the sky becomes a black field of stars.

Stars by the season
What you’ll see in the night sky changes with each season.

Summer brings the spectacular band of the Milky Way, which is best seen on a moonless night. The Summer Triangle features the three bright blue stars, Vega, Altair and Deneb. Mid-August marks the Perseid Meteor Shower; park rangers usually hold a watch party for the meteor shower on another trail.

Autumn offers the Great Square of Pegasus, which rises in the northeastern sky at dusk. The Andromeda Galaxy is a fuzzy patch near the square. Autumn days are great for hiking the trail but nights in the high desert can be cold.

Winter delivers the constellation Orion and the sky’s brightest star, Sirius, which is only 8.6 light years from Earth. The red star Aldebaran is the winking eye in the constellation Taurus. While late winter can have pleasant days, nights will be very chilly.

In spring, two bright stars – orange Arcturus and blue Regulus – both are visible. The Big Dipper’s handle points toward Arcturus, which appears near dusk in the eastern sky. To the south, Regulus is in the constellation Leo’s front paw.

Stargazing pointers
Some quick tips for stargazing:
• Go on moonless nights – Reflecting sunlight to Earth, the moon can reduce the number of stars you’ll see. Check the moon phases to find the perfect evening to stargaze.
• Only use red lights – The human eyes needs at least 20 minutes to adjust to low light, Bright non-red lights delay that process and can wash out the stars.
• Layer your clothing – The dry air at the higher elevations can make for nippy nights, even in summer. You’ll probably need a sweatshirt and jacket on July evenings, though during the day you would roast alive wearing that.
• Watch your step – Animals come out at night, and you don’t want to accidentally step on a snake or off a dune. All will end your stargazing adventure.
• Bring a folding chair – One that you can lean back in will reduce neck strain. Sitting in one spot, even if you adjust the chair slightly to see different parts of the sky, will reduce the chances that you trample vegetation.
• Carry water – Many areas of the park have no running water. Even if not hiking, the dry air will cause you to feel parched.

Planning notes
A permit is required to backcountry camp at White Sands and can be purchased at the entry booths. They are given on a first come, first served basis. Only six people are allowed per backcountry campsite.

There is absolutely no shade, so be sure to don sunscreen, sunglasses and sunhat as well as bring plenty of water. If you can’t see the next trail marker – which can occur thanks to blowing sand (especially in spring when visibility can be reduced to a few feet) or after heavy winds knock down a trail marker, return to the trailhead.

Lastly, leashed dogs are allowed on the trail.